Method for sanding with a long board... is this right? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Method for sanding with a long board... is this right?


YenkoChevelle69
Jul 19th, 04, 7:32 PM
OK, I finally got my duraglass all d/a ed down and on the driver's side where I wanted it. I then put on some Rage gold for the top coat. It sure sands easy. Anyway, with the way the quarter has the body line in it, I can't sand left to right and come out with anything that doesn't look like crap. It makes a groove and the body line is wrong etc. What I have started doing is.... if I can explaing it right....

I hold the long board to where it is going east to west and then to down the bondoed area diagonally.

Like this
\\\\ and after I go from the door jamb to the tail light cap I then do this //// the other way.

It seems to be working pretty well. Is this the correct method to do this? The 1/4 is pretty wavy where the welds are.

baddbob71
Jul 19th, 04, 11:29 PM
If I understood your description correctly, yes you're working the board correctly. Work the panel from one end to the other then back in the opposite direction, It will look like this XXXXXXX haha, When you move the board east to west in a straight line your edges will cut in making the grooves you already mentioned so always move the board on a slight angle. The smaller the angle the better you'll make use of the length of the board if that makes any sense. In othe words don't make your strokes at a 45 degree angle from east to west but rather 20 or 15 degrees would be better. I just finished up a blocking job where I ran the entire length of the car back and forth with my 32inch board and 18inch where needed. Man is it straight! and perfect flush fitting panels, hopefully the work will pay off in trophies for my customer. Also use pvc tubing or large dowel, broom handles etc. for the concave areas and pattern your strokes at an angle just like with the board. Happy sandin!

YenkoChevelle69
Jul 20th, 04, 12:55 AM
Hey Bob, thanks for the reply. I hoped I was doing it correctly. It's gonna take forever to get straight due to some warping. There's a low area that is whipping me. Oh well. I'll get it as straight as I can and then metal glaze it.

70mousejob
Jul 20th, 04, 2:38 AM
Just a little tip, one of my biggest problems when I began my filler work was being too aggressive with the board. Let the sandpaper do the cutting, and don't strong arm it. The other thing that helped me was getting rid of the piece of dirt sanding board I had.
Hope this helps!!

Zman
Jul 20th, 04, 2:48 AM
Another little tip:
If you have a hard line, (sharp) pull a piece of masking tape on top of the line. Guide coat, and block sand up to the line. When it's pretty close, pull the tape off, and pull a new piece along the bottom of the line, guide coat, and sand down to it. You'll get a nice straight line every time. graemlins/thumbsup.gif