ball joint replacement [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: ball joint replacement


EddieT
Jan 6th, 99, 8:27 PM
I am doing a total suspension rebuild (poly bushings, springs, shocks, etc.) on my 68 SS, but I have hit a snag concerning the reassembly of the brake spindles onto the ball joints. Should the spindle mounts slide right onto the ball joint shafts or do they need to be pressed on? I figured they needed to be pressed on since they had to be pickle forked off. I told my local mechanic what I was doing and he gave me a ball joint press (a large C-clamp basically) but it seems as though it is for pressing the ball joints into the A-arms and not for what I need to do. Am I using the tool wrong or do I have the wrong tool? Obviously I have never done this procedure before so fill me in if I am totally missing something obvious. So far, everything has gone smoothly, but I am getting anxious after seeing my baby up on jackstands for so long (had to wait a month for custom springs) Any help in getting this project done soon would greatly appreciated, thanks.

1BADS72
Jan 6th, 99, 9:02 PM
I just did the front of my 72 and I think what you're looking at is pulling the spindle on to the new ball joint studs. The spindle isn't pressed on, but pulled tight by the castle nut on the stud. The only resistance you should have to getting the castle nut started is the stiffness of the new poly ball joint cover.
A tip: grease up the inside of the covers before you put them on. Then, when you get the castle nut on, but before you torque it down, make sure the cover is outside of the ball joint. I had to fish my uppers out after they folded in. You'll probably see the same thing.
As for the tool, its for pressing in the lower ball joint.
Good luck!

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Later,

Rob
1BADS72


[This message has been edited by 1BADS72 (edited 01-06-99).]

Chuck
Jan 6th, 99, 10:25 PM
I have done several 68 to 72s. After the control arms are mounted and the compressed spring is between the two control arms (with a floor jack to keep the spring and the control arms in place), set the lower part of the spindle on the lower ball joint and replace the lower castle nut LOSELY.

Now jack up the lower control arm enough to bring the upper part of the spindle around the upper ball joint stud.

Here's where you may be going wrong and it's simple. Be sure the angle of the ball joint stud is aligned with the upper spindle hole. In other words, if the hole is vertical and the ball joint stud is angled toward you it won't slide in. Lower the jack a little, grab the stud and move the joint so it will slip in. Sometimes it looks aligned but because of the flare it won't go in far enough to get the upper nut on if it isn't square to the hole. This would be real easy to show in person, sorry. You may have to lift the spindle a bit to get the upper nut on. That's why you want the lower nut on loosely, to allow the spindle to be lifted.

Good luck

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Chuck
chuck@chevelles.net

Fred Aldrich
Jan 7th, 99, 1:45 AM
I strongly recommend borrowing a spring compressor from your buddy. I've installed front springs with a floor jack before but it's very dangerous. If the spring jumps out, you could loose your hand or worse. Using a floor jack, it's very difficult to get enough spring compression to connect the upper ball joint. Floor jack wants to lift the car off the jack stands.

[This message has been edited by Fred Aldrich (edited 01-07-99).]

bigblock2b
Jan 7th, 99, 5:48 AM
The ball joint studs, like many other suspension connections, are tapered studs. The hole in the knuckle is tapered also. Tightening the castle nut locks these two tapers togther which is why you needed a pickle fork to separate them. To reassemble you need only align the stud to the knuckle and tighten the castle nut appropriately. Depending on how and where you have supported the lower control arm the knuckle may not reach the stud. You can place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise the arm to engage the stud with the knucle.

RT
Jan 7th, 99, 5:42 PM
A heavy chain through the spring and around the control arm will prevent airborne springs.
Rich

jmw
Jan 7th, 99, 5:45 PM
A spring compressor is less than $80 at any NAPA, or you can probably rent one for less than $10 a day. On my 67, I had to grind a little of the shock opening to get it to clear, but am I glad I used the the compressor. I agree with the alignment probably being off enough to frustrate you. Mine was tough to line up and I am doing a frame off with all new hardware.