We're still working on my dad's LS5, it's slowly going back together...we just haven't had a lot of time lately. Anyway, we're going to replace the rear main seal while the motor is on the hoist. Any tips? I've never done one before, but I have a fairly good idea of how to do it. Pull the pump, bearing cap, and push the old seal thru with a center punch, carefully of course. What should I lubricate the new seal with in order to make installation easier? Will it move easy enough to just push it around the crank with someone turning the crank? Does the main cap need to be torqued on re-installation?

Also, a friend of ours who has an LS6 recommended replacing the oil pump and screen while we have the pan and pump off. Should we bother? From what I've heard, Chevy oil pumps are not known to fail, right? The odometer on the car reads 25,000 miles (I can't imagine they're original miles), but maybe the motor has 25,000 on it? Is the change necessary?

OH, one other important question (a dumb one at that)...I think I'm losing it here...motor turns clockwise...is that clockwise when looking at the flywheel or clockwise when looking at the balancer? Without the starter on there to help me, I'm getting confused!

Thanks!
Mike

Seal should come out pretty easily using the technique you describe. Lube the new seal surface the crank rides on with a dab of assembly lube. As far as the oil pump goes....they're cheap and you may as well replace it now since you have the motor out.

Engine turns clockwise as you look at the balancer.

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Gregg Haskin
72 Chevelle SS
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Make sure you install the new seal with the lip facing towards the front of the engine. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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-Mark
TC# 717
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And yes you must torque the cap back down!!

What gasket are you going to use? Felpro makes a one piece oil pan gasket that goes on with almost no sealer. I have had alot of problems over the years of getting small oil leaks in the corners where the end seals meet the cork gaskets. The gasket is a little pricey but I will never use the 4 piece gasket again.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but doesnt the engine go counter-clockwise looking at at it from the front; clockwise looking at it from the back.
I thought that's what made the cars want to lift the driver's side first.
-Matt

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Mario Andretti.

I have a felpro gasket in the garage...it's the 4 piece. I'm sure that the one piece is much easier to work with, am I better off in terms of longevity with this one? If so, I'll order one today!

I pulled the main seal last night, it came out VERY easy...literally took me 5 minutes once I had the pan off. I have not put the new one back in yet...hopefully tonight. Thanks again for the tips!!! See my post about the condition of the main bearing...I'm a little nervous!
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum9/HTML/011467.html

Thanks again!!!

Actually one of my friends always wants more power out of his 68 427 vette. He has had the engine out twice this year and has reused
the Felpro 1 piece gasket both times with no problems.

Matt, the engine turns Clockwise when viewed from the balancer end (front).

If you have trouble visualizing which way the crank turns, look at the fan blades. The fan turns the same direction as the crank.
So far, good advice on changing the rear seal. One additional piece of info. DO NOT install the seal ends even with the block/cap. Stagger the ends of the seal about 1/4in or so from the mating surfaces of the block/cap. This helps to keep the potential for a gap that could result in a leak to a minimum.

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Tom Parsons