I am curious on the products that you guys always use, and of those that you avoid like a case of syphilis.

Before an oil change, I religiously use "Motor Flush" to clean out the innards and always use a quart of Rislone. In the heat of summer, I like to use a heavier oil 10/40 or 10/50. I think that it maintains the thicker viscosity better. Also occasionally, I will use some "Sea Foam" down my carb and watch the smoke show. Loosens up the carbon real nice. I did try that "DuraLube" and the one that "fills" voids in the cylinder walls, just for experimentation, but saw no difference.

I will tell you that I shall never go back to stock ignintion wires after installing Taylor 9mm wires. Better gas milage and much better performance!

Do have an MSD 5 box on the firewall, but I really don't know if it has improved the performance.

I think it's a good idea to share with one another what works and what to give your brother-in-law.



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Joe G.
ChicagoChevelle68
Any car past 1972 is just transportation.
josephguzman@yahoo.com

I have always avoided stuff that didn't come with the car when the General made it.

I have heard Rislone can deterioriate seals and gaskets. Isn't it basically a Kerosene flush?

GMC s-15, 2.8 v-6, 202,000 miles(original valve cover gaskets & no leaks)

I have tried Slick 50, and a few others, but if you change yer 'erl at regular intervals and use a quality brand of oil & filter ..... http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif



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DG
Springfield, Ohio


My 70 Malibu http://www.wright.edu/~adams.41/chevy.htm
dga@erinet.com
TEAM Chevelle Member #0086
eBay username: dg98adams

I won't use Slick 50 after seeing what my neighbor wnet through. He bought a vintage BMW motorcycle that needed restoring and wanted to do something nice to it so he put in Slick 50. And, true to the name that stuff is slick! It slid past all his gaskets and leaked where he didn't have leaks before.
Slick stuff! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif

I swear on using a name brand (Fram) oil filter and using "racing" oil. Replacing it about every 6 months.

I believe in Valvoline racing oil due to believing that it breaks down at a higher temperature.

Anybody could tell me that there is something better, and they may be right.

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Wes. Vann
Technical Reference section
Gold Member #5

After cutting over 200 oil filters apart to look at the filtering media, both new-to see just what is inside, and used, to check the filtering of them, I have come to one conclusion, Fram isn't worth the money, just full on hype. The filtering media is of dubious quality, the filtering area is smaller than most other filtersm and I have seen a drop in oil pressure of up to 7 lbs with the Fram's over the entire line.

Best filters I have found are AC, Purolator, and NAPA/WIX, virtually no pressure drop, more filtering area, better filtering media, and tey keep the oil clearer-longer than the Fram's do.

I have also not seen the need for either synthetic or multi-viscosity oils. I use valvoline straight 30 wgt oil 9in my street engines, 50 or 60 wgt for the nitro racer. Haven't ever had a problem with it. I tend not to use racing oils on the street, have run Valvoline racing oils in my AA/FA, nitro car, but changed after every run (hey, they used to give the stuff to me), used to come out highly aerated, yellow-like baby poop-from nitro dilution. Still, Valvoline is the best racing oil, just not made for 3,000 mile change intervals, change it more often if you're gonna run it on the street.

I have also had good results from Chevron RPM Delo 30 wgt and Torco 30 wgt oils, but both are harder to get lately.

Just what I have seen over the last 35 years.

Nobody could ever convince me to stop using Fram or basic Valvoline.

With over 200,000 miles on a number of cars that have all used both products their entire lives, I see no reason to switch.

I also think that all those 'wonderful' products used to clean your engine are a bunch of hype and do nothing more than prove PT Barnum right.

Kurt

Sorry guys,

I have to disagree with you on this one. I use Ams oil in all of my vehicles (the ones without the rear main seal leak that is). I think this is probably the best synthetic oil ever made.

Up here in Wisconsin, Synthetic oil is important. Ams Oil has a pour point of over 60 degrees below zero.

First started on my old snowmobile. It's a 76 Arctic Cat Pantera Free Air. With the old oil, if the temperature ever got much above 30 degrees or so, the thing would just bog down.

After switching to this stuff, I could drive it in 40+ degree weather without a problem.

It also saved my old daily driver in many ways. Best of all, if a motor using Ams oil ever breaks due to oil related failure, the company will replace it.

Has anyone else used this stuff? I think its great.

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Once you have made up your mind, facts are but a mere annoyance.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by blorenz1:

Up here in Wisconsin, Synthetic oil is important. Ams Oil has a pour point of over 60 degrees below zero.

First started on my old snowmobile. It's a 76 Arctic Cat Pantera Free Air. With the old oil, if the temperature ever got much above 30 degrees or so, the thing would just bog down.

After switching to this stuff, I could drive it in 40+ degree weather without a problem.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Of course, this assumes we ever see snow up there again http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Kurt, a few hours south

Kurt,

I know what you mean. A friend of mine bought a new ZL500 two years ago. Hasn't snowed much since.



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Once you have made up your mind, facts are but a mere annoyance.

Regarding oil filters, see the thread titled "Before You Change Your Oil Filter READ" in Chevelle Tech 2000. It has a link to a site of a guy who did some research on most filters available, cut them open, and listed details of their construction. It's pretty interesting and pretty much bears out what IgnitionMan said.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575

As for racing oils in a street car, I'd be careful. Consider writing a major oil company and getting their recommendation. Racing oils have different additives based on more often (assumed) change intervals. Street car oil has additives for acids, fuel dilution, etc which protect your engine.I have contacted Castrol with this question and will post the answer.

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Gotta have a Chevy !In Durham N.C.
Make it look the way you like it, forget what the other guys say! :D

I will not use anything that you gotta shake before putting in your engine!
OUT:
Fram
Pennzoil
Champion plugs
Armorall (anything)
Firestone tires

IN:
10w-30 Mobil 1 (synthetic oil)
AC Delco filters
AC Delco plugs (MR43LTS)
MSD plug wires
BF Goodrich tires
Meguires


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Dale
Lowered '67 Elcamino
ZZ430HP / 4L60
"Canyon Carver"
www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg)

[This message has been edited by Cardiac (edited 04-14-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Cardiac (edited 04-14-2000).]

This is good, real good. Keep em' coming.

What about radiator flushes? I use them once a year before antifreeze change. And whats the deal with the Mystery Oil?, good or bad? Anyone use additives of any kind?

I have had bad experiences with Champion plugs and will avoid them. I used to have this clear distributor cap from Warshawskys. I thought it was cool, but then again I was younger too.

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Joe G.
ChicagoChevelle68
Any car past 1972 is just transportation.
josephguzman@yahoo.com

Actually, Mr. Gasket has a clear distributor cap available for both HEI and point GM distributors, and Ford point distributors. They are good quality, copper terminal caps. Made much better than those of yesteryear. I vend a few to the Low-Rider crowd around here, no problems.

I use straight 30 motor oil. Comes out like molasses, but makes the motor run a lot better. I talked to several Chevelle nuts with stock & modified 67s & they say the best to use is straight 30. No synthetic stuff. Fram is an advertising genuis. I put one on the 67 cause they were all out of AC Delco & I needed something quick. But then again, the 67 is broken down again.

For camshafts, DON'T use Comp Cams. They've been getting real bad lately. I've heard way too many flattened camshaft stories...even my own. Stick with Crane, Crower, or Lunati.

I also like Hedman headers, excellent fit & great headers. We tested the Dynomaxs on a 70 Chevelle in shop. Not worth it, they aren't that good of headers. He had some problems with em & changed to Hedman. No complaints yet.

Taylor wires are the best! I love the look & performance of them. If you use them, be sure not to give the coil wire too much slack. Mine slipped off & died on a busy bridge. I always carry the original coil wire with me just in case as well as the original wires. It's a good idea...trust me.

As for carbs, I like Holley's performance, but not their gas mileage ability. The Edlebrocks & Carters are good, but need parts most of the time. I've heard of problems with the chokes on the Edelbrocks, but I've only had one. It stayed on after the morning & wouldn't start in the afternoon until i closed it.

Nothin' beats halogens, almost twice as good as the old T3's, but doesn't give em that nostalgic look. It's ok, I like seeing the road at night. At $5 a pop for halognes at the local AutoZone, who can beat it? Take 30 mins. out of your day to swap em, much better!

The best air cleaners are Moroso...I had a guy at Chevrolet with a 67 test them for me & he found that the Moroso flowed better & trapped dirt better than the others. K&N's are ok, but they let a lot of dirt go through or so I've heard. The other best air cleaners are the mushrooms from cars like the 54 Chevy. They have an oil galley at the bottom, basically nothing but clean air gets through.

BFGoodrich are good tires, but are not good on wet surfaces. I have Goodyear Eagle STs, excellent tires! They don't ride hard, take corners smoothly, & don't wear out quickly. The only problem is they stopped making them cause they lasted so long & people stopped buying tires. The ones on my car hve been there for 6 years & only the front ones need changed. The rears have seen their share of smokies too http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

I think that's it...wow! This is a big post.

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Jay In-the-works 67 Malibu (http://www.angelfire.com/ca5/socalrat)

Consumables: Valvoline oil and fluids, NAPA filters, Black Butte Porter (lifes to short for lite beer), Felpro gaskets, Loctite.

For emergencies: Commercial grade duct tape from HVAC jobber, JB Weld, ASTM grade rebar tie wire.

Stay away from: anything electrical that is shrink wrapped, anything advertised on TV at the same time as salad shredders.

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OrrieG
64 Malibu HT Survivor (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/OrrieG1.jpg)
Gold Member #171

Things that I swear by:
WD-40 for versatility, the Duct Tape of spray cans: cleaning, moisture displacement and penatrant. I try not to use it a as lube , but in a pinch it works. Have you ever noticed that if you get it in your eyes, after the first wave of pain is over, you eyelids do actually open and close easier? http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif
Chemtool: favorite carb cleaner.
Never-Dul for polishing

I swear by A/C products, filters and plugs. Had many problems with other plugs. I tend to agree with the generals parts also. These products have been tested and perfected to run on our engines, if the parts are cheaper there is a reason.(most of the time).

As far as oil I read a big article one time about how the small block should run straight weight oils. many flat cams caused by multi viscosity oils. I like a 40w but getting hard to find, currently trying the new Delo 15w40, so far not impressed. lower oil pressure at high rpm. I will stick with 40w.Usually Valvoline.

I go with the comment about if it is on T.V it isnt good. They are just trying way too hard to sell these products. (maybe some are good)I'll wait till I hear good things from friends etc before trying something new.

As far as radiator flushes, be careful some of these contain acids that can harm your cooling system.Some come with a neutralizer for these acids. If you flush regularly with water and keep coolant in your system you should be fine.

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71 Chevelle 454
65 Elco 4x4
68 Firebird 400 Conv.

I really feel that if you change your oil and filter on a regular basis there is no need to spend the money on any oil additive out there. After all, most of those race car drivers that are trying to sell the stuff to you by trying to influance you because of who they are and say they use that product are PAID MONEY! I always thought "Hey that stuffs gotta work or they couldn't make the claims they do. I've tried Slick50, Duralube,and Prolong and saw no differance in gas mileage, water temp or power in any vehical I used them in so I think it just a big marketing scam and I need my money for more important things that actually work like food and water! And who would ever decide to run their engine without oil anyway, if you have an oil leak that is that bad don't ya think ya otta fix it Gomer! Thanks for hearing me out I feel much better now....

Products that I use and stand by:

Anything Genuine GM/ AC/ DELCO

Simple Green (cleaner)

DE-SOLV-IT (citrus based cleaner)

POR-15 (only used the "patch and silver so far)

Mobil 1 (synthetic motor oil)

ENERGY RELEASE or ER as it's called has some real good stuff. Their metal conditioner (oil additive) is really awsome! WWW.ENERGYRELEASE.COM (http://WWW.ENERGYRELEASE.COM) It's compatiable with ALL synthetic & petroleum products. I've used it in older engines and many other applications with great success! However, I refuse to use any additive in a new engine regardless how good it is! But if I have to prolong the agony of repairs, ER is what I use http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif Davy Hamilton (IRL driver) found a 30deg drop in oil and water temp when used in his Super Modified car.

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Dale
Lowered '67 Elcamino
ZZ430HP / 4L60
"Canyon Carver"
www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg)

What do you guys use to remove rust stains from concrete? Am I the only one that uses Quaker State? Love Crane Cams and all of their stuff.(use it in the Harley )Like Edelbrock stuff(use them on the Harley also) except for their carbs, had one and passed it along.Bless Holley Carbs and all the smiles they've put on my face over the years.
I also run Autolite Spark plugs in the big block motors and yeah, the Harley too.

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69 SS396 69 Malibu Ragtop
70 Monte 72 El Camino
Team Chevelle Gold #33
ACES Member #02913
Chevelle Club of Michigan
Rode shotgun in the ONLY Z16 convertible made.

Formula 409, does a good job on my interior and tires, and it has a classically cool name http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif.

Gotta agree with those products on TV, when the ad says "only available through this offer" the red flags start goin' up.

I started using quakerstate about 6 years ago when penzoil abandoned their desiel certification, and when an explorer 4.0 tried to use the valve train as a horn. It made lots of noise. I switched to quaker because they had both gas and desiel certif. I like using 1 oil so that those not as up on things don't foul up my stuff. I had to use rotella T after quakerstate quit doing desiel. I found with oil the best setup is to only run 1 brand and not vary, they all are slightly different, and when they fight with each other they aren't protecting the engine.

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70 Malibu w/4bbl 350 4-sp

still run quaker on the gas units.

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70 Malibu w/4bbl 350 4-sp

On camshafts I'll just give you my experience. After researching and checking many catalogs I bought a Schneider Racing Cams camshaft recently because the specs were very close to what I was looking for, closer than any other company. This company's ad is seen a lot in the very back section of some of the popular car magazines. I also liked the idea of using a company that wasn't hyped to the hilt like others I will not name. I also wanted to be different than all of those who have bought into the hype. Well, when I went to degree the cam in it's numbers were inconsistent from lobe to lobe. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif As a matter of fact the lift at the lobe varied as much as .020. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/mad.gif This was a single pattern cam by the way. So, be forewarned if contemplating a camshaft purchase.
I have used Cam Dynamics and Crane in the past and have had good luck with them.

[This message has been edited by Rmchevelle (edited 04-29-2000).]

My partner and I inherited the Schneider cam lines when we bought our Service Center store in the early eighties. We inherited so many problems with them, too. Lobes going flat on every cam we sold, absolutely no backup from Schneider or warrantee on the bad cams, cams that just didn't perform right, just way too many problems with them. Total frustration with the company.

We decided to convert to the Comp Cams line and the problems stopped. This was in the early eighties, not recently, and the Comp cams didn't have problems back then, now, a different story altoghther.