I am about to begin an off frame restoration project on my 71 SS. Would like to know if there are any suggestions on anything I should do to the engine as far as fogging or pre-lubing before removal. The engine is a good running 350 with about 30,000 miles on a rebuild job. Engine will be out of the car and unran for about 2 years, if all goes well during the restoration. This project could take longer depending on funds for the project. I Would greatly appreciate any help. I'am new to site as far as having questions answered but I have been following it for a long time. You guys are awesome with your response to questions asked. Thanks, your help will be appreciated.

The most important thing I can think of is to back off the rockers and keep the sparkplugs in.I have seen so many motors that would have continued running if the owner had just sealed the cylenders. Condensation gets in and rust pitting starts.
Harley

Denny K,

Eastmans makes spark plug like plugs that are actually containers filled with desiccant. This substance absorbs water very well and will keep the cylinder bores dry and free of rust.

Shotgun news also makes various size desiccant devices that I put inside of an engine bag when I bag an engine up. I have also been know to put a small one in the intake after lifting the carburetor. (don't forget to take it out before you fire the engine.

The idea of all this is to keep moisture from forming on the inside of the engine while in extended storage.

John

jholp

Am I understanding you correctly, you actually bag the engine for storage? I have heard of guys fogging the cylinders by dumping oil down the carb with the engine at a fast rev until it stalls. Does anyone have any comments on this precautionary step?

[This message has been edited by Denny K (edited 08-03-99).]

Denny K,

Engine bags are available from Summit and Morriso - and probably others. I do bag engines when they are to be stored for extended periods to keep them clean and provide abarrier from "outside" dust, polen, etc.

I find putting a desiccant device inside of the bag with the engine will absorbe the moisture that collects on the inside of the bag. The desiccant devices have a little window that turns pink when it has absorbed its fill of water. You just pop them in the kitchen oven at 300 degrees for an hour or so and the window will return to a blue color indicating it is ready to be reused.

You will feel much better about the status of your engine while you do your other work at a normal pace if you know it is sitting over in a corner insulated from dirt and moisture.

John

Denny, here's what a local engine rebuilder told me ( although the above advice is good as well ). Coat the engine with WD40. Remember that's WaterDisplacement40. Now that was for an L88 shortblock I have. I can't see why running oil down the carb just before you shut her off is a bad idea. Tens of thousands of boat owners do it every year.With an exposed cyl wall, he recommended WD.

And most importantly, do not store it on a concrete floor. Build or rig something to keep that motor up off the floor. I'm just about to splurge on a $55 engine dolly from Summit for long term storage of a stock 396. I'll be paying attention to your post for good ideas as well. Thnx for asking the question!

Thanks to all for the input. I feel much more comfortable with this long term storage problem. I new I would get helpfull ideas from the experts.

Denny,
The first thing I would do is change the oil and filter and using Mobil 1 Synthetic. Run the motor enough to get it up to operating temp after changing the oil.
Then... Go to a local marine supply store and get a can of Mercruiser fogging oil. It is designed to be used for this purpose and will not gum up or form a lot of carbon in the motor. It comes in a spray can and is the best stuff I have seen. If it will keep a boat motor from rusting over the winter it will surely protect your baby for a couple of years. After you pull the motor, tape off the exhaust openings, take off the carb and drain all the fuel, then give the carb a good shot of WD40. Then put it back on the motor and seal up the top.
I may get some arguments on this one, but I would not use a plastic bag to seal the motor unless it is going to be in a very dry, temperature controlled environment. Plastic tends to cause a lot of condensation when the temperature changes. We tell our customers to just cover the motor with a couple of old blankets and let it be.
Hope this helps,

------------------
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100



[This message has been edited by BillK (edited 08-03-99).]

Thanks to all again.
Your input on this topic was great. Everything suggested makes perfect sense to me. Will use your advise and let you know the results in the future.

[This message has been edited by Denny K (edited 08-04-99).]

In a marine application there was a product we called "Pickleing Sauce". We put in the oil and poured down the carb. Next season changed out the fluids and fired it off. I like the idea of backing off the lifters new to me but makes sense.