Gene Chas
Jun 20th, 99, 11:29 AM
Just put the top back on my junkyard Q, and I thought I'd share a few tips. There are folks out there more experiecned with the Q than I, but I rebuilt a bunch of these when I was a kid and had good luck.
Don't forget the two screws in the primary airhorn. Start with these when you retorque.
The choke rod is a PITA and I find it easier to disconnect it where it links to the choke lever in the main body. Upon reassembly, I'll fish the choke rod back onto the choke lever from through the top and then reconnect to the air horn.
I always polished the piston rod with fine emery cloth just to make it work more smoothly in the bore. Rinse with real hot water and blow dry with a air can. Also, you can put the emery cloith around a pencil and clean up the piston bore too. Dont start sanding away at this thing. You remove too much metal and the sucker may not seal.
Found the best way to rehang your primary metering rods is to get the loop of the retaining spring near the hole in the hanger and then loop the top of the metering rod into the hanger and the spring.
Always check the ends of your metering rods for deformities. The qjet I just finished was reman by Holley ( odd? ), but one of the secondary metering rods was bent. I could've done that when I disassembled but I don't think so.
Although my instructions said not to, I always disconnect the secondary metering rods from the carb. Trying to line up the four rods, plus the two metering rods upon reassembly is too hard. They're pretty easy to "feeL' back into their ports.
Even if you don't remove the carb base, check all the bolts for tightness. You'd be surprised how many loose bolts you'll run into.
I can't tell you how many times I reassembled the power piston only to remember that the float/needle assembly goes on first. Put the float in first and set it, then reinstall the power piston.
With those plastic rings that hold the power piston in, if I know I'll never open up that carb again ( for tuning or whatever )I'll put a dimple into the metal just surrounding the ring to hold it in. ( Be gentle )
Well I haven't done this in twenty years, but it felt like yesterday so I thought I'd share a few pointers.
Oh, some new tech for you guys that don't have air:, those air cans you get at the computer stores. Mint for blowing out holes and such.
Good luck with your Qjet. I'm might just rebuild another one with the "monster" primary bores ( 800 cfm) for my bigger big block.
Gene Chas
Gold #62
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[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 06-20-99).]
[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 09-15-2000).]
Don't forget the two screws in the primary airhorn. Start with these when you retorque.
The choke rod is a PITA and I find it easier to disconnect it where it links to the choke lever in the main body. Upon reassembly, I'll fish the choke rod back onto the choke lever from through the top and then reconnect to the air horn.
I always polished the piston rod with fine emery cloth just to make it work more smoothly in the bore. Rinse with real hot water and blow dry with a air can. Also, you can put the emery cloith around a pencil and clean up the piston bore too. Dont start sanding away at this thing. You remove too much metal and the sucker may not seal.
Found the best way to rehang your primary metering rods is to get the loop of the retaining spring near the hole in the hanger and then loop the top of the metering rod into the hanger and the spring.
Always check the ends of your metering rods for deformities. The qjet I just finished was reman by Holley ( odd? ), but one of the secondary metering rods was bent. I could've done that when I disassembled but I don't think so.
Although my instructions said not to, I always disconnect the secondary metering rods from the carb. Trying to line up the four rods, plus the two metering rods upon reassembly is too hard. They're pretty easy to "feeL' back into their ports.
Even if you don't remove the carb base, check all the bolts for tightness. You'd be surprised how many loose bolts you'll run into.
I can't tell you how many times I reassembled the power piston only to remember that the float/needle assembly goes on first. Put the float in first and set it, then reinstall the power piston.
With those plastic rings that hold the power piston in, if I know I'll never open up that carb again ( for tuning or whatever )I'll put a dimple into the metal just surrounding the ring to hold it in. ( Be gentle )
Well I haven't done this in twenty years, but it felt like yesterday so I thought I'd share a few pointers.
Oh, some new tech for you guys that don't have air:, those air cans you get at the computer stores. Mint for blowing out holes and such.
Good luck with your Qjet. I'm might just rebuild another one with the "monster" primary bores ( 800 cfm) for my bigger big block.
Gene Chas
Gold #62
------------------
[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 06-20-99).]
[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 09-15-2000).]