Ok, here's the scoop:

I currently live 3 blocks from my office, but at the end of July, I'm moving. At that point, I'll be making a 20-30 min drive (20 on the way in at 4:45 am, 30 on the way home at 5:00 pm).

Since I've not driven to work in 7 years, this will be a slight change. In the good weather, I'll be using the Chevelle (68 300D, 250L6, PG) and I'm considering some upgrades to make it a bit safer to drive.

Currently, it's bone stock. 4 wheel drums, basic suspension, stock rims, etc.

Without getting into too much expense or time, what would you recommend for upgrades? The first thing I'm doing is a new set of rims. Partly for looks, part for handling. They'll be 15x8 v 14x6.

So, what's next? Brakes? Sway bars? Boxed arms?

Any thoughts?

Thanks, Kurt

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The 68 Chevelle info page. [last updated Nov. 30, 98]
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html)
Email: Kbyfield@terracom.net
A.C.E.S. #1352

If you're just using it to drive to work it sounds pretty safe to drive now,as long as the parts you mention are in working order.If you want to hop on it once in a while then I would start with wider wheels as you said and work on the improvments to the suspention.

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JoeS
"67 Malibu"

Everything's in good condition. I've already done springs, shocks, and ball joints as part of the resto process.

The wheels are mostly for my own satisfaction as they look much better than the stock size. The rims are the same (basic steel w/dog dish caps), but larger/wider.

Since it's an L6, and always will be, getting on it isn't an option. I'm just thinking of things such s highway use, etc.

If time permits, I plan to redo the rearend bushings this winter, and hopefully add a sway bar with either boxed arms or inserts.

kurt

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The 68 Chevelle info page. [last updated Nov. 30, 98]
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html)
Email: Kbyfield@terracom.net
A.C.E.S. #1352

Kurt,

I don't know how your commute will go but mine, on the way home especially, can be bumper to bumper. And that means the old "accordian" syndrome. My late model Olds with 4 wheel discs has saved me on a few occasions from bumping the car ahead of me.
My '67 is just barely on the road and I haven't driven her to work yet, but I will keep a huge interval between me and the car ahead. Drums just ain't that good. To reiterate Skip's advice, replace them with discs unless it's a concours resto. I haven't done this yet because I'll do the new kit from Stainless ( a local co ) for $800.

My 396 probably won't like stop and go in 90 heat either, but your 6 should be fine.

Hope this helps.

Gene Chas
TC Gold 062
'67 SS 396

Disc brakes would be a good idea. I just finished installing them on my '70 (377 with a TH-350). Gas mileage is not that great, but it stops much easier than it did with drums. The kit only took one day to install... it was very painless. As far as the suspension, PST has a great kit, and its install is also very painless...

I would install the brakes before the suspension, but it would be nice to do it all at once.

Good luck!

Thanks for the input.

Questions on the brakes:

Are you going with 2 or 4 wheel setups? gramted, 4 wheel is the ultimate, but would I really need that for non race applications?

Also, are the pads & rotors a standard item? Meaning, if I buy a kit from Stainless or Baer (or whomever), will I forever be stuck buying pads & rotors from them too?

Thanks, Kurt

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The 68 Chevelle info page. [last updated Nov. 30, 98]
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html)
Email: Kbyfield@terracom.net
A.C.E.S. #1352

I went with the front disc only. I'll eventually run my car at the strip near Houston, but I don't think I will ever go fast enough to "require" 4 wheel disc.

As far as the brake pads go, I would think you could pick them up at your local parts house. Just be sure and bring the old pads with you and match the new ones to them. Anyone can turn the rotors for you, but as far as replacement, I don't know.

The folks at SS brakes were very helpful when I called. They were also a little less expensive than Baer. Give 'em a call.

Keep us posted.

There were a few good discussions about drum vs disc brakes and daily drivers recently, check for them.

I'll put in a vote for front discs, but I my car had them standard and I didn't have to pay $829 for them (PST's "stock" full replacent kit)

For actual saftey checkover, start with all your steel brake lines and the three rubber hoses. I've blown a line while driving, not fun. Check your body mounts and rad support for any rusty or weak spots, also frame etc. Check the fuel lines and gas tank need to be checked out. Classic Tube has full steel brake line sets for your car for $150 they also have the fuel lines etc. PST has full sets for your rear suspension and also full brake rebuild kits for drums or for disc swaps, and gas tanks as well. This is all stuff I have had problems with except for frame rot. Check the tranny crossmember also, I bent mine in half after I took it out.
If all that stuff checks out, you can drive to work with a clear concience.

Frank

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[This message has been edited by 73Malibu (edited 06-30-99).]

I would just drive it as is. The car has had the drums for 30+yrs. If they were that inferior the car would of been wrecked years ago. I used to drive my freinds Skylark at the track. It had 4 wheel drums. It could do close to 110 in the quater. I never had any problems making the first turn off.

P.S. You get better gas mileage with drums.

How would the style of brakes affect milage, other then from a weight standpoint?

True, the drums have lasted 30 years, and they stop the car just fine right now, but the disks are simply better brakes. And the law of averages says that the more miles you drive, the greater the odds of having an accident. Since I'll be going from driving 0 miles per week to about 200-250 per week (only taking into account my commute), sooner or later I'm going to have to stand on the brakes.

Of course, a lot of this is hypathetical. I may find out that I just don't like commuting in the Chevelle and will end up back in the Accord. Not saying one car is better or worse, but the CD player and the AC do come in handy, esp. in August, while stuck in traffic http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Kurt

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The 68 Chevelle info page. [last updated Nov. 30, 98]
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html)
Email: Kbyfield@terracom.net
A.C.E.S. #1352



[This message has been edited by Byfield (edited 06-30-99).]

Kurt, I just called SS Brakes (716)759-8666 and their kit uses a standard "D-52" GM pad. They quoted me 895 for the kit.

Discs have residual friction. Spin a front tire on your Honda ( whoops that;s FWD ) or on a front disc car and you'll probably get 1/4 of a rotation. I can spin the front tire on my '67 and probably get 1 1/4 rotations. The disc pads are always in contact with the rotors to some extent. Drums are much "freer".

Remember that most of your stopping power is required in the front of the car. That's why the front disc/rear drum is so common.

Anyway, as I thought of my commute, this is the first issue that popped into my mind.

Also, the loss of A/C and CD as you mentioned.My 67 will never have those options. It was bought as a bare bones muscle/drag car in 1967 and will remain that way under my care. But its nice to have cold air and a Stevie Ray Vaughn serenade!

Gene Chas
'67 SS 396



[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 06-30-99).]

Thanks for the info gene. Knowing that the parts are easily available make me feel better.

the AC/CD comment was about how my Honda has them, and my Chevelle doesn't (and never will). I may decide that they're both good to have while stuck in traffic. whoops, you edited while I was writing, and I see you knew what I ment

On the other hand, if I have the Chevelle, I may find myself taking the twisty back roads home instead of the highway.

kurt, SRV fan from way back. Saw the 1st of his last 2 shows.

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The 68 Chevelle info page. [last updated Nov. 30, 98]
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html)
Email: Kbyfield@terracom.net
A.C.E.S. #1352



[This message has been edited by Byfield (edited 06-30-99).]

Well Kurt sounds like you want to put in the front discs, you should be pleased with the results. I don't drive my Chevelle to work every day mostly due to the gas mileage and wear and tear issues. But I do get sick of my 151 powered Lumina at least few days a month. BTW my Malibu was originally a 250 powered sled and was slower than the Lumina. You should get ok mileage with the 250 though the PG does hurt some. I had a 72 Ventura (PontiNova) with 250/PG but never cracked 20 MPG. also had a 71 Vent with 250/ Three on the tree, that was fun but gave it to a buddy I also had a 74 Oldsmonova with a rocket 350 ac unfinned front drums and 14" bias plys. That car could get scary going down hill. Never had a real Nova.
I also saw SRV a few months B4 he died, great show even though it was in a tropical downpour.

Frank

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Adding my 0.02, A number of years ago I was driving my 72 Malibu home from work in the rain. Well, we all know to be careful in this type of weather, but, as luck would have it I found all roads a little flooded. I decided that the water was'nt deep enough to worry about so, I drove through no problem. Yes Problem, while the water was 2-3 in. it was the distance that hurt. By the time I was ready to stop the car was'nt! Now in a perfect world we can all say that we wont drive our babies in bad weather but, the sad fact is that this stuff does happen I will forever have disc on all of my cars.
nuff said!!

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Jungle Jim #105 Gold
"Life is a highway and I
wanna drive it all night
long"

Hey 406Chevelle,
I don't really think drums are adequate for modern driving. Think about all the awesome brake technology that most of the newer cars on the road are equipped with. Maybe the drums would be adequate among a fleet of similarly-equipped cars in 1966, but I'd hate to slam into someone on the freeway because his 4-wheel disc, ABS-equipped Z28 made a panic stop that I couldn't follow up with my 66 GS. I hardly ever drive the GS because the brakes are so damn scary. 480+ft-lbs of torque is fun to have but stopping is a religious experience. As a comparison, my 70 SS with stock 11-inch discs in front seems to be more than adequate for sane driving. I'll eventually step up to 12" rotors in front with Seville discs in back, but for now I don't have any problems. I'd definitely invest in a factory-type disc setup for that 68. One is afforded only so many close calls...

Kurt, never saw SRV - one of my woulda coulda shouldas of life. Big bummer. He touches my soul. I am ex-bassist and the blues was my passion. I never heard anything like him. I don't know if you know the felling of getting into a seriuos jam and starting to utter pure expression that are "more" than just you - like sub conscious. SRV did that every time he picked up his axe - but I digress.

Right now i have all drum brakes on my 68 Chevelle, which I don't intend on messing with any time soon since I got em perfectly bled, work great, and it only goes out once in awhile.
I've gotta admit disc brakes are just plain better, no dispute there. If I were to drive my Chevelle in modern traffic, I'd put bigger tires on the front, and switch to disc.
Course, I don't have much money to put into my Chevelle at the moment, so I'd probably just make sure everything was working in proper order so there'd be no surprises at a bad time.

Tony

[This message has been edited by Ox68 (edited 07-01-99).]