I am in the process of rubuilding a Carter AVS, for my 327, I have already put a kit in it but need to know what jets/metering rods combination to start with. I'll give the specs of the engine here to help. 327 bored .030 over, stock forged rods/crank, hyp. pistons(flat tops/4 valve reliefs) 461 double hump heads,w/ 2.02/1.60 stainless steel valves, 3 < valve job, z28 springs, 327/300 h.p. cam, headers w/2.5 duals, hei, and stock dual plane intake w/ 1" al. carb spacer. Does anybody know where to start? or where to find the information. Oh by the way the chevelle has a power glide w/ stock stall converter and 3.08's , so it doesnt see much past 4000 rpms as of now. Thanks for all your help.

It's best to start with the jets and rods you already have. You may already have the correct jetting. Get the engine running and check the spark plug condition after you have run in the cam. You'll be able to tell if you're too rich or too lean from the color, provided you don't let it idle for an excessive period of time after cam break-in. Someone may have a similar setup to yours, so it would be helpful if they shared the information. A call to the Carb Shop would probably also help. It also wouldn't hurt to look up the part number of the carb and see if it is for a small block application. If that's the case, the jetting is probably pretty close. But the best starting point is to begin with what you have

Randy, thats probably a good idea. Dont supppose the Carb Shop has a web page do they?

www.customcarbs.com (http://www.customcarbs.com)

Their number has been posted on this site a bunch. You could probably find it using the search engine. I am not aware of a website. Keep us up to date on your progress.

Upon viewing the New Carb Shop web site, I noticed there was no mention of Carter or Edelbrock carbs. Just Rochester Q-jets and Holleys.

There is a book out by S-A design about carter carbs. very helpful for tuning. Also unless the car is original you might think about a tranny change. 327's are not known for much torque down low. You could go with a th350 or even a th200r4 both are the same length as powerglide and would give you much better gear multiplication which means better take off and maybe better milage

Thats right ignition man, the shop only specializes in Holleys and Q-jets, oh well...
I was thinking of setting up like the Edelbrock carbs that they sell, same thing basically, and they tell you in the ad which jet/metering rod/springs they use. They sell the parts individually, but will they fit in a carter? I know they are basically the same carb, so it should work right? Anybody tried this? Yes Bob, i am in search of a different tranny, any thoughts/hints to keep in mind if going to a 200R4? Thanks

Ignitionman, post the web address so we can get in our bookmarks. Thanks.
Also, I think Bill K. mentioned a kit for this in another post. It comes with a variety of rods and jets.

[This message has been edited by Randy Mosier (edited 12-05-99).]

All the differences I have seen in the Carter/Edelbrock AFBs is some of the needles (rods) from the original and aftermarket Carters are triple stepped, and give a better transition during operation.

The Edelbrocks only have the two step needles to cover more tuning area. I seem to remember that Edelbrock did some more air corrector and bleed work on their booster venturis. To what extent, I don't know, but the original calibrations for the Edelbrocks were on dead stock 350 Chevy enignes and the subsequent jet changes for other engine modifications and sizes were done by computer. I guess they ahve done more actual testing, but I don't use these carbs for anything past full stock engines for any reason.

As far as I know, the step-up piston spring selection and jets are same-same for both makers.

I have also found that the chart for jetting, using both the needles and mainjets, is not always accurate. I just had a 350 0n a friend's Chevy powered Early Ford truck that needed the jet, but not the needle recommended. When I called and asked about this, the Edelbrock tech said it was all wrong and wouldn't work. Well, the jet alone fixed it. The needle slowed it down significantly.

I have always found the Edelbrock AFB carbs to work great right out of the box on DEAD STOCK 350 Chevy engines, but require more changes than would seem nescessary to get right on anything else.

I think Edelbrock built the wrong carb. I feel the secondary side of the AVS is far, far better all the way around for all applications. Simple, just a spring set air door, two dump tubes and two jets. No secondary booster venturis, no air brakes that end up hampering airflow, just good secondary carburetion and dirt-simple jetting/air door adjustment.

Just my opinion, an ex-Holley carb tech.

406, thanks for the posting the Carb Shop's new web address. I didn't realize they had a site.

Ignition Man, would it be better to buy the Carter AFB Stip kit, at $47, or just buy the jets i need (assuming the setup that the edelbrock carbs have now(98-100)prim. jet/(95)secondary jet... and the metering rod is (.041/.071) if my memory serves me right, will work. That would cost only $18.80, and i am a cheap college student so.....But i would also get the AFB metering rod spring kit. $7. The metering rods that were in the carb are only stepped down twice, and it seems to me that there are two sets of jets in the carb, not one set, like you mentioned, am i mistaking these for something else maybe???? this is my first carb rebuild and so far it seems relatively easy to work on, except i dont know how to change the metering rods/or the springs for that matter, and the little retaining clip looking spring at the top...They are starting to *****me off, any clues/tricks on how to change them? Thanks alot, i really appreciate all of this help!

I know money isn't easy to get for most of us, me included, but in this case, I'd get a part timer for the bank funds needed for the full kit.

You'll have all the different combos for any engine you put the carb on, including accelerator squirters, step-up piston springs, needles and full range of primary/secondary jets. Plus, I think it comes with extra pesky little needle retainer springs, too. This is really the best deal, just have to bite the bullett and go for broke.

Rational on parts costs $18.80 + $7.00 = $25.80. Full kit with all the other parts is only $21.20 more. Kit, young lad, kit.

Changing the needles in the power pistons is sometimes quite exasperation for the first timer. Here's what I do.

Don't pull the cover plate all the way off the carb top, just rotate it after loosening it, and the piston/needle will pop up.

Pull the assembly up and out. Hold the piston in one hand, and the needle in the other (fingers), then with one digit, pull the needle holding end of the spring clip downward and hold while the needle is removed and the new one is inserted, let the spring clip go back into the needle groove, you're done here.

Getting the needle back into the main jet is a pain sometimes, but I just take my index finger and play dribble the needle with it until it goes into the mainjet, then stop, and move the cover back into position under your finger, holding it down with the same finger, and tightening the plate retainer screw. Easy (hahahahaha).

I have tried to drop the needle in with accuracy, vulger lauguage, hammers, everything, but the "dribble' method is the easiest and fastest way I have found yet. Try it, you'll get the hang of it.

You might try to call Edelbrock tech, sometimes, if you ask them nicely, for jetting info and tell them you have their carb, they take pity on us and will send free needles and jets. MAYBE. SOMETIMES, Worth a try first. Struggling student and all.

The only kit that i know of says it includes 13 pairs of jets/6 pairs of rods/and 2 pairs of needles and seats, and that is for the $47 price tag, i would still have to buy the power piston spring kit (doesnt say any thing about the metering rod retainer springs), at $7, and then find the metering rod retainer springs and the accelerator squirters. It seems that the both power pistons are stuck because when i try just pulling them out, they wont come, and when(already had the top off) i put the top back on the rods seem to long and bend. What do i do now????? I think i will try to snatch some freebies from Edelbrock...only problem is what do i tell them, do i have their 650cfm or 750cfm version, as i dont know the cfm on the ASV, does anybody know???? Thanks alot for your help ignition man!!

AVS is a 700 cfm rating, that's what we get from taking the air break doors out of the secondary side. Like I said, Edelbrock did the wrong carb.

If the power pistons are stuck, the thing won't work anyway. In most applications, the jets, needles and springs are usually all that are needed. I have not ever seen a jet kit for AFB that didn't have the spring assortment in it.

Get the power pistons and springs out and cleaned up first, then make sure they slide up and down smoothly. DON'T use sandpaper in the piston bores. Get here first, then we'll go from there.

When the needles are kept in the top, it is super hard to get them into their respective mainjets. They will bend as the top is screwed down into contact with the top gasket/body. Get them pistons and needles out of there before you try to install the top again. You can carefully straighten the needles and then measure the steps for the correct needle ident.

I'll keep checking this board for updates.

Keep going.

[This message has been edited by IgnitionMan (edited 12-07-99).]

The power pistons are stuck... http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif please dont tell me the carb is junk. could i pull the top of an AFB and put on?????

68chevelle, an AFB top is different than the AVS top, and there are 4 different AFB tops that have been used for OEM and aftermarket carbs.

Take the top off the carb, remove the needle/power piston caps, then look at the gasket side of the top. Find the power piston vacuum pull ports, next to the needles. Before you do the next step, lube the power piston(s) with oil or WD40, etc, to ease the removal of the power pistons. Fit a straight punch into the hole and through the spring, connceting with the underside of the piston, gently tap the piston out of its hole. If they don't come out easily, re-lube and try again.

When you get the power pistons out of their bores, you will probably find them and the bores corroded and filled with white powder. Gently clean the bores and the power pistons with a toothbrush (soft bristle only) and mild detergents until they are clean and the pistons slide smoothly without any lube.

Don't use stuff like a wire brush or sandpaper to clean the bores/power pistons, this will damage the bores/pistons, so they won't pull up correctly.

I now understand why the needles kept bending. The needles/power pistons should always be installed after the carb top is installed.

Let me know how things come out with this step. E/mail me directly if you have more questions, or post here.

Remember, Gently, tap gently.