I have a 67 malibu that I have done a "frame off" on. I blasted the underbody and por-15'd it. Powdercoated frame and lots of aluminum and powdercoated parts as well. Very clean. Now I am deciding to take the body off a second time...I was rushed the first time and didn't get a chance to replace plumbing. I still have all of the paint/body work and interior to do completely. Underbody and firewall are finished though. So now...do I change my plumbing and bolt the body back onto the frame to take it into the body shop or do I weld up a rolling jig and take the body shell into the body shop? The later being more work to deliver, the first being more work to mask and cleanup. Either way is work for me and probably about the same amounts. My question is...what would the body shop prefer? Would I get a better price and better quality of work either way? Any suggestions are appreciated. I probably won't pull the body off again for a few weeks at least and I won't be taking it to a body shop probably until next year...if that depending on what happens in this country between now and then. Anyway thanks.

------------------
67 Malibu Road Race Conversion (http://members.aol.com/jrhines96)

Jeff,

I would call them and find out if they will charge more for a body jig job than with the frame. Although I wouldn't base my final decision on this. I can almost guarantee that your detailed frame will not stay that way if you send it to the bodyshop. You will probably end up with over spray on different areas.

I have heard of people taking a sheet of plastic (wide kind used for home foundations) and sandwiching it between the body and frame to protect the deatiled frame. This way no overspray can get on anything. The problem is the bodyshop will probably not like dealing with it.

I would send just the body so my previous work didn't get screwed up. If you can easily make a jig which accomodates mini spare size tires, that would be best. Also make it steerable, the shop shouldn't have a prblem with this. Actually it should make their job easier, less masking and overspray issues. You can also touch-up the bottom if anything gets on it.

------------------
Brian TC#1092, ACES#4374
---------------------------------------------------------
1964 Malibu SS Convertible (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/65elcamino64.jpg) (Garage Queen) Before Restoration (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/65elcamino64a.jpg)
1965 El Camino (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/65elcamino1b.jpg) (Daily Driver) Before Restoration (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/65elcamino1a.jpg)
1981 Corvette (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/65elcamino81.jpg) (Sidelined for repairs)

This is the kind of jig/dolly I had in mind. Very steerable since it rides on casters. (Not my website but sloan is a very good source for used chevelle/camino parts)
http://www.sloans64-72.com/restorations/janice/janice2.htm

------------------
67 Malibu Road Race Conversion (http://members.aol.com/jrhines96)

What kind of body work are you talking about? Do you need to replace quarters or floors etc or does it need to be stripped and repainted? If your car needs panel replacement a jig or dolly wont be a good idea. The body can flex and twist if you have it on a dolly while replacing panels. The frame provides the needed support to keep the body in its original position. The dolly would do just fine if your car needs just to be repainted. Coming from someone who works at a body shop I personally wouldnt want to work on a car sitting on dolly. They sit to high and can be dangerous for the body man and the car. I would send the car on the frame and use what 65elcamino suggested that heavy plastic sheeting. Wrap the frame is this plastic and tape all the seems shut even wrap a second time. I do this on all my personal cars and yet to get overspray on my frames. Tell the shop about your detailed frame and they more then likely will take the extra effort to mask it so overspray doesnt get on the frame.

Jeff.. they make this stuff called spray mask, liquid rubber like coating that washes off with water.. if you coat the underside with plastic and this stuff you should have very little clean up labor afterwords consisting of a good washing.. A good body shop will mask your car off anyway. that extra precaution should be good for you.. however, talk with the guy doing the paint.. one thing too remember once it's painted and you are re hanging the body and panels scratches and other stuff is VERY possible... Good Luck..

I had great results laying down a sheet of plastic over the completed chassis, and dropping the body down on top of it. I taped up the plastic to fully seal off the chassis. Absolutely NO overspray after painting. My painter told me he didn't care whether or not the body was on or off the frame--same price. Big price!

------------------
Tony Nausieda
1970 SS 396-4??hp
Frame-off Resto, just painted, awaiting final reassembly.
NOT stock but looks it!

Thanks 65....I don't understand what you mean about the smaller spare tire thing but the plastic sheet sounds like a good idea.

sevt....the body work I am talking about is basic straightening and smoothing for paint prep. No panels really need replaced except hood and maybe front fenders. I want to just get the bodywork done and a primer shot as a first step. That way I can finish up other work and get it on the test track before the final paint goes on. My thinking was to split the body/frame. Put the body on a jig and then finish framework, buy a rearend and get the tires/wheels. Then get basic bodywork done and take it to a shop in rialto that does aluminum work to have custom blockouts made for heater, blower motor, and wiper holes as well as a custom dash bezel made. Then I will be ready to reassemble for the test track. Then I would finish up interior and paint. That said, to send in for final paint on a dolly would require me to split the body fromt the frame a third time. The dolly to body shop scenario I was referring to was for the body work and a primer/sealer shot. I would also have them shoot the jambs, hard to reach places and interior with a color coat. Body flex is a non-issue. I had the car hanging from cables from the ceiling the last time the body was off. It is an extremely solid shell from the desert.

normie...same thing with sevt...I think I misled you guys a little on accident....I am talking about bodywork and primer shot....not final paint. I agree that I would not want the final paint to be done on a dolly merely because of the scratch potential during re-assembly...although the head is swimming with fresh ideas for a cheap and easy system to remove and re-assemble a body to frame.

I think I will go with the plastic sheet idea when I do my final paint but am still undecided on how the bodywork will be done. I will build a body jig anyway because I will have the body off for a while and don't want to hang it from the ceiling again. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif looking back, that could have been considered dangerous here in earthquake country. I am leaning toward finding a bodyshop that will do the bodywork/primer shot on the dolly, then reassembling for test track then resplit to put the plastic sheet in place for the final paint after all testing bugs are worked out. Sounds like a decent plan to me. I'll let you know in 6-12 months when I finally get around to looking into bodyshops.

My main concern on this whole idea was the bodyshops personal preference. I was more looking for feedback from paint/body people on how they prefer to work on restores. sevt gave some good feedback in that regard...my thoughts from that....make sure the jig puts the body at standard ride hight so the height isn't an issue and make sure it is extremely safe. I think I can handle those obsticles. Thanks again and I am still open to anyones suggestions or ideas...thanks!!!!

------------------
67 Malibu Road Race Conversion (http://members.aol.com/jrhines96)

Using the dolly for bondo and primer will be fine. As for ride height on the dolly make it so it sits slightly higher then normal. Moveable is a big concern at shops if it cant move most will not take it in. Make sure the dolly is safe and strudy, make it at least as wide as the car and long. Most dollys I have seen provide support on only the front and the back of the car. Just to be safe weld an extra support bar in the middle to support the middle of the car. Especailly if the car will sit on it for an extended time period. I have seen cars that sat on dollys, then when layed down on the frame again, the car was bowed down in the middle. But the best advice is ask your shop who is going to do your work, my shop does things differnetly then the shop just three blocks down the road as will the shops in your area. Good luck with your project...Eric