I thought I'd ask in a different post...

I would like to set up an overflow system that will allow the exra water/pressure to be bleed off, and siphoned back into the sytem when cool, like most newer cars...

I currently have just a hose going to a bicycle bottle and bracket under the fender (hey, its small, cheap, out-of -the-way, and the cool bracket came in a polish aluminum finish)...

Does the bottle have to be up high to work? Do these need a hole in the lid to work?
Or will they not work with the hole in the lid?
I have a radiator cap without a lever, is this correct?
If I am using the radiator cap without a lever, and the bottle is low, will the system suck air? Is that bad?

I presume the hose from the radiator would have to be continuous and sealed, running to the bottom of the overflow container, correct?

I would like to do this, but really like to keep it hidden (under the front fender, under the battery is good), and I'd like to keep this cheap...

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Tony

In a 1966 Chevelle...

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"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Quik66.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/eng7.jpg

Nappa has a great little bottle/kit. It's a universal it bottle but the size is great(6 1/2w x 5h x 4d). If you're using a stock style Rad. it would pobably be best to mount it ou the left fender lip. Other wise the hose could be very long and hard to purge. I have a 16lb cap with no lever, lever is more for safety when opening a hot Rad.
Hope this helps, Rob

If you use high pressure single stage caps, and do NOT fill your radiator to the top allowing for some natural expansion, you do not need an expansion cap. If you get coolant pushed out with a 20lb cap, then you have bigger problems.

I run a 20 on my Camaro and never had one drop of coolant comeforth.


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Steve Jack
-Concept One Pulleys and Brackets
-Engineering & Marketing Technologies
-Northern/Southern Rodder Magazine's "Jack'Stands" technical column author/originator

This has already been covered, but here goes: serveral aftermarkets are available, however I've found, thanks to several other folks on this great site, a great solution. A mid-'80's F-Body overflow bottle mounts nicely to the inner fender on the passenger side. It looks stock! I run a 16# cap and have no problems. It cycles the water just like a new car. I purchased the bottle for $15 from my local dealer.

If you follow the links on my page to my Restoration Button, it has a picture on it of the setup.

Good luck!

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David Reinecke - aka - FINE 68
1968 Chevelle 300 Sport Coupe Deluxe
http://home.att.net/~thereineckes/

Wow, that does look trick. You can get that from the Chevy dealer huh?

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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
Pics coming soon!
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle Malibu, gutted.

The GM part numbers are 14070997 for the tank and 15630112 for the Cap. Run a search and you'll find my post with a picture of the tank installed on a 72SS, looks like it was born with it. Both parts are fairly cheap.
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Never be afraid to try something new.
An amatuer built the Ark,
Professionals built the Titanic.
Team Chevelle Gold #33
ACES Member #02913



[This message has been edited by T-Man (edited 07-13-2002).]

Thanks everyone,

Does this need to be mounted up high to work? or can it be put down low? Will the height affect the operation? I am already thinking of putting the battery in the truck to clean up the engine compartment, don't know if I want the bottle "right there"...

Steve,

I haven't driven the car with the 20-pound cap yet... I was just thinking that when the coolant is expelled/displaced when hot, it would be nice to have it automatically refill when cooling... I figured there must be a benefit, or else you wouldn't see all the newer cars with this type of system...

------------------
"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Quik66.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/eng7.jpg

I picked up the GM bottle and cap for $20. they really look nice once applied.

I'm going to get my bottle/cap today. Thanks for the idea/part numbers guys. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif

------------------
'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
Pics coming soon!
--------------------------------------
'70 Chevelle Malibu, gutted.

Hey David,

I looked at your website and you've done a great job. Lot's of info there and I like the radiator overflow setup. My question is, how did you attach it to the fender? Bolts or sheet metal screws?

Dan
<><

Tony,

Other than preventing coolant loss, this setup prevents air from entering the radiator and thus, cuts down on corrosion.

Dan <><

Dan,

I used hefty stainless sheetmetal screws with a plastic type of washer.

Hope that helps!

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David Reinecke - aka - FINE 68
1968 Chevelle 300 Sport Coupe Deluxe
http://home.att.net/~thereineckes/

Thanks Dave!

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by dreinecke:
Dan,

I used hefty stainless sheetmetal screws with a plastic type of washer.

Hope that helps!

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

1966-L88, I run almost the same setup as you, a bike bottle from Winn-Dixie with a home made bracket and stuck down behind the battery. Key is that the hose to the Rad goes in the bottom and it is vented out the top with a hose that goes thru a body panel to the ground. Run a 13lb cap and the bottle is lower than the radiator cap. Cold the bottle is low/hot the bottle is almost full, Proof that the system sucks the coolant back as it should. When I open the cap cold the radiator is full, again as it should be. Only problem is, and its a minor one, is if the coolant is low I have to fill it thru the radiator slowly, and keep an eye on the overflow bottle as I can't take the cap off the bottle.