I need to replace the turn signal switch in my 65 Chevelle. When I called Danchuck they told me that I needed to find the casting number on the switch currently in there so that I can get the correct replacement. Here's the switch that's in there right now.

http://www.cwcraft.com/temp/front.jpg
http://www.cwcraft.com/temp/back.jpg
http://www.cwcraft.com/temp/connector_back.jpg
http://www.cwcraft.com/temp/connector_front.jpg

As you can see the switch has been pretty butchered. Anyway...I can't seem to find any casting numbers. There are only two things cast on the switch. The first are the numbers 388-1 and the second is this symbol...

http://www.cwcraft.com/temp/casting_large.jpg

Here's a closer look at it...

http://www.cwcraft.com/temp/casting.jpg

Anyway...I'm trying to see if anybody can tell me which company (Boyne or Delco Remy) made this switch so that I can buy the replacement.

Also...has anybody ever bought anything from Billett Specialties? If so, opinions?

thanks again,

--rO

The two choices for '65 turnsignal switches is either GUIDE or BPC. For what it's worth, mine is a GUIDE and looks nothing like that so I have to assume yours is a BPC. The GUIDE switch is all plastic and it looks like yours is at least partly metal which makes me certain what you have and what I have are different.

I don't know what Danchuck's prices are like, by OPC has them for $84.95 for GUIDE and $69.95 for BPC.

Mine is the BPC and looks identicle to yours. I got mine from True Connections out in Riverside,CA for $63.95. Had a few dealings with them and haven't steered me wrong.

Thanks a lot guys...I really need that info. I have a little follow up question. Do you NEED to have a cancel cam in order for the turn signal to work or is it just Icing on the cake so that the turn signal will cancel on it's own?

--rO

True Connections had a few left when I got mine. I ended up not using it. Let me know if you can't find one.

Hey MMNorm what a nice ride! My 65 is about half way through a frame off resurection and I've installed a 383 as well. What I was wondering is, what set up to you have to get that torque to the ground? You posted an 11.59 so I know you have got the hook up dialed in. Thanx, Bryan

I think the cancel cam is required.

I think it pushes up on the steering wheel and has the horn contact, but it has been a while since I replaced mine.

I heard that the difference between the two switches was that one had a bearing and one didn't, but mine had a bearing and didn't look anything like that, so I can't help on that.

When I ordered mine (muscle factory), the phone rep was able to ID it from my description (mine also didn't have any ID markings).

If danchuck can't help, you might try another company.

The cancel cam is required. It holds the shaft and bearing in alignment and also contains your horn contact.

Now is that true only for stock steering wheels or also for aftermarket ones? I have a LeCarra Steering wheel in my Chevelle.

--rO

Does anybody know if the turn signal lever will work without the cancel cam with a custom steering wheel? Also...will the stock cancel cam fit without the stock steering wheel? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

--rO

No clue about the aftermarket steering wheel. I know when I installed the Grant steering wheel in my '69 Chevy truck I had to rewire the horn to work with their stuff but I was able to retain the cancel cam.

So I bought the Turn Signal Switch and a Cancel Cam...I was looking in my assembly manual and I came across these instructions...

http://www.cwcraft.com/temp/assembly.gif

I seem to have everything except for the spring that goes between the cam and the steering wheel hub. Am I going to need this for installation with my LeCarra steering wheel and hub adaptor. Anybody have any ideas?

--rO

No clue. What all came with your aftermarket wheel? Surely the adaptor is made to accommodate a horn button of some type. I'm pretty sure you'll need to retain the cancel cam not only for it's cancelling duties but because it holds the steering column in place and contains the horn contact. No instructions with the new wheel? Do you have pictures of the parts that came with the wheel? Is there an adapter hub?

In actuality with the BPC switch the Cancel Cam doesn't hold the steering column in place. The BPC switch has a bearing on the inside that holds it in place. I have been driving the car with a busted turn signal switch and no cancel cam for quite some time now. The steering wheel I have is something along the lines of this...

LeCarra (http://lecarra.com/mk2.shtml)

And the horn button is very similar to this...

Horns (http://www.billetspecialties.com/product.asp?cid=18&scid=38)

The adaptor I use is something like this...

Hub Adaptor (http://www.billetspecialties.com/item.asp?cid=18&scid=39&pid=427&rdir=1)

So the setup of the wheel is really quite simplistic. The horn button has a contact on the back of it but I don't know where to hook it up to. I'm very confused and starting to think that I spent $27 on a cancel cam that I'm not going to use.

Thanks again for your help,

--rO

P.S. - I didn't buy all this stuff...it was on the car when I bought it.

Have you tried contacting LaCarra? They might be able to send you a copy of the installation instructions for their product. You may find you are missing some specific parts typically supplied with their wheels and hub adaptors the previous owner failed to make use of.

The cancel cam DOES help hold the steering shaft in place regardless of GUIDE or BPC. The inside diameter in the upper bearing is slightly larger than the outside diameter of the shaft itself (otherwise it would be difficult to get the shaft through the bearing). Without the cancel cam in place the shaft can move up, down and sideways slightly and does not rotate using the bearing itself. That is exactly why the side of the bearing facing the steering wheel is beveled, to accept the cone shaped nose of the cancel cam.

If you haven't been using a cancel cam I'd venture a guess your steering wheel has been a little wobbley all this time since the shaft can move slightly at the upper bearing.

You're right...and when you're right you're right. I'm hoping that I can get these pieces in and get my turn signals working. I'm not too concerned about the horn right now (hate horns and think people should have to be psychologically examined before they are allowed to use them) but i do really want to be able to signal.

I'll try to contact leCarra and see what they have to say.

Thanks,

--rO