What do you all recommend for an open trailer size, 16' or 18'? Any helpful comments?

Rod

I personally prefer the 18' usually not much more then the 16'

If this is your 1st trailer you might want to consider flat vs. dove tail and wood vs. steel.

ron

Rod,

Some factors to consider are
1 what are you going to use it for the most
2 where are you going to store it
3 what size width is you garage door.

I just built one and made it 14 total length with a 2 foot dovetail and a little narrower so I could get it in and out of my single garage door easier. I also want to store it inside so thats why I made it shorter than most. I have pics and plans if you like.

Bill

18 foot with dove tail and slightly longer ramps.

Jim

I just bought a new tow vehicle, here is the trailer that I will be getting: www.texasrollback.net (http://www.texasrollback.net)

I would suggest an 18' trailer to give you the ability to trailer more kinds of cars - you never know what you might take home in the future smile.gif

Thomas

I have a 16 footer, would love to have a 18 footer, there is not much cost difference
just my opinion !!!

Rudy graemlins/waving.gif

Mine is an 18' dove tail, wooden deck with open center and 5' ramps. The ramps slide in from the back, this is much nicer than the side storage some models have. I really like it, tows good both empty and loaded. It is 84" between the fenders. I can get a full size car or pick up on with no trouble. It only cost $1500 new. Built in Texas by Parker.

http://www.citlink.net/~bowtie/photos/tlr2.jpg

Rod-

Almost a year ago, I bought a slightly used 16' flatdeck trailer from our beloved Team Chevelle member 66MYSTERYCHEVELLE (sometimes known as Mike Crown) :D for towing my '72 Chevelle SS to CB2003, plus other shows. The brand is a DEANDE, out of NJ, and there is a dealer up in Kingston, NH. Or, you could probably get them directly from the MFGR in NJ. VERY good quality, brakes on both axles, sealed wiring harness, quality light fixtures, last 3' of the trailer is open allowing you to get under your car to attach straps & binders around your rear axle much easier, D-rings, hidden ramps, 4" drop axles and removable fenders. In short, this trailer tows like a dream and is perfect for my heavy BBC equipped SS. Here's a picture just before leaving for a club show last September, loaded with my 71 Pro Touring Chevelle chassis:

http://www.71protouringchevelle.com/091103-01.JPG

If I were you, go for an 18" solid deck...gives more flexability if you ever happen to sow something longer like a truck or station wagon.

Also, pay close attention to the parts used as well as the steel frame type (box vs C-channel vs angle iron) as well as the number of crossmembers, electric brakes on two or 4 axles, etc.

Here's the completed trailer I built last year...17 1/2 foot deck, plus 30" off toolbox plus another 4 foot of tongue length. The beavertail is like 40" or so.

http://www.qis.net/~geislert/trailer_done_2.jpg

More pics here... http://www.qis.net/~geislert

Of the commercially available trailers out there, two of the nicer ones are the Deande (in NJ) as well as the Big Tex Diamondback (in Texas).

Thanks guys! smile.gif Thanks for the pics! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I'd love to build one but due to my schedule it would take me forever. I have plans to spend more time racing this year and if I built one it would take that much longer before I could get to the track. I might build one in the future and dress it out exactly how I want it. I think it would be fun. I love fabricating.

Rod-

Just remember one thing....you get what you pay for! 10SecBu built his own trailer, and the link shows many pix of how he put it together. It's one nice unit and he's proud of the finished product. If you're looking to buy one, be warned that the least expensive trailers will most likely be built to minimum standards. Cheap most always means "Cheap"! Good Luck.

Originally posted by Bomber '67:
I just bought a new tow vehicle, here is the trailer that I will be getting: www.texasrollback.net (http://www.texasrollback.net)Those Texas Rollbacks are nice. I'm between their product and an H&H Trailer. I've got to make a purchase within the next month.

Just remember one thing....you get what you pay for! This is very true so determine your needs before buying. I have a friend in the rental business so I was able to tow several different makes of trailers all built differently. The units with C channel frames were heavier than those made of square tubing and both of them weighed more than my trailer. Mine is a light duty unit that I tow with a 1/2 ton truck. I have had 7000 lbs on it with no trouble from the trailer it was a little bit to much for the truck. Mine is made of heavy angle iron frame, crossmembers and tongue. I have put 20k miles on it and hauled everything from furniture to motorcycles to Cadillacs and 3/4 ton pick ups with no problems. I ordered mine with a coupler that requires a 2 5/16" ball and I use a 1" shank on the standard hitch and an 1 1/4" shank on the load distributing hitch. It has breakaway brake actuator which is mandatory in a lot of states, check the laws where you live and will be towing. The axles will have rating tags on them and it is worth the effort to crawl under and check them before you buy and don't let some salesman convince you that 2 5000 lb axles make it capable of hauling 10,000 lbs. :rolleyes:

I recommend a an 18 ft. That way if someone for some reason fails to stop they hit the trailer and not the backside of your chevelle. I have a Diamond C 18ft with the beaver tail. It weighs about 2k empty. I love my trailer smile.gif it has been great. Mine is bright red but here is a factory pic:
http://www.diamondctrailers.com/prod_imgs/12CHS_L18.jpg


Image courtesy of http://www.diamondctrailers.com

I also have the 18' diamond C "SHOWCAR" trailer. I like it a lot. The box was added later as a place to house my winch and keep my tiedown straps.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/hoffbug/carpic.gif

1hot67, the H&H, www.hhtrailer.com (http://www.hhtrailer.com) , is another bitchin trailer - I especially like their stainless steel version. I decided on the Texas Rollback for two main reasons: 1)an aluminum Texas Rollback is more than 500 lbs lighter than the stainless H&H, 2)The Texas Rollback is about $2,000 easier on my thin wallet.

If you do go with the H&H I'm fairly certain that you will never wonder if there is a better built commercially available open trailer - their trailers are beautifully crafted.

Thomas

I changed my mind on the trailer manufacturer, and decided on an 18-foot Big Tex Car Hauler. It's made pretty nice, has a 42-inch tall aluminum rock guard, 5-foot TS reinf. diamond plate ramps, and is under my $3k threshold out the door.

Question: are brakes on both axles critical? Any benefit to hydraulic brakes as opposed to the electric ones? Any other options you have that you cannot live without?

Originally posted by 1hot67:
Question: are brakes on both axles critical? Any benefit to hydraulic brakes as opposed to the electric ones? Any other options you have that you cannot live without? Brakes on both axles are nice but I don't think it helps much until you get up into an enclosed trailer due to the extra weight. By hydraulic brakes I assume you mean the surge type. The idea of the load having to push the actuator just seems like it is complicating the braking. I towed a U-Haul and when going downhill and braking it was scary. When I attempted to slow down, the trailer would overreact. When I released the brakes on the truck it would also release the trailer brakes and then the speed would pick up to fast and the cycle would repeat. One other problem a friend had was backing his trailer uphill. The force of going uphill backwards would apply the brake. I rigged up a normally open soleniod valve to his back up lights so when he put the truck in reverse it would block fluid flow to the trailer brakes. It solved the problem. I prefer electric brakes. With the controllers they have now all settings can be dialed in for what ever the load or conditions.

Can one you with the diamond c trailer give me a idea on the cost of the 18 ft trailer. Thanks

Originally posted by 270ss:
Can one you with the diamond c trailer give me a idea on the cost of the 18 ft trailer. Thanks I bought mine for $2500
BTW Minnesota and some other states require brakes on all axles.

PA also requires all 4 wheel brakes ..
I vote for a 18 ft full deck... Mine has been used for more things then you can shak a stick at..

Home furnishing move..
8 x 12 Shed Move
14 ft Boat Move
Crank up Towers
Building Meterial.
Bags of Coal 2000 lb ea. (2) at a time
Skids of Wood pellets. ( Neighbor )
and many more..

Thats why I vote for a full deck..

I agree on the full deck trailer. The Big Tex 18 footer is $2300 + options.