View Full Version : Measuring Crank Shaft Runout at Bellhousing


kjett
May 7th, 99, 6:23 PM
Hi,
I am in the process of installing a new transmission in my 66 SS. Previously my car had a Muncie 4Spd with OEM bell housing. I am now installing a Tremec TKO 3550 5 Spd with a Lakewood Scattershield. The instructions that came with the bell housing state that a dial indicator should be used to measure the crank-shaft runout at the bell housing.

In an attempt to do things by the book I purchased a dial indicator with a magnetic base hoping to align the bell housing properly. The bell housing and dial indicator both came with very limited instructions in terms of how to test with a dial indicator. Having never used a dial indicator before I found myself frustrated quickly. The dial indicator gauge has a multi-adjustable telescoping base so it should work.

I bought the transmission from Forte Racing and they said while not absolutely necessary it is generally a good idea to check the tolerences as bell housings are cast (as opposed to forged) and not always true.

I'm curious, is this absolutely necessary or should I trust that everything will fall within the prescribed tolerances?

If I need to do this can anyone offer suggestions on positioning the dial indicator and taking proper readings?

Thanks for any help you can offer, I have always received good information here before.

Thanks,

-Ken Jett

BillK
May 7th, 99, 7:29 PM
Ken,
I ran a Lakewood bellhousing for years in my Chevelle without a problem, but I may have been lucky. Since you bought the tools to do it right, here is an attempt at a drawing to show you how to do it correctly. This is what you should see if you are looking at the rear of the bellhousing: members.thebee.net/bkoustenis/dial.jpg (http://members.thebee.net/bkoustenis/dial.jpg)
I actually mount the magnetic base of the indicator on the flywheel, rather than the crankshaft. It is a bigger flatter surface and the magnet seems to hold better. Once you get it set up like the picture, turn the motor over with a socket on the front damper bolt, and watch the indicator to see how much runout you have. If it is real bad, you will have to get the adjustable dowel pins to correct it. What you are really measuring is not "runout" as much as incorrect positioning of the bellhousing dowel pins on the block. Before you begin, take some emery cloth and smoothe off the inner surface of the bellhousing hole, where the indicator will be running, it will keep it from jumping around to much. A little light grease does not hurt either.This is a lot easier with two people, especially if you are doing it in the car. One person turns the crank, while the other watches the indicator. Hope this helps, if you have any other questions, feel free to ask !


------------------
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md


[This message has been edited by BillK (edited 05-07-99).]

Jeff K
May 7th, 99, 10:05 PM
Ken,

I scanned some pages for ya that show pictures of how the dial indicator should be setup. One sheet is from my Centerforce clutch and the other sheet came with my bellhousing.

http://www.athenet.net/~chevelle/align01.jpg
http://www.athenet.net/~chevelle/align02.jpg

Best Regards,
Jeff

Tom Mobley
May 7th, 99, 11:37 PM
kjett,
BillK has it right, what you actually want to measure is not the crank runout but whether or not the hole in the bellhousing is centered on the crank. The point is to have the front shaft of the tranny lined up dead nuts center into the crank. I've seen these holes be a few thou out of round also, this is not a showstopper IMO.

Tom

kjett
May 8th, 99, 4:15 PM
Thanks to everyone who replied. This is a very friendly/useful web site. Long live Chevrolet....!!!

tom3
May 8th, 99, 5:30 PM
Kjett; When you get this installed, give up an update on the install. One major item is whether the trans hits the floor. These trans are pretty tall. Any big troubles moving back the crossmember? Thanks. tom