ok, i'm looking to get an electric fan for my mild 327 in my 68 malibu. Did some research, and decided to look for some Ford Taurus fans. I think i got the right one. It is out of a '92 taurus wagon($22.50 at the pick n pull), has 3 wires. Has 2 speeds and a ground, right? Before i buy evrything else to do this(relays, higher output alt,controller) i just want to make sure i have the right part. Here are some pics:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/252000-252999/252044_17_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/252000-252999/252044_18_full.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~hmficgts/twospeed.jpg

That's one, alright. Here's a simple 2-speed control.

What if this happens?

http://img17.exs.cx/img17/6540/twospeed20de.jpg

:D

If you move the caps to the other side of the fusable links you should be ok, maybe, I think. Or replace coil R3 with a 'hte' coil, yea that should do it.

EDIT: sorry, those looked like capacitors, not coils

Originally posted by Dean:
What if this happens?

http://img17.exs.cx/img17/6540/twospeed20de.jpg

:D How would that happen in the course of normal operation?

What's an hte coil?

sorry to say, but i'm not very good at schematics graemlins/clonk.gif Not quite sure what is expressed in those drawings. Is there a 12V constant and a 12v switched to each coil on the fan? Also where did the 2rd coil come from :confused: You'll have to bear with me, i'm not too good w/ electrical stuff.

The fan is the box marked fan. The coils are the three relay coils, the HI coil controls the HI speed contact, the LO coil controls the LO speed contact, and R3 coil controls the switchover. The 12v switched is so the fan will go off when you turn off the key.

When the engine is cold, neither the 190° or the 210° switches are closed and both HI and LO contacts are open. When the 190° switch closes, the LO coil is energized through the NC contacts of Relay3 and the LO contacts close. If the temperature goes high enough, the 210° switch closes and actuates Relay3, opening the NC contacts, dropping out the LO speed relay, closing the NO contacts and energizing the HI relay coil. This puts the fan in HI speed operation.

As the temperature is reduced and the 210° switch opens, Relay3 drops out, the HI coil is deenergized, the HI contacts drop out, the LO coil is energized again and you transition to low speed. If the temperature drops below the 190° switch point, the fan will turn off completely.

Originally posted by onovakind67:
How would that happen in the course of normal operation?

What's an hte coil? I don't know, I couldn't figure out the relationship between the two sets of N.O. contacts in the top diagram with anything in the bottom diagram.
Just wondering "what if?"

I don't know what an hte coil is.

HI contacts and HI coil, LO contacts and LO coil. When you energize the coil, the contacts close. Regular electrical stuff.

Yeah I think I understood after you explained it.
There are three relays, R1 with one N.O. set, R2 with one N.O. set and R3 with one N.C. set, correct?

R3 has a form C contact, a normally open and a normally closed set with a common connection, breaking the NO before making the NC and vice versa. This is what keeps the LO and HI relays from being on at the same time.

:cool: graemlins/thumbsup.gif

What's your opinion of letting the fan run on low after the engine is shut off?
I'm thinking maybe most "gravity flow" water circulation would stop when the thermostat closes.

In a normal car I don't see any need for running the fan after the engine is off.

just get the controller from dccontrol.com, I have this unit along with the same fan you have installed on my Diesel pickup and it never sucks more than 5 amps of juice (tested) it runs the fan at a required speed to keep the engine cool enough (usually just barely spinning the fan) I'm going the same route on my 70 malibu also (I installed it on my Truck to test it out)Just hook up the controller to the "hidh speed" wire. My truck only has a 65 amp alternator also (old 83' ford diesel) and I have no dimming of lights with it. All other "fan kits" run the fan at 100% at all times sucking 30-35amps when its on.

http://www.dccontrol.com/3516in1.gif

It's a very nice system for $110, maybe a little overkill on a $25 fan. 5 amps will get you about 2000 cfm. If you need the extra cooling you pay the current price. Low speed on the Taurus fan draws about 10 amps @ 14.4v, hardly enough to overtax a 65 amp alternator. Most systems I've installed seldom see high speed.

i've got a bigger sound system(12in sub, 2-6x9's, 2-mids,2-tweeters, and two amplifiers), so it looks like i will be getting a bigger alternator to start things off. Besides the stereo system, i have an MSD ign, and all the reg stock stuff(wipers, signals, headlight...ect), what size alternator should i get? Right now, i believe there is an internally regulated one on there. it has 1 large guage wire and a plug with 2 or 3(can't remember off the top of my head) wires coming out of it. Don't see an external regulator. Which alternator could i get just to do a quick swap? Also, do i need to "beef up" any wires to handle the higher output?

That the same fan I have on my 69 with the LT1 It has to have the power to the low fan drop out when the high fan kicks on. I've never heard the high fan come on though. They also shut off at around 45 mph.

In regards to that fan, please note that you can also change the "clocking" of the motor to adjust where the wires come out. I JUST installed that exact same fan into my Camaro. I had to do a little trimming of the shroud, but otherwise, it is like that fan was made for my radiator!

I removed the 3 screws that retain the motor to the shroud, and then rotated it until the wires come out pointing down. Just made for a neater appearance.

Had been struggling with how to wire the thing up, but now I guess I have my answer!

One thing though, I understand the wiring schematic, but where do I get the 190 deg. and 210 deg. switches, and what amperage rating relay can I use? I have heard that the standard 30 Amp relays are NOT to be used with this fan in the high speed mode! Can I double two 30 AMP relays up and run them in parallel? Will that work?

Can anyone please confirm this information?

Oh one more thing.. Has anyone come up with a neat way to affix the fan to the radiator?

I don't want to tell you how I ended up affixing mine.. Let's just say it's not pretty, and is only temporary until I can find a cleaner looking method to hold the fan in place.

Sorry for stealing the post!

Ok. I have more good news. I have a F*&D product here on the lot that has the 2 speed fan in it. Lincoln Mark VIII with the 4.6L motor. I have traced the wiring for the fan back to the relays and guess what I found? Ford installed only TWO relays! One marked 12V 10A, and the second marked 12V 20A. I would have to surmise that the the 10A is for low speed, and the 20A is for high speed. there is a jumper wire that carries power from one relay to the other, and one power supply wire going into the 20A relay. The only other wires present are 4 thin strand 16 gauge wires that I assume are the + & - used to trigger the relays, and the power lead for each speed on the fan.

My guess is that the computer triggers which relay is activated, and since the computer controls it there is no way for both relays to be active at the same time. I am going to the Salvage yard to acquire the relays and wiring harness so that my wiring will be much simplified.

Anyone else making any progress on this? Anybody figure out what sensors to use for a 190 & 210 deg. trigger yet? Those are the only other items that I need. Anybody?

I found this schematic for the 2-speed fans. The relays are 30 amp i think. Will this work?
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/252000-252999/252044_19_full.gif

In that example, it looks like the adjustable thermostat has 2 separate triggers. I used to have an adjustable regulator, but it only had one trigger lead. I guess I need to research that.

I just used 4 heavy steel straps about 1/2" wide and bent them to mount to the radiator side mounts and then go inside of the shroud and bolt up from the inside. Theres probably close to a 1/4" gap between the rad and the shroud. Make sure you pull the drain plug out of the radiator before you try to lay it down.
I ran the low fan power through the NC terminals of the hi fan relay. When the hi fan kicks on, it switches the power off to the low fan. This was with a PCM but the theory is the same using a dual temp sending unit.