We all know oil is the life blood of the car, that is why I'm asking this. I've got a 69Malibu 350/Th350. I havn't had the car long and its time for its first tune up, so the question comes, which oil should i go with for summer months and most importantly synthetic or non-sythetic and why? Oh yeah, and those oil treatments, are they any good or worth a try? Let me hear it guys.
-Wes

Well, for weight, I'd say 10-w40 is a standard choice. It works well in our Vette

Natural v. Synth? You're going to get a ton of different opinions on this, but I think most will agree that it has a lot to do with your use of the car.

If you just simply drive it, as in not racing or beating on it, I don't think there is any (good) reason to spend the much greater amount of money on synth. If you're racing it a lot, I'd look into synth as a possibility.

Keep in mind that the major advantage of synth is it's ability to resist thermal breakdown. If you're just driving the car to work or cruising, I can't see how this would ever be a serious concern.

And while there a valid studies that show how synth is better in some respects to natural, how many of them matter in real life applications?

Kurt

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The 68 Chevelle info page. [last updated Nov. 30, 98]
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Email: Kbyfield@terracom.net
A.C.E.S. #1352

I have a '69 Chevelle with a fuel injected 350 and I run 5W-50 synthetic and it is great! If you ever tear-down a motor that has lived it's life on synthetic you will be amazed at how clean everything is and void of sludge. The main reason I like it though is that I have the added protection of "50" at operating temp without the harse lifter knock at startup due to the low viscosity of regular oil at low temp (i.e. 20W-50). It is almost $5 a quart, but I think it is worth it. Though I also pay for $1.50-$1.60 a gallon Super! =) As for oil treatments, forget it! My College Professor use to dyno test all of these snake oils and manufacturers would ask him to test their latest, but never did he find an oil treatment that did anything that they claimed. Usually the simple fact of changing oil and spark plugs is where the actual dyno results come from. They say that this snake oil gave so much improved horsepower, but what they don't tell you is that they also installed new spark plugs, fuel filter, and air filter! Of course you are going to see a gain!

I've got a 350 in my 72 that's not built up at all and I still use synthetic oil, 15W-50. Yep, it can be expensive, but I like the protection synthetic offers so I think its worth it. Mobil 1, I've found, makes the car run about 5-10 degrees cooler, too. Use a premium oil filter as well for added protection.

How about a partial synthetic.....maybe you'd be getting the best of both worlds (oils). I used to run a conklin product called "convoy" in my 77 camero...loved it! But am currently running Amoco 10w50 in my 64 Chevelle Malibu ss...mainly because that's what was being run in when I bought it. Heard it's not a good idea to change brands.

If you've been using a non-synthetic oil and switch over to synthetic you're most likely going to develop oil leak's. Especially in higher mileage motor's.

If you've been using a non-synthetic oil and switch over to synthetic you're most likely going to develop oil leak's. Especially in higher mileage motor's.

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Nick P.
Team Chevelle Gold #36