I finally can't stand my rusty old headers anymore and I would like to get some shiny, new, ceramic coated ones. I think I'm facing a bit of a dilema being that my '70 Malibu is a bit of a "mutt". Here's my questions/problems:

1) I have an original LS6 454 crate motor(Generation IV, rectangular port heads). Do I need to worry about port matching?

2) The motor has solid mounts. Is this a problem?

3) The car's build sheet says it originally had a Z14 option. = A/C BODY CONV. The air conditioning unit has long since been removed, but will there be any firewall clearances or any other clearance issues to consider that I should order a set for an A/C car?

4) Muncie 4 speed trans.

I'd order the same set that's on the car now, but I can't tell what they are!! Too rusty and can't find any markings. I'd assume they're standard 1-3/4" primaries, 3" collectors.

Tried a search and didn't find any prev. postings addressing any of my issues (or non-issues?). I've never bought/installed headers before, but it seems pretty straight forward. Lot's of good advice in my searches. Just want to find a good pair that will fit!! If you guys could even come up with part numbers, I'd be your friend for life!

I appreciate the help for yet another header question!! Thanks in advance!!

Hi,
1. No
2. No
3. I really don't think so.

And headers vary alot from maufactures, but Heddman, and Dynomax, both seem to have good reputations around here.

Dynomax, even offers a reasonably priced ceramic coated header. I put a set on my Corvette, and was so impressed with them, they will be my first choice, when I need to replace the headers on my Chevelle.

BTW, Nice looking Chevelle you got there. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I'd consider Hooker Super Competition ceramic coated headers too.

If you do a search on the internet, you will find some places that make them out of STAINLESS STEEL.

(as I slobber all over myself)

Dave

You could always just remove your headers and have them sandblasted and ceramic coated for about 200 bucks if they are not in too bad of shape.

Thad: Thanks for the compliment! Looks like you've had a couple of pretty ponies in your stable too! graemlins/thumbsup.gif smile.gif

dwebb210: Stainless would rock, but a bit pricey for my meager budget. But I drool at the thought, too.

71chevelleconvtble: Yeah, I thought of that. Even ordered the intro to Jet Hot promo stuff (VHS tape, pamphlets). But the headers are pretty rusty and thin. I can grab a primary and buckle it a bit by pushing on it with my thumb. Not good. Better off going new.

Originally posted by 70_Malibu:
Just want to find a good pair that will fit!! If you guys could even come up with part numbers, I'd be your friend for life!
I made a vow to continually sing the praises of Doug's Headers, so here I go again.

Part number is D313 (I always need more friends), and here's a link Doug's Headers (http://www.dougsheaders.com)

I have these same ones (ceramic coated) on my car, and they fit awesome.

Not the cheapest around, but very high quality.

Dang gigem! Are those Doug's Headers in this pic from your site?

gigem motor pic (http://www.gigem.com/images/DSC01259.JPG)

Look at the size of them flanges! Cool!

At $434 uncoated, unshipped though... I dunno!

But I'll still be your friend... :D

Originally posted by 70_Malibu:
Dang gigem! Are those Doug's Headers in this pic from your site?

gigem motor pic (http://www.gigem.com/images/DSC01259.JPG)

Look at the size of them flanges! Cool!

At $434 uncoated, unshipped though... I dunno!

But I'll still be your friend... :D Yes sir, those are them! I told you they weren't cheap...

I hate screwing around with header leaks, so I got these bad boys and the fancy Stage 8 locking header bolts.

I will say that I cooked a starter right after I got these headers. Car had headers before, but these from Doug's were a little closer to the starter and fried it. Got a different, smaller starter and it's all good now...

we bought a set of flow tech cheapies 90.00 for the set. painted black looks good sounds great.
call this guy he will give you the stock # and delivery.http://fuelin.com/page15.html

Okay, boils down to this so far:


Summit Prices:

Dynomax Ceramic Coated Headers (#WLK-86110)- $257.95

Hedman Street Headers (Husler) (HTC-ceramic coated)(#HED-68196)- $309.95

Hooker Super Competition Headers (ceramic coated)(#HOK-2118-1)- $539.95


Any thoughts or comments about fit on any of the above, or other suggestions?

Thanks!

Summit p/n SUM-G9010 $79.95..they are painted..just strip them,and paint with some hi-temp.The fit is perfect on both 4 speed and autos.

OK .. my 2cents.. I like hooker's graemlins/thumbsup.gif the headers that is ...... & right now if you buy some 600 dollar ceramic coated ones they'll even throw in a Free t-shirt.. WOW :D ..I've had good experience with them .... just my 2 cents .. you've got to part with the other 599.98 for the headers ....

Doug's Headers cost more than I ever thought I would spend on a set of headers(they are probably the best money I have spent on the car) I got ceramic coated ones and everything about them is first class!!

I've got a 66 Big Block that had some old Black Jacks. They were 1.75" and I just redid the engine compartment and went for the Hooker Supercomps. I don't know the # but they were the 1.75" for around $500 with the High Temp Coating. They are a little wider than the Black Jacks. The drivers side was fine but I had to redo the brake line on the pass side. There is less than 1/2" between the pipes and the frame. I have quite a bit of room between the pipes and the starter though.

Good Luck,
Jay
ACES # 4500

The collector length on the headers I have now are 7". The Hooker Super Comps say their collectors are 10". Problem??? Or I suppose it's apples and oranges....

Do you usually have to do a bit of fabrication to get the existing pipes to connect?? I'm welder-less and have no experience with that!! Help!!

I'm kinda leaning towards the Hedman's so far...

2 last questions and I'll let the thread die... Thanks!

Originally posted by 70_Malibu:
1) The collector length on the headers I have now are 7". The Hooker Super Comps say their collectors are 10". Problem??? Or I suppose it's apples and oranges....

2) Do you usually have to do a bit of fabrication to get the existing pipes to connect?? I'm welder-less and have no experience with that!! Help!!

Originally posted by 70_Malibu:
The collector length on the headers I have now are 7". The Hooker Super Comps say their collectors are 10". Problem??? Or I suppose it's apples and oranges....

Do you usually have to do a bit of fabrication to get the existing pipes to connect?? I'm welder-less and have no experience with that!! Help!!

I'm kinda leaning towards the Hedman's so far... Hi,
1. As far as collector length, it is a factor, but it also depends on the angle the pipes come down at. Two sets of headers with the same length collectors may or may not interchange, and two sets with different length might. :rolleyes:

Your just gonna hafta see for yourself.

2. Headmans are probably a good choice. The "Doug's" headers are bitchin graemlins/thumbsup.gif nice, but :eek: the price is too steep for me. Hooker's are nice too but if I was gonna drop that kind of money, I'd get the "Doug's".

3. You shouldn't need a welder for this, but you might need to take your "head pipes" (the pipes that connect to the headers) to an exhaust shop to have them "flare" the ends of your pipes if you need to cut them. Or you may need longer head pipes, and need new ones made. (This is to some people, a good excuse to drive to the shop with open headers. watch out for the cops ! ;) )

buddy of mine runs dynomax ceamic coated headers on his 454 and they really do cut back the heat and they sound great and look awesome and they really keep it cool to


aaron

graemlins/thumbsup.gif Thanks again Thad! Sounds like fun. Just get the darned things and work 'em. Check.

I guess I'm more worried about the collectors being too long more than anything. I don't want to have to try and remove the existing pipes to get the new headers on. PITA. If they're going to be shorter, I don't care. Open headers could be fun!! Muffler shop's close too.

ive got dynomax ceramics, had them for about 1.5 years now and no discoloration or anything.. i'm not on a bigblock but i'm sure theres very little difference. been extremely happy

In a thread a couple of months ago the Hooker ceramic coating was bashed pretty hard by several folks here. I have the the Hooker Comps, 3 years old and not looking too great these days. In the first year they were shiney and sweet looking, year two they were a little dull. Now in year three they are very dull, have blotches, and rust is spotting through in places. This is on a car that gets driven 2k miles/year, and gets wet only about once a year.

Unless we can determine that Hooker has changed their ceramic coating process I'd strongly recommend that you NOT consider Hookers. It's sad too, because they fit great.

Yeah Barista. I came across that thread in my searches. The Hooker rep. said they changed their coating supplier over a year ago. I'm wondering if they still have a bunch of "bad" headers laying around in the warehouse still, ready to ship to unsuspecting customers. I think I'll stay away from them.

A few more votes for Dynomax? Hmmm. That's cool... they are the most reasonably priced. I might just go for it...

Thanks again for the replies guys!

just installed a set of the dynomax ceramics on a 70 with a 454, one pipe (think its #3 cylinder) just touches the frame mount for the lower control arm. Not what I expected with all the positive responses on these from other members. Too much of a pain to pull them back out and this engine will be out again in a year so I will dimple the tube then. Of course the unknown rusty pair I replaced fit like a glove! Maybe I will get them sent out to get coated.

As someone here said a few months back -- Header bashing isn't about slamming manufacturers - it's an installation technique!! graemlins/clonk.gif

Good luck with whatever you decide!!

Ok here's my update. I think it's good to follow through on posts.

As per a lot of your recommendations, and seeing a sweet arse 70 SS 396 at a cruise in I went to with them on, I went with Dynomax.

Passenger side went on no problems. As expected.

Driver's side... :rolleyes: , whoa nelly. There's no way I could have done this job in my garage. It would've taken more tools and time than I have. I worked with a (great graemlins/thumbsup.gif ) guy at a semi/diesel mechanic shop. He had a monster floor jack and a monster cherry picker. Good thing!! First we tried disconnecting just the steering knuckle... no good. Then we pulled the motor mount bolt and lifted the engine with the cherry picker. Still almost didn't work. We eventually had to jack the front end up about 3' :eek: to get the angle for the old ones to come out. The header was trying to get hung up on the clutch rod pivot.

Well, we got them bolted to the heads, but the collectors were way too long. So out comes the grinding wheel to shorten the head pipes, (and cut off the old reducers), and out comes the welder to weld on the new ones. Also welded on some new hangers as the rubber was shot and one was actually broke by the exhaust tip.

All in all, took us about 4 hours. The results are great!! No clearance issues at all, and I think it's even a bit easier to get at the plugs compared to the old ones. No more being ashamed of the the old rusty headers. smile.gif

Here's some pics if anyone's interested.

Driver's Side Before (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/70_Malibu/Before-DriversSidenreducedsizen.jpg)
Driver's Side After (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/70_Malibu/After-DriversSide2nreducedn.jpg)
Passenger Side After (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/70_Malibu/After-PassengerSide2nreducedn.jpg)
Thanks to all for your help and suggestions! I appreciate it!! :cool: graemlins/beers.gif

That's a great looking engine compartment there! Nice job. How do they sound, about the same as your old ones?
Ed.

Glad it worked out for you. graemlins/beers.gif

Wish my engine compartment was that clean. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Thanks guys! Next year (or when funds allow), I'm going for the polished Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, so then I'll have room for a Cowl Induction setup someday. Also a chrome alternator whenever that craps out. A few more braided lines, and I'll be set. Some people don't like the chrome route and think it's tacky. I think it's fun.

As far as the new headers go, I think they are a bit louder than the old ones. They sound deeper... more rich.

I have no idea what kind of "mufflers" I have though. They're black cylinders about 2' long, maybe 6" in dia. Whatever they are, I think they sound good. They're relatively quiet when cruising, and they just friggin' howl when I give her the beans. I don't think they're glass packs.