Can anyone tell me if I should sleeve my # 8 cylinder or should I go 60 th over on my 327. This is
the choice I must make . Now if I sleeve it I only have to bore 30 th over. Now I'm going to pump
it to 325 or 350 hp. And I will run it hard on the street. There will be some fun nights at the drags.
All bottom is forged. Thanks. Dave C.

If it is an original block for the car and you don't want to loose it, go ahead.If not, does the cost in sleeving, compare to finding another block and getting the machine work done.All the aluminum ZL1 engines had steel liners,I don't think you have to worry if it is done correctly.

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' 72 Malibu project ACES # 1282 Team Member # 427
' 70 C-10 Pickup

If I read this right you have one bad cylinder (#8). All the rest are OK, but they all need to be bored.
If thats the case have #8 sleeved and then bore the block to .030 over. There is nothing wrong with sleeves in blocks that are going to see 350 to 400 HP.
Sleeves will distort the cylinder next it. So make sure and install the sleeve first and then bore the block. Your engine shop should do that automaticaly but its good to ask.
They even make sleeves that are made to see wet surface (as in hole in the side of the cylinder into the water jacket)

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Lynn Robinson
Pacheco, Calif.
64 Malibu SS, 71 Camaro SS
"Just Hit the Ball and Touch em All"
Team Chevelle Member #246

Can 327 blocks go 60 over safely? I donnow, if so, bore it big. Sleeve it only if it's a numbers matching deal so you can get 1 more rebuild if you need to.

[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 10-27-99).]

The aluminum block motors come with sleeves from the factory, and I have one in my motor and it runs great as a street/strip car.

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66 Big-Block Chevelle Houston, TX ACES#3321

It sounds like you just hurt the #8 cylinder,if that is the case i wouldn't think twice the sleeve will work fine.I f the cylinder is cracked have the block pressure tested after the sleeve is installed for a little insurance.Where I work we do alot of sleeving,will be good to go. John

Just out of curiosity why would you need to sleeve one did a rod bend and mess up the cylinder or what? i am not sure still new to this.

Dave,
I would not be afraid of a sleeve as long as it is done properly. Personally, I would just bore it .060 and keep on going. The older blocks had plenty of "meat" in them and there is no problem going to .060. The only disadvantage is that will make any future overbores impossible.
Hope this helps,

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100

Question for the professional machinists--just for info, if you have bored 0.060 over, could you sleeve it later and go back to standard bore? or +0.030? How much over standard bore is the sleeve OD? (thinking about the '65 327/250HP engine).

Thanks,

JJ

JJ Just a thought each bore would cost about a 100 bones. Don't think worth it. But would like to
know like you. I'd say it probably could be done.

The sleeve only costs about $10-$20 that is a hefty installation fee. When my father worked for a local rebuilder they sleeved blocks all the time. It was normal practice with big blocks, they would put 8 sleeves in a big block before they would junk it. Sleeving will probably become more common as it gets harder to find blocks.

Robert Yea that's what they quoted me, 120$$$ for the job. Must me 20 for sleeve and 100 for job,
must of misunderstood, had it backwards. Dave C.

Dave,
Sleeves come in two common thicknesses. The thin ones are 3/32 or about .093 thick. The thick ones are 1/8" (.125) We generally use the thin ones for blocks like yours, where it is just scarred up real bad and the thick ones for blocks that are cracked. If you bore the block .060, you could put 8 sleeves in it later to go back to standard, but it would be pretty expensive and really not worth it except for a very rare numbers matching deal. We get $100 a sleeve labor, plus the price of the sleeve, usually around $20 so it would get real expensive !
Heres another thought...if you really want to be able to drive the motor hard, how about finding another block, and putting yours in the corner so it wont get hurt. 327 / 350 blocks are still pretty easy to find and you would not have to worry about hurting your original motor.

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100

I once worked on a project to study piston temperatures with different types of sleeves and the best type was NO SLEEVE. Just go the next oversize and have a good engine. A sleeve is the best choice for salvaging a treasured engine, but hold off for now. The effect on balancing of having one oversize piston is not all that big, especially for a street driven engine.

I have never heard of having one piston in any engine larger than the others???
I for one wouldn't go there.
Not only is it going to be hard on the efficiency of the engine but buying parts is going to be costly.

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Lynn Robinson
Pacheco, Calif.
64 Malibu SS, 71 Camaro SS
"Just Hit the Ball and Touch em All"
Team Chevelle Member #246

parts for a 350 are soo much cheaper why not just get a 350? if you want the #'s then just save the 327 for later but for a heafty street racer cruzer i'd just get a 350 compare parts for a 327 and 350 in summitt the rebuild kit alone is about $100 cheaper for the 350 i believe (that's why im building a 355 and yanking the 307 in mine). just my $.02

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members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/chevelle9.jpg (http://members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/chevelle9.jpg) members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/350.jpg (http://members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/350.jpg)
John Krenn
1970 malibu SS look-a-like well kinda
307/200-4r (soon to be 355 or 383)

Ft.Worth, Tx

Coach: the one cylinder oversize is done from time to time if only one cylinder has had a disaster and all the others are OK. Why use up the overbore metal in 7 cylinders that are fine ?? Stuff like a lost wristpin circlip (not a Chevy problem) can happen in one cylinder and leave the others in good shape.