onabudget
Apr 10th, 02, 1:13 AM
I am just completing two swaps, one is a 67 hardtop PG to 700, and the other is a 67 Conv't Th350 to 700. I made note of the steps and listed the parts numbers. If anyone has anything to add, other opinions are always welcome.
1. Install OD Tranny to Engine as Normal Tranny would be, Use 3/8 x 1 ¼ Hardened Bolts. The Dipstick Tube for this application will slide in from the top or you can pre-install it on the tranny before installation. Use GM part #10085252(7004R) see note below or for 200R4 GM#15531900 & 14024971. Install the TV cable before mounting up the tranny, Use GM part #25515598 for the cable and a 6 mm x ½ inch bolt to secure it to the tranny.
2. For torque converter to flex plate, use metric bolts, GM part #1261968.
A. If an Inspection cover is needed, GM#14092879 will work. It is the black plastic type.
3. Trans cross member as follows: Use same style tranny mount, as before but you must use metric bolts 10mm x 1 inch, Course Pitch.
A. Hard Top (open channel chassis)-- Slide Cross member back in chassis rails, loosely bolt to tranny mount, and line up cross member holes in chassis. You might have to drill one or both of the cross member chassis holes. Usually one will line up one each side and you will have to drill one on each side also.
B. Convertible (boxed chassis rails)—as the hard top, the cross member will have to be moved back, but at least one bolt on the mounting tabs (welded to the chassis rail) will line up. Loosely bolt up the cross member to the trans mount and line up a hole on the chassis tab on each side. (700’s) There should be enough of the cross member sitting on the tab to drill and add a second mounting bolt, do so. (200’s) If not, and the cross member hangs off the back of the mounting tab, then you will have to mock up and weld a mounting tab to the chassis rail to accommodate a second bolt one each side.
C. Tighten cross member to chassis bolts, then tranny mount bolts.
4. Drive shaft-- For 200’s the length will be correct, but make sure the spline count is correct for the slip yoke, certain years vary. For 700’s you must check the slip yoke as well, but the shaft must be shortened. For all applications, it is recommended that you measure for length, and then send shaft out to a drive shaft shop to check for proper length, new u-joints and have it balanced. To measure, jack car up from the rear end, not the chassis. Measure from the seal-mounting surface on the tail of the tranny, to the center of where a u-joint cap would be in the rear end. Give that measurement to the drive shaft shop and they will figure out what the correct length would be.
5. TV Hookup at Carb—For Holley Carbs use bracket #Holley 20-95, for Q-jet carbs use GM #3973000 or the bracket sold by TCI or Bowtie-Overdrives. For the stud on the carb, change the ball type stud used for the old kick down cable, and replace it with Holley #20-40. Slide the TV cable through the bracket and click it in, then attack the cable end the new carb stud. Adjust cable as follows: Depress the tab on the TV cable, located where the cable goes through the bracket. This will let the sleeve on the cable slide back into the housing. Once the sleeve slides back, stop pressing the tab, and move carb linkage all the way to full throttle, this will let the sleeve ratchet out to the correct position.
6. If you’re not using a lock up type converter your done. For lock up converters, you must install a lock up control. You can purchase a kit, or make up your own. I have a list of parts needed to make up your own kit, for half the price of an aftermarket kit, and it uses all GM parts. Will post later (still writing it up).
7. Complications and Recommendations- Above part # for the dipstick tube (700R4), may be the tube only, not the tube-dipstick combo. During my recent swaps I bought some parts from Bowtie-Overdrives, these parts fit well and had the GM part label still on them. The dipstick/tube combo had only one part number, and it is unknown how it will come when ordered from GM. I like to use GM parts when I can, this makes things much easier to fix things down the road or when away from home on a trip. I purchased all my GM parts from “GMPartsDirect.com” definitely the cheapest around. Bowtie-Overdrives also has a complete line of parts needed for your swap. The 200/700 debates still forge on, and I won’t go there, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Although the 200 does not require drive shaft modification, the 200’s mount location is farther back. This does not affect an installation on a hardtop car. However, on a convertible or other model with a boxed frame, this will require a fabrication and welding of frame mounts for the cross member.
Regards
Rob
AMMENDED 6/4/2003
Please note, with regards to the TV cable hookup with a holley carb the following situation occured:
My shifts were short and light, because with the holley carb the location of the TV stud at idle is too far forward. To correct this problem I took a piece of 1/16" flat stock, maybe 1/2" by 1&1/4". I then drilled 2, 1/4" holes about 3/8" apart. I mounted the front hole to the spot where the TV stud was with a 1/4" bolt and lock nut. Then orient the bracket so the second hole points rearward and slightly down, and attach the TV stud there. Once thats done you can hook up and adjust the cable as listed above. Hope this helps.
BTW, in hindsight the "TV made EZ" from bowtie overdrives sounds like a good idea. Also not you shouldn't have the above problem with Q-Jets, because the location of the stud is correct out of the box.
1. Install OD Tranny to Engine as Normal Tranny would be, Use 3/8 x 1 ¼ Hardened Bolts. The Dipstick Tube for this application will slide in from the top or you can pre-install it on the tranny before installation. Use GM part #10085252(7004R) see note below or for 200R4 GM#15531900 & 14024971. Install the TV cable before mounting up the tranny, Use GM part #25515598 for the cable and a 6 mm x ½ inch bolt to secure it to the tranny.
2. For torque converter to flex plate, use metric bolts, GM part #1261968.
A. If an Inspection cover is needed, GM#14092879 will work. It is the black plastic type.
3. Trans cross member as follows: Use same style tranny mount, as before but you must use metric bolts 10mm x 1 inch, Course Pitch.
A. Hard Top (open channel chassis)-- Slide Cross member back in chassis rails, loosely bolt to tranny mount, and line up cross member holes in chassis. You might have to drill one or both of the cross member chassis holes. Usually one will line up one each side and you will have to drill one on each side also.
B. Convertible (boxed chassis rails)—as the hard top, the cross member will have to be moved back, but at least one bolt on the mounting tabs (welded to the chassis rail) will line up. Loosely bolt up the cross member to the trans mount and line up a hole on the chassis tab on each side. (700’s) There should be enough of the cross member sitting on the tab to drill and add a second mounting bolt, do so. (200’s) If not, and the cross member hangs off the back of the mounting tab, then you will have to mock up and weld a mounting tab to the chassis rail to accommodate a second bolt one each side.
C. Tighten cross member to chassis bolts, then tranny mount bolts.
4. Drive shaft-- For 200’s the length will be correct, but make sure the spline count is correct for the slip yoke, certain years vary. For 700’s you must check the slip yoke as well, but the shaft must be shortened. For all applications, it is recommended that you measure for length, and then send shaft out to a drive shaft shop to check for proper length, new u-joints and have it balanced. To measure, jack car up from the rear end, not the chassis. Measure from the seal-mounting surface on the tail of the tranny, to the center of where a u-joint cap would be in the rear end. Give that measurement to the drive shaft shop and they will figure out what the correct length would be.
5. TV Hookup at Carb—For Holley Carbs use bracket #Holley 20-95, for Q-jet carbs use GM #3973000 or the bracket sold by TCI or Bowtie-Overdrives. For the stud on the carb, change the ball type stud used for the old kick down cable, and replace it with Holley #20-40. Slide the TV cable through the bracket and click it in, then attack the cable end the new carb stud. Adjust cable as follows: Depress the tab on the TV cable, located where the cable goes through the bracket. This will let the sleeve on the cable slide back into the housing. Once the sleeve slides back, stop pressing the tab, and move carb linkage all the way to full throttle, this will let the sleeve ratchet out to the correct position.
6. If you’re not using a lock up type converter your done. For lock up converters, you must install a lock up control. You can purchase a kit, or make up your own. I have a list of parts needed to make up your own kit, for half the price of an aftermarket kit, and it uses all GM parts. Will post later (still writing it up).
7. Complications and Recommendations- Above part # for the dipstick tube (700R4), may be the tube only, not the tube-dipstick combo. During my recent swaps I bought some parts from Bowtie-Overdrives, these parts fit well and had the GM part label still on them. The dipstick/tube combo had only one part number, and it is unknown how it will come when ordered from GM. I like to use GM parts when I can, this makes things much easier to fix things down the road or when away from home on a trip. I purchased all my GM parts from “GMPartsDirect.com” definitely the cheapest around. Bowtie-Overdrives also has a complete line of parts needed for your swap. The 200/700 debates still forge on, and I won’t go there, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Although the 200 does not require drive shaft modification, the 200’s mount location is farther back. This does not affect an installation on a hardtop car. However, on a convertible or other model with a boxed frame, this will require a fabrication and welding of frame mounts for the cross member.
Regards
Rob
AMMENDED 6/4/2003
Please note, with regards to the TV cable hookup with a holley carb the following situation occured:
My shifts were short and light, because with the holley carb the location of the TV stud at idle is too far forward. To correct this problem I took a piece of 1/16" flat stock, maybe 1/2" by 1&1/4". I then drilled 2, 1/4" holes about 3/8" apart. I mounted the front hole to the spot where the TV stud was with a 1/4" bolt and lock nut. Then orient the bracket so the second hole points rearward and slightly down, and attach the TV stud there. Once thats done you can hook up and adjust the cable as listed above. Hope this helps.
BTW, in hindsight the "TV made EZ" from bowtie overdrives sounds like a good idea. Also not you shouldn't have the above problem with Q-Jets, because the location of the stud is correct out of the box.