The turn signals on my 68 ElCamino haven't worked since I bought the car. I just finished restoring the interior and was hoping they'd work after cleaning and reseating all the plugs on the wiring harness.

I cleaned all the sockets for the parking lights and tail lights and they all work. I don't get anything for the left or right side when I put the turn signals on.

Suggestions as to where I start troubleshooting this? Thanks.


------------------
Ed
'68 El Camino (Current Project)
'66 Caddy Conv (Cruiser)
'87 Vette Conv (Daily Driver)

[This message has been edited by 68Elkie (edited 11-11-2002).]

Perhaps the flasher can has died. It's under the dash beween the column and the radio. See if it has any voltage on the connector pins or just change it out. Buy the $3.00 ones at the auto parts stores. Should work in that car.

Thanks John. At least I have somewhere to start. I'll pick up a new flasher tomorrow and let you know if that fixes it.

Realized I had a spare can in another car. Swapped it out but still no flashers. Checked four-ways, and they don't work either.

With the key turned on, I get .4 volts at the can terminals. No change to that reading with turn signals turned on or off.

Next step ?

One of the wires into the can should be a pink. When measured to ground you only see .4 volts? Are your back-up lights working?

The .4v was across the terminals. I just measured the pink to ground and am getting .35v at all turn signal switch settings. And you're right, my backup lights are not working either.
--
Ed

I going to assume that you did the measurement with the ignition key to ON. The turn signals won't work with the key in the OFF position.
The reason I asked about the back-up lights is that the same pink wire that goes to the turn signal can also goes to the back-up light switch. Also this pink wire is the input to the turn signal can. It doesn't matter if you work the turn signal switch on the column or not. There should always be 12 volts on the pink as long as the ignition switch is on.
I'd next check to see if there is power on the pink wire at the neutral safety switch. The back-up lights may have another problem and checking here will eliminate that possibility. Test must be done with the key on.
On the top of the steering column, under the dash, towards the bottom, you should see the NSS. It is curved or horse shoe shaped. There is a connector on it with a pink and green wire. This is the pink that needs to be measured to ground.
If there is no 12 volts, it's down to the fuse block. The pink wire(s) come from there. The right hand fuses are all switched items that only work with the key on. Possible dirty fuse clip. Scratch into the fuse clips with a probe or something so that you have clean metal. Measure all the right hand fuses and clips with your meter. With the key on, you should have 12 volts on both sides of all the fuses.
See where that gets you to.

I checked the wires back to the fuse box, and the fuse was blown - but don't curse me yet, I know I put a new fuse in !

I put another fuse in and got a constant clicking from the can with the turn signal switch in all positions - no lights. Now this was the new can I bought years ago for my 66 Caddy that I put in last night.

I put the original (old) can back on, and the new fuse blew (I knew I had replaced it - it must've blown the first time I turned the key on.) So, off to Advance Auto for more fuses and another can.

New fuse, no can, switch on. 12v at the pink to ground. No backup lights.

Switch off, new can put on. Turned on the ignition and watched the fuse glow and blow - the highlight of my day.

Checked continuity of the purple wire (on the can plug) to ground, and there's no resistance at all. I'd expect some resistance if this is routed to bulbs. So, what's next?
--
Ed

It just occurred to me that the reason the fuse didn't blow with the can that kept clicking, was because the element in it was heating up and breaking the circuit quicker than the fuse could blow. Is this plausible?

There's no element in the can. Remember these are cheap $3.00 parts. Nothing but a bi-metal contact much the same as Christmas lights work on. You still need a solid 12 volts into the can (pink wire).

The bi-metal contact is what I meant by the 'element' in the can. Just like a xmas light, it heats up, and breaks contact until it cools down. Just thought that this one can (out of three) did it fast enough to keep the fuse from blowing.

But back to my problem... Am I looking for a short to ground somewhere in the purple wire coming out of the can? In trying to follow the wiring diagram, it looks like the purple wire goes to the Turn Signal Switch. I'm thinking the turn signal switch routes it to DBL or LBL in the front and LG or Y in the rear depending on whether it's Right or Left.

So, is this where I should be checking for a short, in these wires coming out of the NSS? Or can I assume the Purple wire's grounded somewhere since it blows the fuse with the turn signal switch off? Do I need to take my steering wheel off to check the turn signal switch?


[This message has been edited by 68Elkie (edited 11-12-2002).]

Don't move so fast. First figure out that the input to the can is correct. Even without the can plugged in you should have 12 volts on the pink wire. Is it there?

I'm getting 12v on the pink - see my 8:33PM post.

"New fuse, no can, switch on. 12v at the pink to ground. No backup lights.
Checked continuity of the purple wire (on the can plug) to ground, and there's no resistance at all."

So now where do I go ?

Ok, I see it. Just didn't read back far enough. My error.
Try unplugging the long strip connector coming from the turn signal switch. It's on the top of the column.
Try good fuse, can installed again and measure the purple wire. See if you have 12 volts again and the fuse doesn't pop.
*EDIT*
Have both your brake lights been working?

[This message has been edited by John_Muha (edited 11-13-2002).]

John - problem solved. Thanks for sticking with me on this one and getting me to the steering column. Here's a picture of the wire that was crushed when someone bolted the steering column up.
http://www.myairplants.com/pics/CrushedWire.jpg
Following your advice, I disconnected the long connector at the steering column and was getting 12v on the purple with the can in without blowing the fuse. I checked the purple going into the steering column and it was grounded - assumed it was the switch. I pulled the wheel and switch assembly out of the column and it was still grounded - not the switch - it had to be somewhere in the column.

I took the column brackets off and found the purple wire (and the yellow one) had been crushed when someone tightened the nuts on the column and there was a small spot where the insulation was cut through.

Reconnected everything and I had lights, but they weren't blinking! Put the new can in that I bought and they're blinking now. Guess I didn't waste my money buying a new flasher after all.

Thanks again John - now for my backup lights, but I'll start a new post...
It's too cold to do anymore out there tonight.
--
Ed

Yeah I sort off got lost on this reply.
"Checked continuity of the purple wire (on the can plug) to ground, and there's no resistance at all. I'd expect some resistance if this is routed to bulbs."

With six bulbs in there it should have been a very low resistance. Glad you found it. After the fuse problem, figured it was beyond the input harness wiring.
*EDIT*
Waste money? Hope you bought the 3 dollar flasher.

[This message has been edited by John_Muha (edited 11-13-2002).]