I'm sure it's been asked before, but I've got a 68 chevelle malibu that I want to replace my points distributor with HEI. What do I need to do in order to accomplish this? I've heard that I need to run 10 gauge wire, is this true? Where do I run my wires to? thanks,

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Chris Dietze
~68' Malibu
~48' Chevy Coupe

I've always used 14 ga wire
couple of different ways to do it but you do need to replace the resistive wire that feeds power to the old coil

the most simple way is to run a new wire from the fuse box, just make sure the source has power with the ignition switch in both the "on" position and in the "Cranking" positions

The yellow bypass wire (second wire on the coil's + terminal) can be left off or on, it won't be needed with the HEI but it don't really matter

Put a relay in and trigger it with the origonial ign lead. All you have to do is run a lead from the battery hook up the ground run the output to the HEI and run the origional ign wire to the trigger terminal. The relays can be bought at most old style parts stores. The stock ign switch will not handle the load. People get away with it but they do fail.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Mike Feudo:
Put a relay in and trigger it with the origonial ign lead.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You don't happen to be Carrier Air-conditioning engineer do you Mike ? http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

In my opinion, extra-not needed relays are just an extra source of possible problems
I've never had a problem with the switch not being able to carry the load (yet)

"knocking wood"

I agree with Dean, keep it simple. I replace the resistance wire at the bulkhead with a 10G wire.

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Dave
70 chevelle ss396 conv
66 chevelle ss396 hdp/conv
72 chevelle
55/57/61 chevies
TC member #493
Never forget Earnhardt!

Dean, you are kidding right you want to get into a fight about a relay.

drptop70ss, why would using a ten guage wire on the engine side of the bulkhead plug help anything.

I am a boilermaker my favorite tool is a 20lb sledge.

Good grief. Follow the old KISS philosoph..Keep It Simple Stupid! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif Just run a 12 to 14 guage wire from the "BAT" terminal on the HEI to the "IGN" terminal on the fuse panel. It's fine. Been running this way for many years now, 2000 miles a month, with no problem. The ignition switch will carry it with no problem. Sheesh.

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MalibuJerry350
TC Member #1279
Original owner '70 Chevelle.
568,000+ miles on car.
Hey, if it's got wheels, DRIVE IT!
My Chevelle: http://hometown.aol.com/erie614/myhomepage/index.html

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MalibuJerry350:
Good grief. Follow the old KISS philosoph..Keep It Simple Stupid! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif Just run a 12 to 14 guage wire from the "BAT" terminal on the HEI to the "IGN" terminal on the fuse panel. It's fine. Been running this way for many years now,

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Same thing I did to my 72 camaro back in the mid 80s and it still works. Just remember to carry extra fuses just in case although I never blew any.



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Undee's70SS (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/undee70ss02.jpg)

I use 10G wire because the factory did on HEI cars, and is rated for 30amps which is plenty. I run it from the bulkhead because I like things to look factory. There are lots of ways to do it, personally I dont like extra stuff hanging off my fuse boxes, normally I tie into the harness when possible. Mike you are taking this stuff too personally, if you want to use a relay then fine, but there are other ways to do it. I dont see anyone trying to get in a fight over something as trivial as wiring a distributor. I am not a boilermaker but still got a 20lb sledge in case I have to work on a mopar. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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Dave
70 chevelle ss396 conv
66 chevelle ss396 hdp/conv
72 chevelle
55/57/61 chevies
TC member #493
Never forget Earnhardt!

drptop70ss

Which one of you Chevelles came from the factory with an HEI distributor???

Not the 66 and not the 70, could it be the 72? I'm thinking it was after 73 before the HEI was used widely.

So, doing it like "factory" did it on the early cars is wide open, don't you think???



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www.muncie4speed.com (http://www.muncie4speed.com)
Gold 67
1967 Malibu, 2nd owner.
1971 Malibu, been in the family since new.
There is nothing like rowing through the gears at 7500. Stick cars are so much fun they should be a controlled substance!

HEI started in 1975, and on those cars the HEI has a 10G power feed wire. What I mean by doing it factory is doing it cleanly, like the factory would of done if they had installed HEI in the car. Any mods I do on my cars I try to make look clean and not like an add on, its just the way I like to do it.

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Dave
70 chevelle ss396 conv
66 chevelle ss396 hdp/conv
72 chevelle
55/57/61 chevies
TC member #493
Never forget Earnhardt!

That's the way I do them too Dave, replace the wire from the coil to the to the bulkhead connector (cept I use 14 ga.)


who said anything about fighting, where did that come from ?

http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

Guys what is the wire size on the other side of the bulkhead connector. Putting a 10 ga in the engine compartment is not going to really help. The factory uses a 12 ga feed wire with a much heavier ign switch. HEIs need as much voltage as they can get out of a 12 volt system. Even if the switch doesn't burn up the voltage loss through the too small of wire will hurt performance.

Chris,
Not saying anybody's way is better, or with/without a relay is better. BUT...my experience is alon the lines of Dean/Jerry. I even bought a premade HEI wire from Year One for $12 which made the installation a snap! Been running with this setup going on 3 years now.
Don't forget to regap your plugs once you are done!! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif Otherwise you're not making best use of your newfound fire. Also you might consider tucking the resistor wire up into the loom just in case in the future you want to return to points.

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Better Late than Never Fred
Team Chevelle #400
ACES #4055
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy.
1970 Chevelle Malibu (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Riffers70_1)

Uncle! All my cars run HEI and work. Greyghost there are lots of ways to do it, choose one of a dozen ways and go to it. This is as simple a swap as it gets.

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Dave
70 chevelle ss396 conv
66 chevelle ss396 hdp/conv
72 chevelle
55/57/61 chevies
TC member #493
Never forget Earnhardt!

I'm just sticking my nose in. The same ignition switch in my 72 (non-HEI) is used in the 75 Malibu (factory HEI) The GM # is D1404B out of PartsAmerica. Don't see the difference. Here's the site. http://www.partsamerica.com/

What do you regap the plugs for? I've always done it .035.

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1970 Chevy Custom El Camino (http://www.dreamelectric.com)
Originally was & will be Green Mist & Silver w/Green Vinyl Top (now black)
350ci/300HP 4bbl & Dual Exhaust
TH-350 - 2.73 Posi Rear - Factory PS, PDB, PW, Tilt, A/C & More
My El Camino Home Page (http://www.dreamelectric.com/index.html)
Other Restorations -1969 Snowco Trailer (http://www.dreamelectric.com/Snowco.html) & 1967 Sears Custom 600 Tractor (http://www.dreamelectric.com/1967Sears.html)
Team Chevelle Member #995

I'd gap 'em at .045, IMHO

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Bill

.035 for points, .045 for HEI, even bigger with ignition boxes.

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Russ (or Steve)
1965 Malibu 283/PG/A/C (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/SteveD64SSside.jpg)
Now 283/TH-350 soon to be 383/TH-350
My Homepage (Updated 5/31/2001) (http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/chevelle/)
Team Chevelle Member #71

1. Yes, you need large gauge wire. The average amperage draw of an HEI is fairly low...but the instantanious draw is quite high. It sort of "pulses", and you need to have enough wire to handle the spikes.

2. You cannot just re-gap the original style plugs and gain anything long term. The side electrode needs to be longer, so that it is still "square and centered" over the center electrode with the larger gap. SO: You need to change to the newer style plugs which are made for a larger gap. For instance, if you were using an R-44T, you would want to switch to an R-44TX (.060 gap) or an R-44TS (.045 gap) Any REAL parts counterperson can help you find the right plugs for your engine.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Schurkey:
the instantanious draw is quite high. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

How high is it?
Do you need larger wire than GM put on the car that the HEI came out of ?

I don't know if I ever heard what the actual amp draw is on an HEI