When we printed out the Restoration Part 4 pages last year, it didn't (still doesn't) show how heavy or how soon to apply between each coat of the PPG K200. After the body was beadblasted, minor bodywork performed and body washed, we applied a coat of PPG DP40 etching primer, then scuffed light areas and reshot those areas with DP40.
After sanding that process lightly, we applied a medium coat of the PPG K200. We have been advised to now sand this coat "dull", apply a heavy coat of K200, let it "flash", wait about an hour, then apply another heavy coat of K200. SOUND RIGHT?
This advice comes from Ron, the owner of A STRIP CENTER here in Las Vegas, the shop that glassbead blasted and powdercoated our frame/suspension parts/misc. He was in the auto painting business for over 15 years. He painted the "European Style", which is to create the "WET" look without having to clearcoat.
Anyway, let us know if the K200 2 heavy coats method is correct (this doesn't show in the PART 4).

Richard and Judy White, MAXX2
Member #341


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K200 is an excellent primer/surfacer. This stuff is like liquid bondo, so make sure you follow the mixing directions so it doesnt get too thick to spray. I usually shoot it, let it dry a few hours, and then spray a guide coat of black laquer from a spray can. Block the car, fix imperfections, and respray K200 as needed. block again, and so on until its right. I dont think you need 2 full coats of this stuff on the whole car. You will see when you shoot it one coat is plenty thick. NOTE..dont let this stuff sit for days before you block sand it (wet w/400 grit). It gets rock hard, and you will by dying trying to sand it. After the whole car is sanded and looks good wet, I then shoot a sealer coat over the K200 and then color.

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