fuel tank leak - POR, rad shop or new? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: fuel tank leak - POR, rad shop or new?

Jul 14th, 03, 8:26 AM
I pulled the fuel tank yesterday because of a drip drip drip. Seems to be coming from the front seam near where the passenger strap crosses.

I got a rough quote from a radiator shop to look at it and fix it for $60 (I did not know at the time it was leaking near the seam).

Based on searches here - it seems like POR is preffered to the system from Eastwood. $30 plus S&H.

New tanks go for about $170 plus S&H.

Any opinions? TIA

Jul 14th, 03, 8:55 AM
Not sure about a seam but I've patched 'em up with cheap ol JB Weld already. (for pin holes)

Jul 14th, 03, 8:57 AM
Nothing wrong with having a radiator shop boil out & solder repair the leak. A new tank is not really necessary unless you have it boiled out & chunks of the skin of the tank are coming apart, then replace it. If the tank needs to be replaced, your radiator shop will advise you of the need. I am not sure why you mentioned POR15, is it capable of sealing a gas tank leak? If that is why you mentioned it, I think you are putting your life in extreme danger, when it comes to a fuel leak OF ANY KIND in a gas tank, have it repaired professionally.

It is EXTREMELY dangerous especially if you drain the tank yourself, drop it & try soldering it yourself, YOUR TANK IS FULL OF FUMES!

You may also want to consider replacing your gas gauge sending unit, there only a couple of bucks, if you drop your tank, now is the time to do it.



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Jul 14th, 03, 1:22 PM
Here's still another opinion...Unless you are positive that the leak is at the seam and that there isn't scale rust inside the tank, spend the extra bucks and buy the new tank. It is highly likely that there will be budding rust issues inside a 30+ year old tank.

The $30. for the POR tank sealer is a bit deceptive. You also need the Marine Clean and Metal Prep POR products to properly prepare the inside of the tank before you pour in the sealer. To do it right with the POR products, the actual cost will be closer to $55-$60. That doesn't count the couple of hours time to clean/flush/clean/flush, etc.

If you intend to keep the car for a long time, spend the money for a new tank and sending unit. You'll sleep better.

Jul 14th, 03, 1:28 PM
I am leaning twoard agrreing with vettefella, yes it may end up being somewhat cheaper to have your radiator shop fix the leak, but why did it start leaking now. It may be due to some hiden rusting problem, and after you get this leak fixed you will probably get another one sometime down the road. When it comes to something as important to your safety as the gas tank, I would just spring for a new one.

Jul 14th, 03, 2:02 PM
thanks for the replies.

71BBSSCONV - POR sells a kit specifically for fuel tanks. I'm not sure how it relates to the POR15 stuff. Per vettefella it sounds like it is closer to $60 or more.

I spoke with a couple of radiator shops and they will de-fume and pressure test the tank for about $30 - then tell me if they can fix it (another $30) or if it is scrap.

Since I plan to keep the car for awhile, I'm leaning towards a new tank.

Sid Coleman
Jul 14th, 03, 4:28 PM
Just get a mental pic of your 'velle burning from a fuel leak if an accident occurs. Think I'd go with a new tank....

Randy Mosier
Jul 14th, 03, 4:57 PM
I'd let the radiator shop make the call. The Por stuff is more for sealing the inside of the tank if rust is a problem to the point that you're constantly having to change fuel filters, if it's the product I'm thinking about.

Jul 14th, 03, 6:42 PM
Originally posted by Randy Mosier:
I'd let the radiator shop make the call. The Por stuff is more for sealing the inside of the tank if rust is a problem to the point that you're constantly having to change fuel filters, if it's the product I'm thinking about. Their website says that it also "Stops rust & leaks", and "Seals pinholes, seams".


Jul 14th, 03, 10:18 PM
Try some stukk called KREEM. I have used it and it works great it is also allowed and required on some aircraft(kit type) so I would not be afraid. I did have severe rust problems and used Muratic Acid to clean that first. Then followed directions on the kit and worked perfect no complaints and would use it again.