What has anyone used to cover the seam when replacing the trunk pan with the 3 piece solution? Obviously if you welf it, it will warp really bad. SO, if you make a few spot welds down the seams and then use something to hide the seams, that wouldn't look to bad. I'm not convinced that bondo is the way to go there, had anyone used something else?

Thanks

I mean weld, not welf, sorry...

Weld them solid.
If you are worried about warping the metal then use countersunk rivets smile.gif

If you take your time and ONLY weld about a 1/4 area at a time warpage is very small.
Anyway the three piece pans when I did my last 70, the seem was over braces. Cut both panels so they lay on the brace and weld them shut. Basically you are doing a butt weld but using the braces as a backer...Eric

Where are you located in Denver? I recently replaced two of the three pans in my 67. They need to be welded continuously, but stitch welded to prevent warping. As mentioned the seams lay over the braces. The welds can be dressed and if done correctly, will never be seen.

I live in Arvada. Yea, these 3 piece pans really suck in my opinion, I did one in my 66 and it fit much better. It's actaully the same one for the 64 but in all reality, it's much different. There are ribs where there shouldn't be ribs, but I'll figure out something when I get there I suppose. The gauge of metal they use for those pieces is really too lite, it would be nice if it was a little heavier.

Just curious, what supplier did you buy them from?

I bought them from Year One, I've looked around at everyone elses and they all seem to be the same, except the ones that come in black.

I bought the three piece pan from NPD because it covered the most metal for the dollar. When I did mine I lapped it for the added strength rather than butt welding it. When I did mine I got the pans as close as I could possibly and it came our really well. I decided to use Duraglass to cover the seams because the fiber in the compound adds strength too and it covers the seams well.

http://www.chevelles.net/tristate/members/tom_baygents_images/DSC_1033.JPG

Im very happy with the way it turned out and you can make it look good too it just takes time and good metal to start the welding. I was having the toughest time trying to get it to fit because I was running into a lot of other problems also. I had my wheel wells out and my body bushings all around the car were bad and rotted through making aligning the pans very difficult. My point is if you have a solid start and the other problem straightened out it does come out well. I started on this when I was 16 and if I can do it I know you can to. Take your time and lots of measurements and don’t make the mistake I did and remove more metal than you have to and get to many things out at once (I had wheel wells out, drop-offs, trunk pan, rear seat pan, divider (what a mess)).

Duraglass works good rather than body filler because the bondo may flex more and cause cracks while the duraglass is stronger with the added fiber.

Another advantage to the 3 piece pan is you have a little bit of wiggle room and with these old cars it helps.

Good luck,
Tom Baygents

Badcbr,

I went with the two piece trunk from NPD and had great results. I spot welded and then filled with milled fiberglass. On the underside, I sealed with seam sealer. Since it's hidden by the fuel tank, I didnt have to worry about making it pretty, just waterproof. I was worried about being able to still see the welds/filler so I bought a trunk mat. But, after spraying a few coats of spatter paint, you couldnt tell that repairs had even been made. I'll still use the mat since I have it. Scot

Trunk Pics (http://photos.yahoo.com/thekrkndls@sbcglobal.net)