Howdy. I did a search on hot motors and I know this topic has been beaten dead badly, but I was wondering some opinions on my problem. I'm running a close to 400HP 355, and today it was crepping past 230'! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif Thing is, I have a big bad 31''x19''x1'' tubing Griffin alum radiator, and a 30% more flow water pump. I'm running a Mr. Gasket balanced 180' thermo. I have no shroud (have it, but it bounces on the bottom of the radiator fins so I took it out). And I have also plugged my heater hose ports because the heater knob is broken off the car and I couldn't turn the heater on if I wanted to. Give the fact that I'm shroudless and heaterless, I still think this is astronomical temps for a mild 355 with a big radiator and water pump on it. What should I do? It will run around 180'-190'+ driving down the road with wind hitting it, but as soon as it hits traffic it creeps past 210'-220' and sometimes worse and stays there even when I hit the open road again. Could a bad tune be contributing to it's cooling problem? It's a brand new Autogauge temp. gauge and I don't think its messed up or anything, I'm just wondering why my car is pushing temps that my buddy's 502 powered Elky never sees. Any tips are greatly appriciated! Thanks! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
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'70 Chevelle, gutted.

How did it do with the shroud on? Without the shroud the fan will not actually pull air through the radiator. The type of fan will also play a big roll in staying cool. If the temp drops when your at speed it is going to be a shroud / fan fix for sure. Scrap the flex fan, reinstall shroud and score a sure enough clutch fan. Running an aluminum rad is great, but without air moving across it, it will have a hard time exchanging heat. Craig

also,,you might want to double check the water pump, make sure its not one for a serpentine belt setup....turns backwards

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1970 BB El Camino 4sp
1970 GTO

Clutch fan and shroud. Im thinking without the shroud, its not pulling air through the rad as was suggested above. At highway speeds air is being forced through the grill. Thus, the clutch set-up that will engage at low speed when you need it and the shroud will aid the fan in pulling air through the rad. A necessary set-up, IMO, or grab yourself a MarkVIII or windstar set-up. Lower rad hose isnt collapsing right? Burped the system, no air pockets, say after a drain and refill?


I think Craig is right on the money.

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'70 SS 396
4spd, 4.10's and a smile
TC# 1341
ACES# 05388
Beaux
The SS (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/btmyss.JPG)
The Rat (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/btmill.JPG)- Plans for a 496 in the works.

Life is a gateway drug that leads to Chevelle addiction.

[This message has been edited by Midnight Marauder (edited 07-11-2002).]

I'll slap the shroud on there until I can get a hold of one of those Tornado 2,000 CFM puller fans out of Summit. I'll slap a pusher on the front of the rad to help it out at idle. Thanks for the tips, sounds like I diffinetly need some air to be pushed through (should have followed advice about Flex Fans being CRAP). Thanks guys! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif

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'72 Nova
355 L-31 Vortec
TH-350
10-Bolt 2.56 Open, Rally Suspension
Weld Draglites (235/fr 255/rr)
3,071 lbs. w/ Full Cell
Pics coming soon!
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'70 Chevelle Malibu, gutted.