The plan is to get rid of my TH350 and replace it with a M20 4 spd. I am getting the 4 spd from my friend that will have a Super Shifter 3 with it (he got a 5 spd). I looked all over and couldn't find a factory looking shifter to fit on the Super Shifter 3 so i decided to saw shifters.
Heres what i think i need.

1. Transmission (well duh http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif)
2. 12" Centerforce DF Clutch / Pressure Plate 10 Spline
3. Throwout Bearing for Centerforce Clutch
4. Lakewood Blowproof Bellhousing
5. Hurst Comp+ Shifter with Install Kit
6. Pedal Linkage and Clutch Assembly (I am getting that on Friday)
7. Also i might have to swap my starter

Also the motor is in the car and was planning on doing the swap with the motor in the car, is it possible to get the flywheel off the car to do this swap or will the engine have to be pulled?

Here's a few things, in no particular order. You will need the pilot bushing that goes in the crank shaft end. Your speedometer cable may not be long enough to hook up to the Muncie. You may need an extension. You will need the shifter boot for your manual floor shift. The shifter "hump" for the floor (available from Ausleys) is not necessary, but makes the shifter boot fit better and look nicer. You will need to do something with the auto trans neutral safety switch. Some of the manual transmission cars for use a safety switch on the clutch pedal which disables the starter unless the clutch pedal is pressed down. You may want to install this. On my auto to manual conversion project, I just by-passed the neutral safety switch. I'm not saying that's a good idea, just that it worked. If your existing automatic shifter is a column type, you will need to deal with removing the linkage and covering up the hole in the column and the gear indicator. I am not sure what is included in your clutch linkage set. Sometimes the "complete" sets sold by the repro parts houses leave out a few things-springs, pedal pads, etc. Be aware that the repro pedals sometimes do not fit well (or at all). You may need to do some reworking.

As you know, there are always things that come up-usually after the parts store closes.

Take a look at Wes Vann's article on auto to manual conversions in the Tech Reference area of this site. The article is not written for any specific year, but it helped me a lot in thinking through all of the issues.

It is possible to change out the transmission without pulling the engine. Wes Vann's article deals with this. I left the engine in the car on my conversion project. You will need a floor jack and at least three jack stands (two for the frame and one for the engine). Be very careful pulling out the old automatic transmission. An automatic transmission is way too heavy to pull out without a jack (at least for me, anyway). On my conversion project, I had to drive a tire iron between the torque converter and the flexplate to get the transmission out. The transmission popped loose suddenly and fell off the jack. I was not underneath the trans when that happened.

One last thought-keep a bucket of kitty litter handy. You will spill auto trans fluid and gear oil on your garage floor.

Good luck and have fun. Check back in if you have questions.

Don't forget to get a pivot ball for the clutch fork...

and bolts for the trans-to-bellhousing

You might want to order some of the offset dowels pins to properly align the blow-proof bell-housing (and not have to wait for them to come in...). They usually come in three offsets, and I would think you could return the unopened packages.

Need a dial indicator and magnetic base to align the bellhousing...

Not sure ifthe clutch linkage comes with instructions/exploded view of the assembly, so you might want to find a factory assembly manual to help on the placement of all the pieces.

A little advice, I would bolt everything in first (without the crossmember) before cutting the floor. Then you can jack up the whole assembly and see where you need the whole for the shifter. Then cut the hole to match... If you are going to use a stock/repro shifter hump, I guess you could just possition that where it fits... The Comp-Plus should be very close to where a stock handle should be...

You should be able to do the swap with the engine in the car...

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"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
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[This message has been edited by 1966_L78 (edited 01-08-2003).]

I converted my '69 from a TH350 to a Richmond 6-speed with the engine in the car.

If you do this, cut some ready-rod to act as guides when you are ready to do the flywheel, pressure plate, and the tranny.

It is easier/safer to lift those components and slide them onto some guides.

Torquing the flywheel and pressure plate while the engine is in the car can be a little tricky too.

Dave

stick cars also used a different crossmember than an auto car. well, same crossmember, but it had a special piece welded to the x-member for the shifter mount.

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Michael


T.C. member # 758
ACES member # 4292

69 malibu convertible
69 malibu h/t 307/pg
<<this space reserved for 66/67 chevelle BB/4spd>>
01 gmc sierra

I am getting some used pedals and clutch linkage from someone on friday not a repro. I didn't think i needed a different crossmember i thought the shifter doesn't connect to it (could be wrong am lots of the time). I was going to cut a hole in my shifter hump and maybe swap that out later depending how good of a job i do.

I was just reading Wes's Article about this, and i noticed he mentioned if you have a powerglide you will need a shorter drive shaft.

I use to have a powerglide in this car and we swaped to a TH350 so will this mean that i will need to get a different drive shaft and if i do where can i get one?