No Voltage Past Starter " Final Phase" [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: No Voltage Past Starter " Final Phase"


Chevyhouse
Sep 13th, 03, 5:13 PM
On my previuos post I was uncertain on my hi torque starter wiring. Thought I needed a diode in line from starter to coil but was not the case. Staerted up with no wire to "R" nor a diode, points distributor and all.
My last problem is an always on generator light. New components: alternator (Durolast DL7122), regulator w/ terminals numbered 1-2-3-4 not 2-3-4-R and starter, (Powermaster 9000)
I noticed there is an un-used terminal on my alternator, wierd. I have performed an earlier posted test and the results are as follows:
1)Removed reg plug, turned ign. on, had 12.02v from brown to ground. reconnected
2)Removed plug from alt, tuned ign. on, had 11.4v from blue to ground. reconnected
3)Started engine and got 12.8v from alt. blue to ground.
I'm not sure what these #'s reveal. Please advise.
Other readings: Battery 12.02v ign off, 14.3 engine running and Alt red to ground 14.8v. engine running

Peter F.
Sep 13th, 03, 11:03 PM
You have 14V at the alternator output when it's running so it really is charging even though the light say's it isn't. I'd be willing to bet that you have an electronic regulator and the regulator has been damaged so that it won't turn off the light.

Because of the design of a mechanical regulator it is physically impossible for the regulator to be charging and yet leave the light on. I guess there could be someone making one that would do this but the ones I have looked at can not do what you describe.

And the terminals on the regulator are actually commonly numbered F 2 3 4.

Peter

Chevyhouse
Sep 14th, 03, 1:56 AM
Thanks Peter, I'll try to find a mechanical regulator.
You and others like you are God-sent to us who love the hobby but need some help. I could'nt do what I've done without you guys.

Peter F.
Sep 14th, 03, 7:39 PM
I wasn't implying that the mechanical regulator was better just that that can't happen with all (most?) mechanical regulators. I think the Wells electronic regulator is probably about the best one to use since the electronic will be more accurate and responsive. And it's quite cheap too. Part number VR715 I believe.

Peter