What about this stuff? I don't know jack about A/C bu this stuff was a big seller at the Hot August Nights swap meet! they clame no midification needed to system. www.polarbearautoair.com (http://www.polarbearautoair.com)
There's another brand called "Duracool"

Anybody know what the deal is with this stuff?

thanks
John

Just dump 134 in it. 134 works with R12 just fine. Been there, done that

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350 TBI EFI 4speed 12bolt 3.73's
Bench Blue w/black inter. 14.5@90mph
"UNACCEPTABLE!!!!!" Beldar

My 69 Chevelle (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Chevelle1.jpg)

I thought you couldn't mix 12 and 134? They use different lubes for one and they operate at different pressures.

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65 Malibu SS, Crocus Yellow with black interior. Let the fun and back pain begin.

Have your r-12 system evacuated and take compressor off and make sure all r-12 oil is out. Then shoot 134 in along with compatible oil. My chevelle has worked great for 2 years.

I agree with KirkS, R-12 and R-134 ARE NOT compatable in the same system. There are converion kits to change from R-12 to R-134, but it has to be clean or the R-12 first. ChevelleCLM, the only reason I can think of how you have kept from blowing you system is that there was very little R-12 in the system to begin with.




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Cable Bright
-'70 El Camino 383
(Drag Project)
-'91 Caprice 9C1 TBI 383
(not you granny's car!!)
-Odd Ball Racing (owner)
"....after all, people just want a normal life and a cool car....most people settle for the car."

hilljack,i have sold a/c items and done work on a/c systems. these compatibale substitutes sometimes contain propane which if involved in a frontal crash is explosive.if you want to switch over to R-134 buy the retro kit but have the system evacuated by a shop,i always recommend to replace the receiver-drier to get the best results. the drier can contain oil residue from the R-12 that can contaminate the system no matter how long you vacuum the system.stay with refrigerant that will be readily available.JIMK

John. I had answered another posting from you with the same question:

John. The site you mentioned states their product is a hydrocarbon (HC) type refrigerant. The main component of HC types is some sort of isobutane.

A couple of months ago I have done some serious reading and found the HC types have been very popular in early days of cooling and nowadays are widely being used again in refrigerators. They are not yet used in cars, mainly because of the high risks that arise when the system would leak, especially inside the interior of the car!

The characteristics show that a HC cools great, mixes great with the oil in the system, is rather cheap, is very, very ozone friendly and you will need a lesser charge (all in respect to R12).

Some drop ins - R413A for instance - use a bit of butane to help transport the oil in the system. (R134 does not transport the oil very well either). I have read some people use LPG in their A/C system.

Apart from the risk of explosion, it seems the HC are far better than R134 or even R12. Some people say that the overall investment in R134 is so huge, the HC's will just have to wait.

From what I know now, I would be very hesitant using a HC type refrigerant in my car.

Rob

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bluerebl:
ChevelleCLM, the only reason I can think of how you have kept from blowing you system is that there was very little R-12 in the system to begin with. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

? Have you ever mixed them? I have and they work fine. My 1980 datsun pickup stopped cooling. I added 1 can of 134, and it works perfectly. My buds 84 chevy van? totally dry no pressure, Dumped in 134 with no conversion claning or anything and it cools fine. I am fairly confident that neither is flammable.
I am speaking from experience here. I did not believe it until I tried it either. and besides, what do you have to loose? You can spend the 15 bucks on 3 cans of 134, and your AC will probbally work, and if it does not you can pull it apart and do it the correct way.


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350 TBI EFI 4speed 12bolt 3.73's
Bench Blue w/black inter. 14.5@90mph
"UNACCEPTABLE!!!!!" Beldar

My 69 Chevelle (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Chevelle1.jpg)

If you want to spend all the $ to "convert" your system then go ahead, but all you really need is a dryer(20 bucks) an Adapter fitting, a hose, and 3 cans of 134. Clean out all your R-12 oil and replace with some 134 oil, and you will be set. If you do not nothing bad will happen. NOTHING!!!! I have done this at least 2 times!!!!
The only thing that the manufacturers say is not compatable in the systems is the Oils, and IMHO I think thats BS. 12 and 134 are both gases and they will mix, and no bad things will result.

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350 TBI EFI 4speed 12bolt 3.73's
Bench Blue w/black inter. 14.5@90mph
"UNACCEPTABLE!!!!!" Beldar

My 69 Chevelle (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Chevelle1.jpg)

The reason 134a and R-12 are not compatable is due primarily to the oils and the way each type of refrigerant carries oil through the system. You wouldn't start your LS-6, 396,or 350 when the crankcase is dry would you? I don't have my manuals with me right now but I know different oils mix differently with different refrigerants. There is also issues with the seals in the system breaking down because they were not meant to be used with the 134a oils. Sure some systems will operate for awhile, but will fail sooner than later. Also highly recomended is to have a proper vacuum pulled on the sealed system after it has been evacuated and totally cleared of R-12. This is true for all refrigerant systems. This vacuum will remove all air which carries moisture and is detrimental to any system. "Beer Can Cold" is a term that is now outdated. Please don't think I'm pointing any fingers at anyone, but if it is going to be done right the recomended steps should be followed.

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70 Malibu 307
Semper Fi
Support our troops

This topic may be beaten to death, but there is also the issue of hoses. R134 operates at a higher pressure and a "barrier" hose is used in the newer systems to prevent seepage. The older cars may not have any seepage problems because the oil has soaked the hose and created a barrier, but if the hoses are attached with worm drive clamps, they may not hold the pressure. Also the evaporator temperature sensor that turns the compressor on and off or the vacuum diaphram that bleeds off compressor pressure in the older cars need to be recalibrated for maximum performance. There are companies that sell the components needed to make the change over to R134 successful and long lasting. The website Aircondition.com has a forum where you can get this information.

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65 Danube Blue 4 door wagon, 350/330hp crate with 700R4, Factory air, Factory am/fm stereo.