Need some data about loading a Big Block into a 65 Convert. Any of you Z-16 Cloners out there? Not trying to do a clone just want a Big Block

The car was originally a 350 HP L-79 which is long missing in action. Currently powered by a 350 CI. want to install an early (70's) generation Big Block. A couple of questions.

Question 1: What is the story about the power steering fluid res. A lot of these BB cars used a remote tank to hold the fluid. Is there a way to avoid that remote tank...they are so expensive. If I go to the late model once piece pump and tank I gotta change to the long water pump, etc. etc. because of compatibility issues. If I switch all the brackets etc. etc. etc. over to the late model stuff I likely have problems with the fan hitting the radiator. Whats your suggestion?

Question 2: What oil pan is required to pull this off? Just a Plain Jane Chevy unit will be ok...don't need a special Hanburger or Chrome Summit or whatever. What do you suggest?

Question 3: Do I need to swap out the frame adapters? I have seen all sorts of Yes and No posts about this topic as related to early (Gen 1?) Chevelles. I have swapped BB's in 1972 vehicles and not changed frame adapters but I am wondering. Some people say 307's required different adapters than 350's and I never thought that was the case so I need some advice about the BB swaps into the 65's

[This message has been edited by oman (edited 02-23-2000).]

I use a power steering pump off of a 75 chevy truck. Bolts up to the motor w/ the right brackets and isnt in the way of anything. You shouldnt need to change the frame mounts, but the stock clutch fan will probably be too close to the radiator, and I had to switch mine to a flex fan for clearance. Should be the same as mine (66) The normal oil pan will also work.

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66 Nitrous Fed Big-Block Chevelle Houston, TX ACES#3321 "There is no Replacement for Displacement"

[This message has been edited by RatPowr (edited 02-23-2000).]

There shouldn't be a problem putting a BB with a long pump in your 65. You have to remove the spacer in the front of the radiator. I had an inline 6 in mine and that is longer than the BB. The same mounts will work. If you boxed in the underside of them it would be strong enough.

I've got a 64 big block. You can use the stock oil pan from any of the cars. As for frame stands they did have different bb and sb ones (the magazines show the diff this month under new products and they are now reproducing them). I had to use the short water pump and i run the four core rad with out the extension plus pre 69 had the alt on the left side. Whenever I order anything I just tell the parts people its for a 66 because almost everything is identical

Or an even better idea, do your best to build an L79 engine. These things are amazing and it would keep your car more original looking anyway. You would not be disappointed with the results. 327s can still be had and many of the L79 specific parts are available at somewhat reasonable prices. I just saw an L79 intake on eBay the other day for about $150.

The L79 was put in Corvettes, Chevelles and Chevy IIs so the parts are more plentiful than most people think. Well, most of the parts anyway. You do need to be Chevelle specific on a few L79 parts, but if you just want a mechanical equivilent, it wouldn't be too hard to do.

I have a spare 1965 Chevelle bare L79 block I might be willing to sell....... Just kidding, it's cracked!

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Rich's 1965 Malibu SS Restoration Project Progress Page (http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/8627/)
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Thank you all for the info. I had an L-79, bought the motor new from GM in a crate in 67. $525 ...all I had to add was a carb, wires and a fan. even included the clutch PP and belhousing, water pump AND exh mflds. What happened to the dollar?

I did like that engine a lot, I agree with some of what you say. On the other hand if I build the right 454 the torque output will be much more suited to my current driving desires. My car is too far removed from stock to make the chase to an original "look" reasonable goal. Might as well go with the Big Block.

On this current project for anyone who answered my earlier inquiry. I am looking or a silver bullet to allow retention of the short water pump stuff AND allow removal of the remote tank for the power steering fluid. Adding the long water pump in order to get use the one piece power steeing pump and tank seems sooooo painful. Radiator problems, moving the alternator just a lot of added work! There has to be a way to set up a power steering pump and fluid tank correctly W/O spending the $400 some of these aftermarket guys want. Someone mentions using a 75 Chevy truck powersteering unit. Isn't that a unit that would be used with a long water pump?

BobH, Which magazines? I would like to see them. Thanks, Philip

I just did some measuring on my 64 and from the bell housing to the 3 core radiator it is 34 1/2" without the spacer. The BB I have with a short pump is 29 1/2" from the bellhousing to the fan. How much longer is the long pump set up? More than 4"? I almost used the BB and would not have wanted to run the short pump set up. The last one I ran had a problem keeping belts on and I wouldn't want to go thru that again. If in fact it won't fit I will put the BB up for sale.

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Philip Valentine
Gold Member #42
"Perseverance is not a long race; it is many short races one after another."
philip@chevelles.com

The reason you need to use the remote filler in 65/68 BB cars is because of the alternator mount off the exhaust manifold. It gets in the way. The alternator switched to the other side when they went to the "standard" style pump without the filler can. If you use headers,or move the alt to the pass side, you can use the later style pump w/o a hassle.

Just got finished putting in a zz502 in a 65. Your questions are a good one. As for the power steering I had to go with the remote resorvoir pump but picked up a rebuilt at Kragen auto parts for $30 Dont buy one at a restoration store the get an arm and a leg for them. As for the frame engine stands the stock ones work fine. There is very little difference between the small block and big block stands. The dimensions atr idenical. Make sure you use a good motor mount however like Energy Suspension makes to handle the torque. By the way the power steering brackets can be found at Ground Up restorations for that pump. Use a Short water pump which will give you much more clearence up front after you remove the radiator spacer. The big block is approx 3 inches longer than the small block. This will give you more choices on fans. Electric versus engine driven. Believe me you ned all the room up front you can get. Good luck with your BB!

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Mark

For OPGI

Are you saying "Move the alternator to the opposite side from the original position and use the standard "one piece pump and tank" ?

If your answer is "yes" to my first question can I use the short water pump and all required short water pump pulleys? What year parts and pieces are required to move and mount the alternator on the side opposite from the original 65 location?