When does the wetsanding end ? http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif

Man my hands are getting tired. Hope the end product is worth it!

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71 Ragtop, finally under reconstruction!
MCC #347, TC (Gold) #174
N3JHV@bellatlantic.net

When you see blood or the finish is flat,Whichever comes first.

I like that http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

This isn't even the final color sanding, just the primer and the door, hood, trunk jams.

Were supposed to be cutting in the jams tonite, but my painter (cousin) had to go some company meeting. Hope to do it tomorrow nite. I gotta figure out how to start posting pictures-the before v/s after should be good!
All's I have to say is these body guys earn every freaking penny they get, and then some!

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71 Ragtop, finally under reconstruction!
MCC #347, TC (Gold) #174
N3JHV@bellatlantic.net

Bless You, Wet sanding primer. I tend to save the for the clear coat. what grit are you using to block it down ?
Have fun.

Wayne
ACES 1556
TCG 186

Sid.. Blocking out the primer makes for a smoother straighter overall finish.. So keep it up.. And I'd be willing too be he's using 500 grit wet http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

When I read this I started to shake, doing my over four year resto what really sticks in my mind is the sanding, and yes it does pay off in the end, I remember wanting to give up after days of it, but with help from a friend that does this stuff day in and day out, we keep at it, sanding, spraying a light dusting of krylon over primer, sanding, primering, krylon, primer, sanding, etc.,etc., and then there was the clear coat!

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www.homestead.com/prostreet69/1969resto.html (http://www.homestead.com/prostreet69/1969resto.html)

Yes-500 grit wet. Uugh.

And yes, we're doing the primer w/guide coat applied. I'm not even into the main body area , just the jams right now. Since I'm not removing the doors, it was the jamming my fingers in around the hinges. Didn't help that the 1st day I started on that I picked up a metal splinter in the tip of my index finger http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif

Looking forward to seeing the color on the car. THEN comes the clear coat sanding.

Prostreet-Nice site!!!


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71 Ragtop, finally under reconstruction!
MCC #347, TC (Gold) #174
N3JHV@bellatlantic.net

[This message has been edited by Sid Coleman (edited 10-09-2001).]

Sid not too mention that your getting vast knowledge and experiance of the body contours and where you might break through the clear.. It will prove beneficial in the final sanding!

All I remember is that it took WEEKS for the skin to thicken up on my hands again.
I could read a newspaper by touch.


wet sanded primer, base color and clear.
Then buff, buff, buff.




[This message has been edited by SS_Dave (edited 10-09-2001).]

You're not done even when your fingers, hands, and arms are wrinkled like prunes. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Sid, after reading through this I thought I would bring up a few things. First of all dont let that primer sit over night after you sanded it, as it tends to seal itself back up, not allowing proper adhesion of the next coat. If you let it sit over night just run over it with a red scotchbrite pad to reopen the pores in the primer so the next coat has something to stick too.

You are making it harder on yourself by blocking out the first stages of primer with 500 wetsand. Use something around 180 dry on a long board or something similar in shape to the contours of the body and knock it down. Use the 500 grit on the last coat before color. I dont know how many different times you plan on doing the prime and guide coat then sand and reprime, but many times its around 5 or 6. Sand the fisrt three coats with 180 grit then the next coat I like to move up and use around 320 to remove the deep sand scratches. The 5 coat is when I move up to wetsanding with 500 or 600 grit.

Block sanding a car isnt tough or hard, but I do it day in and day out for a living. Just got to use the right grit of paper to make life easier on yourself.

I must have screwed up, I didn't "wet" sand anything! I did block sand with progressively finer grits down to 600 using a guide coat to see the progress. Dry sanding is messy enough.

I didn't wet sand when color sanding either. I used 1500 3M finishing film on my electric da sander and in a couple of hours I was through with the sanding and started compounding. With the finishing film dry the fine dust acts as a guide coat and I could see the slight orange peel disappear.

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Elcaminos are special!
I'd rather walk around with a Chevrolet hubcap in my hand than drive a Ford


work in progress
Big James Elky(AKA Ol Paint) (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Big%20James4XL-Ol%20Paint1.jpg)
www.chevelles.com/showroom/workgoeson1.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/workgoeson1.jpg)
www.chevelles.com/showroom/newpaint1.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/newpaint1.jpg)

I think thats what I was trying to get across to Sid. I just finished shooting my 64-rag on labor day week. B-4 final sanding there were 3 block down-gide coat sandings . one 180 one 220 and 320 dry.
The last was 2 coats of uro-prime no gide and sanded 480 dry. A seal coat, two base coats and three clear coats. Color sanded
1200 the 1500 wet. and buff.
Their are 100 ways to skin a cat and paint a car. So to get it to that finial prep stage.
go in stages 180 or 220 the 320 then mybe 500
but do not do the finial sanding from the begining with 500 it's a DRAG .

Wayne

No guys, I got it http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

My cousin is the head guy at the local body shop, and is directing my efforts. So-with much groaning, this is getting done right.

I've worked up to the 500 grit range-this is just the door jams, hood & trunk. We sprayed them tonight. Tomorrow I get to put on the weatherstripping and we begin the sanding on the body. I've already done it up to 180, so next I'll go over it with 320, then the 500 wet. Then paint this weekend! I'm starting to get excited-that paint looks so good on the jams!
We're using Glasurit (sp?) paint with a clear coat over it. Wish I could figure out how to post an image-took the digital to the shop today http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

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71 Ragtop, finally under reconstruction!
MCC #347, TC (Gold) #174
N3JHV@bellatlantic.net

Sounds like were all on the same page.
It's hard in written word to get the full meaning across, but for me it's a real challenge. SRI. as for the Digital picture posting thing. UGH GL. Seems us HAMS are not
as technically inclined as we thought.
after you figure out how to post digital pics
please let me know !!

GL the weekend

Wayne W3EA
ACES 1556
TCG 186

OK, let's see if this works-thanks Wayne for giving me a challenge!
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/son_help.jpg

Well, got 1 file to upload, other one not showing up for some reason-will keep trying.

[This message has been edited by Sid Coleman (edited 10-10-2001).]

Sid your much younger than i thought! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif

roger on the younger then I thought. It's no wounder you get tired sanding, those little arms must go three times to equal one of mine !
On a lighter note: If I judge by how long it take me to finish a project, You'll be driving age by the time it's done.

Wayne
PS: see you found out how at least, to upload one pic. OM

Yeah-went to the members only area on the main page and figured it out from there. Too bad I'm limited to 100K-or maybe that's a good thing http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

My son has been pestering the heck out of me to help with the project. I bring him with me when I can. Only problem is that since he's only 4, he stays interested for about 10 minutes, then wants to start playing with all the other stuff around, and I can't get my work done. Am running on a tight schedule to get the prep work done-car's either getting painted this weekend, or it'll be at least 3 weeks, due to the scheduling at the body shop.
Wayne-you need some pointers with the pics-let me know.
73s

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71 Ragtop, finally under reconstruction!
MCC #347, TC (Gold) #174
N3JHV@bellatlantic.net