just got all my new ac parts in including condensor and evap im planning on 134a system
i hear of people not using a expansion valve and putting in a orfice tube along with a POA eliminator i know from experience that the old POA and expansion valves have had loads of trouble where would a man go to purchase this orfice setup ive been unable to locate any setups to purchase

Ron,
I have a totally different viewpoint on the r12 vs r134 deal, especially on older cars. My wifes 83 Riviera has all the original AC stuff on it and has never had a problem in 18 years. My 1985 Blazer had all the oem stuff when I sold it in 1999, never leaked or had any AC problems. Matter of fact, I have never had a car that has had an AC problem since I started driving in 1966.
My point is, even though the price of R12 is getting pretty steep...it really should be a once in a lifetime deal for most of our hot rods. The system was designed for R-12 and will work better with it. Why not leave it that way ?? I know that if something happened to the Riviera and it needed repairing, thats what I would be doing. Same thing if my Chevelle had AC.
I know this has nothing to do with your question, but just thought I would give another point of view.

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100

ron
I believe that these folks: http://www.oldairproducts.com/ can help you. Its not on the web site, but I talked to them about a replacement valve last year.

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Rick
72 El Camino (http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html)
TPI350/700r4 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/ricks%20motor%20-L)
TC#00038
ACES#00140

Was your compressor trash? R-134 is .35 cents an ounce. R-12 is $2.25 an ounce and your system holds somewhere around 2 pounds. Like Bill said if it works ok just charge it and go. If it needs a compressor and evaporater then definitly change it to R-134 now. R-12 is starting to get hard to find. Maybe look at at an air parts supply house for the change over parts.

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KJ
I don't make rules I just play the game!
1968 Chevelle (http://www.allwest.net/~kerryj)

I don't have any trouble finding R-12, the only thing that is tough is the price.

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Leo Paugh
Maryland Chevelle Club #017
A.C.E.S.#3731
there is only one way to fail, and thats to quit.
Maryland Chevelle Club (http://www.clark.net/pub/chevelle/mcc.htm)
MCC-ACES NORTHEAST REGIONALS (http://chevelle.veriotraining.com/mcc/mccsho01.htm)

Just a thought

If you put in a test charge of something cheaper like R-22 or nitrogen (don't turn it on) and get all the leaks located and repaired then evacuate the system, the R-12 charge should last for a long time

Hotshot works as good as R-12 and is a "drop in" that is much cheaper but you can't "top it off"
If the charge gets low, it has to be totally
evacuated and re-charged


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Dean Call
Team Gold member #3
A.C.E.S. # 00235
Mid America Chevelle Club (http://macc.chevelles.net) #001
chevelles.net (http://chevelles.net)
My 69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/deans69.jpg)

ACES/Midwest Chevelle Regionals (http://www.madmikesstuff.com/Chevelle2001.htm)

A soft answer turns away wrath, but a harsh word stirs up anger.

Dump 3 cans of 134 in on the low side, and if it works, use it, if it leaks fix it, and if it does not leak or work, get a POA update valve, and leave your expansion valve alone. The only reason Our Chevelles do not like the 134 is because the POA valve is for 12 pressures, and it mostly does not work with 134 pressures.
My advice is to Relocate that POA to the nearest trash receptical and put in a Update valve. That will make your system a Cycling system with a pressure switch, and you will have frosty 134 Cheap AC!

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350 4speed 12bolt 3.73's
Bench Blue w/black inter. 14.5@90mph

Well, I don't want to step on anybodies toes here ,but R12 should be history, 134 will do fine and should be used even if modifications are required to use it.

Respectfully, Big James

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Elcaminos are special!
I'd rather walk around with a Chevrolet hubcap in my hand than drive a Ford


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