Ok heres the deal. I have a 66 Malibu with a 350. I have about $1000 to spend and not sure what to do next. There is a lot for the car i want:

Engine has:
Performer Cam
Performer Intake
Stock heads
Mallory ignition
Hedman Headers
Edelbrock Carb
*** should i buy some heads? Vortec? or what?***

Trany:
M20 stock shifter
*** wouldnt mind a hurst shifter***

Rear:
10 bolt open 3.08
*** Want a 12 bolt posi with 3.73 or 4.11***

Suspension:
Rebuilt front end with all poly
Rear stock
*** would like to do rear susp. with boxed arms and sway bar, maybe a sway bar up front too.***

Brakes:
good 4 way drums
*** Front disks?***

*** wouldnt mind a new rear bumper either***

Obviously i cant have it all, so what would you do, Performance is most important to me. Im 18 http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif



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Jon, 66 Malibu Sport Coupe
Fremont CA, Birthplace of many a Chevelle
Team Chevelle Member #80
members.tripod.com/jon66bu/jon1.html (http://members.tripod.com/jon66bu/jon1.html)

Hey JON66,
You have a nice ride for being 18, not a knock, just don't see that very often.

If it was me, and I lived in Lompoc Ca. while I was in the service, the brakes are mucho important. There a lot of nutty birds in this world and they seem to flock to Ca. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Might try a front disk swap, going the used parts route. Might be able to get that in under $400, less if you scrounge hard for it.

After that a lot of guys I know like to start from the rear of the drive train and work forward.

Like stuffing a lock-right in the 10 bolt you have for better launches, new poly bushings, after rear market sway bar. Course you might want new u-joints, shocks, etc. Might use up the rest of your $$. 12 bolts for your year are hard to come by, so I hear.

Um...you aren't taking your car to UCLA are you?

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DG
Springfield, Ohio
70 Chevelle Malibu

www.wright.edu/~s001dga/chevy.htm (http://www.wright.edu/~s001dga/chevy.htm)

TEAM Chevelle Member #0086

Jon,

I just took my 67 out for a ride and although I rebuilt the brakes ( meaning it's done right ) they suck compared to modern discs. And even though I want to keep my '67 as close to original as possible, Skip Cain said it , "if it isn't a concours quality resto, go for discs". But that's not where I'd start. The Stainless Brakes kit is 800.

My stock Muncie shifter was very, very "soft", compared to a used, but excellent, CompPlus I bought from Wally. I had a prob since the tranny was actually a later Muncie(arms didn't work) and his shifter won't work with my console. So I have to buy a new one anyway. The cost was $55 for Wally's shifter and $110 for the install kit. It would be $200 out of a $1000 very well spent. If you don't have a console, I'll sell you Wally's ( it's mint )shifter for $55. ( You'll need a new ball - it's worn )

Second, unless you really ream on it the 10 should hold behind your small block. I beat the Sh&3 out of an open 10 and it never failed ( the wheel spin takes away the energy required to break something ). A posi carrier and a new gear set would run you about $500?? ( plus seals and bearings if required). Then I definitely spring for boxed lower arms or SSM lifts. They say you'll feel a big diff in everyday handling. That's about $200 or less.

How much of your bread did I spend, $170 for shifter and install kit, $500 for posi upgrade and $200 for rear suspension upgrade. If you shop around maybe you can get an anti-sway for the ass and come up to $1000.

Between the much firmer shifts, better control, and better acceleration, I think you'll have spent the grand well.

Gene Chaas
TC Gold 62
'67 SS 396
Buffalo, NY - birthpalce of many a BBC but I wished I lived in Monterey CA where I was stationed!

Edit: I just read your post again, do the front sway first and don't do heads until you need to or the motor's apart for something else.




[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 06-30-99).]

$1000 !!!! Let's see ... I would buy a front&rear-end rebuild kit (maybe polygraphite), front and rear sway bar, front and rear shocks, keep the 10 bolt and get an aftermarket posi unit. This should take care of the $1000 maybe a little left over. If your bushings are 30+ years old, you car will handle like new and since you have an open 10 bolt, your car will launch a lot better. I would leave the motor alone for right now. Seems like a strong combo. If this is your daily driver keep the 3.08 for now. Trust me, your wallet will suffer, not to mention the higher RPM's on the motor. I have had my car since I was 17, I added a bunch of performance parts to make it loud and fast at the time. Now I am slowly changing those parts out to make it more streetable. This is just my opinion. I think a lot of people change their minds.

[This message has been edited by thornbe (edited 06-30-99).]

Hey Jon,
I agree, leave the heads where they are. I would do the shifter first. Gene sounds like he has a good deal for you! The diff. between a stocker 4 speed shifter and a Hurst Comp Plus is a dream! I put one on my 64 about a month before I sold it, it shifted like a hot knife through butter! Sweet!!! Second I would go for the disks but I would try real hard to get a complete junkyard core exchange set so you still have money left to do whatever you want!

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Steve
64SS-327-4spd-sold to Original owner!
In process of finding a 65
Team Chevelle Member #71

yep
Iwould go with the shifter and the rear.4.11 are a good all around gear,and a posi in the 10 bolt.and the hurst shifter. the car will perform better and it will shift great.need any help with the shifter?drop in, be glad to give ya some help.sounds like a cool ride.
67 rat member #199

Thanks for all the input guys.

DG... You are right about all the nuts comming here to california, disk breaks would come in handy. As taking the car to UCLA, i have nothing else to drive but if and when i take it down it probobly wont be for a semester or maybe a year.

Gene... thanks for the offer on the shifter but i have a console.

As far as getting disk breaks, i came across a set for $375 a little bit ago, have to call and see if they are still available.

Also, good to hear the 10 bolt should be strong enough, some nice 3.73 or 4.11 may be a good choice. Along with rear suspension, with new sway bars at a later date to finish it off.

I guess i will leave the engine alone for now.

Thanks for all the input, i'll start shopping around to see what i can find. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Jon

Jon, they do make a shifter to work with the console. Further, I'm going to graft on my original chrome stick so you can't tell. It is a tremendous difference you'll notice every time you drive it.

[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 06-30-99).]

If I were in your shoes and had a grand to burn, I would spend the $500-$600 on the posi rearend. Then I would spend $125 on the shifter, and then I would spend the rest on a polygraphite bushing set.

But that's just what I would do.

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Ted Stojkovski
Syracuse, NY
(aka. DA SKUNK)
Team Chevelle
Member#172

It does'nt matter how fast it is if you can't stop when you really need to!! Think front disc brakes.

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Jungle Jim #105 Gold
"Life is a highway and I
wanna drive it all night
long"

If I had $1000.00 to spend on car, I would go to the Pomona Swap Meet. It may even be possible to buy everything you want for your car for $1000.00 there. Everything you are looking for is at every swap meet there.

So when is the next swap meet. I have a shopping list of things I want for the car.

Next Fairplex swap is the 18th of July. Check www.fairplex.com (http://www.fairplex.com) Click on Fairplex events then Calender of Events, it lists everything from the computer fair to the Drags!

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Steve
64SS-327-4spd-sold to Original owner!
In process of finding a 65
Team Chevelle Member #71