I've got a 327 that has been in storage inside a garage for about 20 years. It's in SoCal so it is pretty dry. Carb has been off and the manifold had a rag stuffed in it and the exhaust manifolds have been on. The engine was supposed to have been rebuild with about 20,000 miles on it when the vehicle it was in was in an accident. The numbers check out to be a '65 327/300 hp block with '59 283 heads.

I would like to use the engine while I build a 350 or 383 for a 67 wagon. I am also planning on replacing the cam and lifters. So what else besides changing the oil and priming the oil pump should be done.

Thanks for the help.

dont forget the seats aren't hardened chances are, not sure what precautions you would have to take for this except a lead supliment or replacement.

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My 70* (http://members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/chevelle9.jpg)

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1970 malibu SS look-a-like well kinda
350/200-4r (soon to be 383/355 dunno yet)

Ft.Worth, Tx

That's a long time, even in a dry climate. If the rocker arms weren't undone ( to let the valves down agaist their seats), then I would have to guess the valves or valve seats have surface rust on them. They may not seat well. And who knows what the cylinderbores look like. Hopefully the plugs were left in.

Rather than pull the whole bugger apart, which is the totally correct thing to do, I would hand lubricate much of it, spin the mill by hand while priming, then fire.

Example, I would squirt some oil into the cylinders and then crank the engine over by hand. I would pull the valve covers and "bathe" the upper end with oil. By hand tirning the motor at slow speed you can get a nsense of how tight it is. You might want to have the priming tool in at the same time so as you can spin the oil pump as you turn the mill every 90 degrees.

Defintiely check the oil presuure to make sure the pump takes a prime.

I would use the good stuff ( Mobil1 10-30). I think it flows better and keeps a better surface then conventional oil. Keep in mind you should swap out the oil pretty quickly after it's running ( maybe 150-200 miles).

Lastly, time decomposes rubber parts the worst. So things like the fuel pump, accel pump, etc., are suspect.

It still might run like heck and smoke after your cautious preparation. But still, I would do more than just prime and fire.

I wonder if WD40 is a better cylinder soaking agent than motor oil??

Hopefully a real engine pro responds and can confirm/refute/tweak my advice. Good luck.

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Chaas
Gold #62/ACES
67 SS396/(427L88) (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/chaas1.jpg)

[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 03-19-2000).]

Change oil and filter, use whatever oil you are going to run in the engine. Pull the plugs and shoot some oil in each cylinder (plenty, leave the plugs out). Pull the dist and prime the heck out of the oil pump as you ocassionally rotate the engine through a few turns by hand (this will save removing the valve covers and push the excess oil out the plug holes). Check to see if all pan/valve cover bolts are tight. Bring it up on #1cyl, install the dist/plugs, light it after all the accessories are installed and it is in the car (unless you have one of those stands that you can use to test fire it before installing). Drive it 2-300mi and change oil and filter again. If it's OK you will probably know it by now. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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Tom Parsons

[This message has been edited by DZAUTO (edited 03-19-2000).]

Thanks for the help.