I am ready to put on my new Stewart water pump... Engine temps have never been that bad, but I figured it would be better...

I live in northern California (Sacramento), summer temps are hot (was 112 degrees on Wednesday, and 109 on Thursday), and I'd like to know what I should do for coolant/water...

The car is always garaged, and winters never get very cold (maybe a few nights below 32, but I don't recall many high-20's).
I don't mind adding some anti-freeze in the winter, but for summer...

I want the best cooling for summertime cruising...

I have heard straight water is the best coolant...

Should I run straight water? Distilled?

Should I run some anti-corrosion stuff (Prestone)? I have aluminum radiator and heads, plus pump and intake.

Should I run Redline Water Wetter?

Should I run something else?

1966 Chevelle 396, Edelbrock RPM cam, dual quads, New Stewart Stage 2 waterpump, March pulleys (OVER drive ratio-street rod setup) Be-Cool alum radiator, factory clutch-fan (1970-model 7-blade with newer replacement clutch), factory shroud, no heater (factory heater delete)...had 16-pound cap

Dual 11" Hayden pusher fans, manually controlled.

This car heated up to 230 in severe stop-and-go driving and hot 90+ weather (low humidity).

Lately, sees 190 normal with 85+ outside (at center of drivers head-above exhaust), drops to ~175 when cruising (outside under 80). Robert Shaw thermo with bypass holes (4 at 1/8"). And older (8 years)Weiand alum pump (Action?).

180 thermo, watching guage open at 180-temp drops...

Haven't checked with new pulleys and waterpump, new RS thermo and 20-pound cap (no lever)...

I want to go dual 11" spals, but can't afford that at this time (I need to upgrade the electrical/alternator first)... Just want the best coolant for the summer...

Thanks

------------------
"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Quik66.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/eng7.jpg


[This message has been edited by 1966_L78 (edited 07-12-2002).]

[This message has been edited by 1966_L78 (edited 07-12-2002).]

[This message has been edited by 1966_L78 (edited 07-12-2002).]

A mixture of coolant and water will raise the boiling point and lower the freezing point of the coolant. See the back of your coolant bottle for the proportions for different boiling and freezing points. There are new environmentally friendly antifreezes, and ones like they put in the new cars that only needs to be changed every 50K miles.

Water wetter is a beautiful thing. I used it in many an oval track car since we only were allowed to use water for coolant. I don't know how well it works with antifreeze.

Hth

K

------------------
64 2 Door 400SB/TH350 (actually IN the driveway!)
http://users.rcn.com/chevello
"You laugh because I am different. I laugh because you are all the same."
TC Member #1155

Sounds like you are doing the right things with improvements in coolant flow and air flow as well as keeping the pressure up! This will improve your systems efficiency tremendously.

The best mixture for your regions cooling year around is a 20% mixture of antifreeze (ethylene Glycol) 80% distilled water, water wetter (which IS NOT an antifreeze at all), anti corrosive additive, and don't forget that sacrifical anode for all the aluminum parts!

The addition of some antifreeze adds boiling protection, minimal freezing protection, anti corrosive additives, and surfactant action to the whole mix.

------------------
Steve Jack
-Concept One Pulleys and Brackets
-Engineering & Marketing Technologies
-Northern/Southern Rodder Magazine's "Jack'Stands" technical column author/originator

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>The best mixture for your regions cooling year around is a 20% mixture of antifreeze (ethylene Glycol) 80%
distilled water, water wetter (which IS NOT an antifreeze at all), anti corrosive additive, and don't forget that
sacrifical anode for all the aluminum parts!

The addition of some antifreeze adds boiling protection, minimal freezing protection, anti corrosive additives,
and surfactant action to the whole mix.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Steve...

Since I only changed the water pump, there was still water and coolant mixture in the block... The coolant there might be 20-30% coolant, but when I refill the radiator and the upper end of the engine, it will be much less concentration of coolant...

I will probably run this way first... Check the system and see what she does...

I am then going to switch the temp sender from the head (above the exhaust; BBC, headers and alum heads) to the intake (But I first want to see what the Stewart pump does, so I need to keep everything else similar to my baseline setup, I need to keep the sender where it was before.).

For final filling, I estimate that with the current coolant level, and the system capacity, I will probably add 1/2 gallon of coolant when its all done. This might I will also add the Water Wetter, and other anti-corrosion agent...

Steve,

You mentioned a "sacraficial anode" for the aluminum, but I though you mentioned (in the Jack-Stands cooling info at the other site) that the aluminum was more sacrificial than even zinc...

What should I use for a sacrificial anode, and where should I place it (upper hose seems safest to me)?

------------------
"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Quik66.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/eng7.jpg

[This message has been edited by 1966_L78 (edited 07-15-2002).]

The sacrificial anode should be zinc....

Here's one from JC Whitney that I use in the radiator cap. Just make sure to lubricate the rubber seal when using this.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/images/imagecache/I6992.gif

The web page is http://www.jcwhitney.com/catsubpic.jhtml?CATID=3106&BQ=jcw2 for information. Cheap insurance I'd say.

------------------
Steve Jack
-Concept One Pulleys and Brackets
-Engineering & Marketing Technologies
-Northern/Southern Rodder Magazine's "Jack'Stands" technical column author/originator

There is no need for a sacrificial anode for aluminum because aluminum builds up a protective coating of aluminum oxide when it corrodes. This is unlike iron in which the rust flakes away exposing more metal to oxidize.

Also, aluminum is more reactive than zinc, so zinc simply cannot be used as a sacrificial anode for it. You'd need magnesium for that.



<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by HOTRODSRJ:
The sacrificial anode should be zinc....

Here's one from JC Whitney that I use in the radiator cap. Just make sure to lubricate the rubber seal when using this.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/images/imagecache/I6992.gif

The web page is http://www.jcwhitney.com/catsubpic.jhtml?CATID=3106&BQ=jcw2 for information. Cheap insurance I'd say.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I put a quart of "40 Below" in my stroker motor a couple of weeks ago. cruise temps dropped 15 degrees. I've tryed Water Wetter and Purple Ice, neither worked this well.
I idled in a 4th of July parade in 92 deg heat for an hour and a half, never went over 180 deg.

------------------
1965 Chevelle
Maroond


Maroon 65 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/marooned65.jpg)

Two bottles of Water Wetter and distilled water cured my overheating problems. Water wetter now includes a water pump lubricant.

------------------
Bob Von Kaenel
70 SS 54k orig miles

ScottC......I respectfully disagree.

Aluminum does oxidize, but still will conduct profusely (relatively speaking) and corrosion inhibitors in the coolant additive package slows aluminum degradation/oxidation a bunch (both with base stabilizers and anti corrosive agents). I have personally seen aluminum parts internal to the coolant jacket go away in less than a year!

Electrolysis depends on the relative location in the electrolytic activity table, and the electrical conductivity of the fluid. Distilled water is a very poor electrical conductor, as opposed to a thermal conductor. Ionized water is much better conductor because of the dissolved ions.

Some materials will electrolyticly react with a conductive fluids such as acid coolants. But the most active materials will be absorbed by the electro-chemical reaction first. Aluminum will dissolve before the iron. That's why the aluminum heads and pumps go, but this reduces the electrolysis of the cast iron. The use of a material higher in the electrolytic table, such as zinc or magnesium, will cause those materials to be sacrificial anodes before the materials lower on the scale, like aluminum, copper, iron are affected.

ps....just because al is higher on the table in position does not mean it is necessarily higher in reactivity.

ps2...you put anticorrosives in the cooling system to keep iron from rusting, and aluminum from oxidizing. That's why it conducts so readily. Only a poorly kept system will rust or oxidize.

However, magnesium will work also.


------------------
Steve Jack
-Concept One Pulleys and Brackets
-Engineering & Marketing Technologies
-Northern/Southern Rodder Magazine's "Jack'Stands" technical column author/originator

[This message has been edited by HOTRODSRJ (edited 07-16-2002).]

For my ongoing streetrod project truck, I'm trying to decide between trying the "40 Below" product & this "water wetter" that has been mentioned here a couple of times. The "40 Below" says to drain radiator (understanding that block still has antifreeze/water mixture in it 50/50) then add product & finish refill the radiator with distilled water. Is "40 Below" just another name for "water wetter"? Are there other similar products available under other brand names? I have found "40 Below" in my local Advance Auto Parts. I've done all the other things recommended to bring the idling temperature down & before I start redesigning the radiator mounts to allow for a larger cfm puller fan & shroud, I'd like to try one of these products. Thanks.
1966 L78-- Sorry to gang in on your question, but it seemed like a good exchange that might help my situation. Thanks again.

[This message has been edited by odie (edited 08-07-2002).]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by odie:
Is "40 Below" just another name for "water wetter"? Are there other similar products available under other brand names? ).]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

40 below and water wetter are different products. Water wetter is made by redline oil. Not sure who makes 40 below. And yes, there are a couple of other products that claim to do the same but I would stick to these two as they have been tried and tested by the fellers here.

I run water wetter, anti-corrosive, and distilled water.

Also, if your not running a shroud and using a fixed fan I would start there first or in conjunction with these products, otherwise you will just be masking the issue with an additive, if it even makes a difference.

Make sure the system is up to par first, then make improvements as needed. Water wetter is a great product, IMO, but it aint no miracle worker. Beneficial when used in conjunction with a well functioning system as opposed to trying to make a poorly funcitoning system work well.

Shrouds are a must, no matter clutch, fixed, electric, whatever.



------------------
'70 SS 396
4spd, 4.10's and a smile
TC# 1341
ACES# 05388
Beaux
The SS (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/btmyss.JPG)
The Rat (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/btmill.JPG)- Plans for a 496 in the works.
Interior (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/midint.JPG)

Life is a gateway drug that leads to Chevelle addiction.

Here's a tip I picked up from the Turbo Buick crowd... if your car doesn't see freezing weather, go with pure distilled water and RMI-25. The RMI-25 not only has an anticorrosive/lubrication package, but it's also a surfectant (same as WaterWetter). Good stuff. If it does see freezing weather, go back to adding some antifreeze for the cold months.

FYI 1966_L78, my 485hp 353 runs 185-190 with the A/C on max on 105-110 degree days (I'm 35 minutes south of you)... I'm running a custom high-density copper/brass 3-row radiator, a factory 7-blade fan, factory shroud, and Delco HD fan clutch. This is with a mix of 75% distilled water / 25% antifreeze... next coolant change I do I'm going to pure distilled water and RMI-25 because I've had EXCELLENT luck with that combo in my Turbo-buick powered car (dropped the temps 10-15F from a 75/25 water/antifreeze mix on hot days).

Have you considered removing the electic pusher fans on the front and just running the 7-blade? In many cases, electric fans on the front will serve as a restriction to the mechanical fan, because the mechanical fan can pull so much more air.

I'm going to give the dual Spal's a try as soon as I upgrade my alternator. I like the cleaner look of the engine compartment with the electrics, but mainly because my factory 7-blade fan manages to kick up any dust on the ground and make my engine compartment REALLY dirty. All I have to do is idle through a dusty parking lot and I see clouds of dust coming out from under the car. Grrrrr...

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 08-10-2002).]