off topic 2.8 to 3.1 swap in Beretta [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: off topic 2.8 to 3.1 swap in Beretta


Bob B.
Jul 4th, 03, 8:52 PM
A friend has a Beratta GTU with the 2.8. He said the reason he parked it is because it had bad bearings. The car is a 1989 is in pretty good shape and I can get it for $200.
I know the later models came with the 3.1 and I believe they are the same block. I just wondering if the computer stuff with have to be changed. Is a 3.8 an option?

tblw68ss
Jul 4th, 03, 9:00 PM
I was thinking that GM offered a 3.4 conversion for the 2.8 at one time. But mabey that was for only RWD or 4WD. I used to have an older GMPP catalog that listed it. I'll have to look for it.

RatLuvr
Jul 4th, 03, 10:17 PM
I put a 91' 3.1 v-6 into a 88' cav Z-24 the only thing I had to switch was the EGR valve everything else between the two was a direct swap.....later models than that I'm not sure about because somewhere in there they changed the intake manifold and I don't know if the later manifold/sensors would work with the older ECU?

good place to look is the j-body forums there are a few of them....and I've heard of a few 3.8 into cav swaps but that sounds like mucho work smile.gif

Peace

and btw my cav was $100 and I bought a wrecked 91 corsica for $300 sold the corsica's tranny for $100 and the rest of the body for $100.....grand total for Cav $200 ;)

Bob B.
Jul 5th, 03, 9:40 AM
Thanks for the info, I will look up some of those web sites, going to take a fresh battery and gas out today to see if it will run.

Bob B.
Jul 5th, 03, 11:51 PM
Put a battery in the car today, it cranks fine but there is no fuel in the rail on the intake. Checked the fuel pump fuse, even replaced it to make sure. Tomorrow I will pull the filter and check it. Other than that all it could be is the pump itself right?
I don't hear it come on with the key.

RatLuvr
Jul 6th, 03, 1:59 AM
if the cars been sitting a while the pump is probably bad/frozen/gum'd up my Cav had been sitting for a few years and it did the same thing as yours....I dropped the tank pulled the pump out and beat it around while it was hooked up to power....it free'd it up and its been working for the last year and a half but it doesn't put out the pressure it should......I'll be replacing it soon...if I'd have had the money I would've replaced it then....Delco's run about $100 and the store brand at my local parts place is about half that...same lifetime warranty :D

Peace

Bob B.
Jul 6th, 03, 9:31 AM
Thanks I will try that today, I just want to make sure it runs before I get too involved.

Bob B.
Jul 6th, 03, 10:07 PM
Pulled the pump out today, I beat on it as instructed after putting a bunch of WD40 in it. It finally started to turn very slow and was getting pretty warm, I will try and soak it a few days to see if that helps but it looks like I will be getting a new pump.
Also I could not find voltage at the pump in the run position. Checked all the fuses in the box by the drivers door. There is one marked injectors but not one for fuel pump. Is the another fuse box?

Gary
Jul 10th, 03, 11:41 PM
My daughters 92 (3.1) has a relay on the firewall that operates the fuel pump. Might want to check it?

pmullaly
Jul 11th, 03, 10:17 AM
Fuel pump will only run for 7 seconds after the key is turned. then the oil pressure switch comes into play Oil press required to energize the FP relay.
Hook a test light to the Hot wire of the FP then have an asssistant turn the key on Test light should light for 7 sec then go out. If it does your systems ok. replace the pump