Recently purchased a 68 chevelle, 454 block,4 bolt mains, 427 crank,TRW forged 11:25-1 pistons, 454 open chamber-rectangle ports W/ stainless manley valves,offenhauser supersonic intake,W/ a holly 1050 dominator- According to the sale sheet, this engine has a "CAM: >500 lift-.515 intake-340 duration- SOLID LIFTERS" I removed the intake to replace a leaky gasket, the lifters sure do look like hydraulics- lifter bore has a internal snap ring, drilled oil passage midway in the lifter body, some of the lifter pistons are further in the lifter bore than others, yet they have the valve lash set at .025, what is this? I`m thinking of just pulling this cam out and replacing it, what is the largest cam I can use in this engine with solids, :::

You can do a quick test to see if the lifters are solids. Just pick an exhaust valve and close down the lash to 0, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn, no more. Start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds. If it misses and don't smooth out, they're solids. The solid lifter will hold the valve off the seat. Don't run it very long or you'll burn the valve. If the idle smooths out, they're hydraulics. The lifter will gradually depress to 0 lash. BTW, most solids also have the retaining clips and oil holes.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575

There might be some merit to swapping out the cam and putting one in that a known quantity. You'll want to stay fairly long duration to help with the 11.5:1 sqeeze and the fact that with those heads , your mill will give its best pull from 3500-7500+.

Crane F304-2 238/248, .544/.567, 114 lsa ( mild idle) or same grind on a 108 lsa ( wicked idle). Also the old L88 camshaft from GMPP would work well, but it pick up the rpm range from 4-7000.

Also check this site: ultradyne.com (http://ultradyne.com)

You should pick lift up to close to .600, BUT also check your piston to valve clearance with the new cam.

The hole in the side is for the oil path for the pushrod/rocker arm. Like Von said, most solids have removable inserts. Allows machining, cleaning and assembly. Sounds like you have it opened up. Pull a lifter apart and check it. (Remember it will need to be dry to reassemble if it is hydraulic)

Most companies put the part number / grind number on the end of the cam. Once you have removed the timing cover etc... you should be able to see the number's. Then you'll know what exactly you have there. As Gene say's though... Depending on what you want to do, you might consider a cam swap that will suit you're needs. You don't really want a big block that is built to run in the 4000-7000 area all the time.

Post up what your Transmission and rear end gear is and some of the guy's here will be better able to help you. Sounds like you have quite the rat there.

Hope it Helps

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Steve Soltesz
Something about me & Canadian Car's....
Team Chevelle Gold Member #37
64 Malibu SS (ZZ4/TH350, Show'n Go)
68 Beaumont (396/TH400 Street/Strip)
69 Beaumont (307/TH350)
80 Camaro (Mrs.64's 355/TH350 Show'n Go)
WebSite http://www.magma.ca/~ssoltesz (To be Updated Soon)

The chevelle has a 12 bolt posi. W/ 4:56 gears, A built TH400 W/ manual valve body,5000stall- It IS quite quick to say the least

Just took a lifter apart, SOLIDS, MUCH TO WORRY ABOUT NOTHING- The engine is fresh and I was a little worried that someone fell asleep at the switch, Thanks to you all for your help, great place to go when you have Questions. I`ve had what, 4 or 5 responses here, in a matter of hours, It`s been a day & a half since I called the builders in Chicago, still no phone call or E-MAIL!!! THANKS AGAIN VERY MUCH If I can ever do anyone any good, I`m in the Green-Bay Wisc. Area :D :D