Tom G
Aug 22nd, 01, 9:12 AM
Does POr15 rust preventive paint have to be top coated with the chasis paint or is it ok to leave as is. I did my frame and some parts.
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: POR 15 Jimmy P Aug 22nd, 01, 9:54 AM It's UV sensitive, so it should be top coated unless it's staying in the garage forever. I know your frame won't get much sunlight exposure (hopefully no rollovers) http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif but it will fade eventually. I'd topcoat with chassis paint. AlMyPal39 Aug 22nd, 01, 10:34 AM I think Por-15 makes a UV protected paint now. If you're worried about UV breakdown on the frame, I'd worry more about the roof damage http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif I don't think you'll get UV breakdown under the car. hilljack Aug 22nd, 01, 11:38 AM I was not going to topcoat my frame but after sitting outside for two weeks it really started to fade. I topcoated with por-15 chassis black. just make sure to read all the post on proper prep otherwise you will be in a world of #hit! I don't recommend por anymore unless you are painting right on rust. John Chief Aug 24th, 01, 3:27 PM Hey hilljack, What do you recommend for my frame. I bought it from Desertdogs in AZ and it is virtually rust free. I can remove what surface rust is on it with my finger and spit. I was planning on blasting it because of the existing surface rust and original paint won't look good when done! What do you think?/ Mike ------------------ "I am striving for perfection....I'm just not there yet! http://hotred66ss.homestead.com JeffK Aug 24th, 01, 8:37 PM If you do POR sandblasted parts, be sure to use Marine Clean and Metal Prep exactly as the directions state, and you should have no problems. I've never painted anything with rust on it, always freshly blasted parts. ------------------ JeffK ACES #01510 Team Chevelle Gold #72 496/Richmond 6-Speed JeffK@chevelles.com Jeff's Chevelle Page (http://www.72chevelle.com) MAXX2 Aug 25th, 01, 9:55 AM We used POR-15 Silver in the area where the dash meets the cowl (Removed the actual metal dash). This area had rusted from a leaking windshield. Sandblasted it, then Marine Clean, then Metal Prep., 2 coats of POR-15. "PERFECTO". Beadblasted the body mount hardware (All), then went thru the same procedure as above. "PERFECTO". The other day, we did an experiment with one of the extra washers we had coated. Tried beadblasing it in our blaster cabinet. Guess What!? It won't come off! Therefore, POR Products Must Be "PERFECTO"! By the way, we wish we would have removed the metal dash before we had the body beadblasted. It saves "TIME"! Hope this helps. Team Members Forever. Richard and Judy White, MAXX2 ------------------ hilljack Aug 25th, 01, 6:38 PM Mike, I do like Por-15 and I have used it a couple times. Sometimes with good results, sometimes not! Finally I had to ask myself why do they keep on telling people to paint over rust? If you look on the can of por they show painting over rust! If you talk to the rep from Por, he will tell you how great it is painting over rust. After a while you start thinking it might not be a half bad idea, then you come to your senses and strip to bare metal! Now you have adhesion problems, that's why the rep will tell you again and again rough cast or rust!!!!! After talking with a rep from Por, he basically stated that they have had some adhesion problems even when following directions. At least that's how I understood it! Por is very expensive after you buy all the required stuff and a lot of work to brush everything, but it flows real nice and looks great until it see's the sun, then it starts to degrade rapidly!! If the standard por was UV compatible then I would say great!!! WOO!! HOO!! That's how they get ya! Then when you walking out the door they bring out the top coat! Por is like a plastic coat it can lift over the entire surface and collect moisture rusting from underneath and you won't even know it. You can speak to the rep about this one, he will confirm it. Ask him what happens if you accidently sand through, and he will tell you to make sure you Por that area before top coating otherwise moisture will get in and lift. In the end I think por is great if you have a rusty old frame or floor pan but if you are going to take it down to bare metal I just don't see the advantage to using it! I would go with a good quality paint and primer. I would do a search on painting frames if you have access to a air compressor if not just make sure to follow all the directions when using Por. Good Luck John John ccrider Aug 25th, 01, 9:36 PM Hilljack - could not have said it better myself. I have come to the same conclusions about POR - expensive, a mess to work with, and no UV tolerance. I have used POR several times and unless (as Hilljack stated) you are painting over rust, what's the point. The POR top coat is even worse, my painter and I could never get the stuff to work so the POR dealer gave us a refund. He told us they have the same problems with the top coat. For my money - sand, or blast it to bare metal, use a good two part epoxy primer and then paint it with a good quality paint. This is not intended to be a knock on POR, they make good stuff but it's designed for a specific application (painting over rust) and not for bare metal applications. ------------------ Thanks, ccrider TC #:267 ACES #:3379 66 Chevelle SS My Chevelle (http://home.att.net/~mpusley) | ||