I have a mallory unilite and a gm HEI. I am about to fire up my new 454 in my 72 camino. Which will perform better?

I also have a blaster coil but the stupid thing is so huge I can't find a spot to mount it.

I read other discussions about igitions so now I need opinions on these two systems.

Someone said the bigger coil would ruin some replacement electronics.

Thanks

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Mr. D
72 454 El Camino
68 RS/SS Camaro
73 RS/LT/Z28 Camaro
99 Firebird TA WS-6 A4

It's a tossup. I run both systems and have run both on the same car for long periods of time.. theres not a noticeable performance difference but you cant go wrong with an HEI!! Especially if the Unilite is mechanical advance only..

Dont get me wrong, Im not saying the HEI is better because I think the Unilite is also a great unit. Dont beleive anyone that says the HEI wont work at hi rpm ( <6500 )



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Mike Reeh
Gold #34
San Diego, CA

Mikes right, I turned 8 grand using a HEI (according to my recall) and the engine never missed a lick. I would run the HEI on a stock/mild street engine.

Mike Reeh
thanks for the info. It has a vacuum advance. But will the unilite unit burn up with a super coil, etc?? Or will it last??

Aug98
I don't doubt the abilities of the HEI either. Just wonder if this unilite is worth running since I have it and it didn't cost me anything. I am about to spend $60 for plug wires and I need to decide on one or the other cause the wires will not work on both http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif
thanks
MR. D

Ok guys what about if you have a mallory comp 9000 with a promaster coil and a mallory high fire 4 ignition box? I have all these components and cant decide if to use them again or sell them and go hei? The reason why is because I am going back to stock and took my nitrous system off and pulled all the electronics off. what should I use comp9000 with msd type coil so I can use the factory coil bracket or just use a good ol hei? I may sell if anyone interested.

I've used a Mallory Unilite with a Blaster 2 coil since 1991 on a 454 powered 69. A powerful coil hasn't hurt mine, and i've never even heard of this being a problem.

Mallory Unilites aren't adversely affected using high output coils, as other drop-ins are, so the unilite is OK with Blaster and other perf coils, just use the ballast resistor.

The thing I see most with Mallory distributors in my shop is they have large, heavy mechanical weights. This is good and bad. The curves are easily set with the wieght of the weights, as the spring selection is easy, BUT the need for mechanical advance maintenance is a lot higher.

The pins that hold the weights come loose and can allow the whole mess to break the springs, and worse, sometimes kill the body from the wieghts hitting when they get loose.

Now, some of you will no doubt say they haven't had a problem with their million mile or hundred year old Mallory, but I have seen lots of loose weight pins and damaged distributors, from simply no regular routine maintenance. Key here is to do the maintenance Mallory recommends at the correct intervals. Keep it lubed and tight.

Me, between the Mallory or the HEI, I'll take the HEI, thanks. Just my opinion.

thanks guys. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Ignition man
The one I am using has a vacuum advance. Should I just hook it up like my regular points distributor except run the positive wires to the positive side of the resistor? Do I need to run a non resistive wire or 12 volts to it like an HEI??
Thanks

9 volts max,that is what burns out the trigger light, like in the previous thread, use that ballast resistor http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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Bob West
Monett,Mo.
1972 Malibu,461 cid.

[This message has been edited by Wally (edited 12-12-99).]

This brings up an interesting occurance from about a month ago, and part of a phone conversation with the head ignition design engineer at Mallory and I, early last week.

I was at a performance shop I do work for about a month ago. While I was there, during my two hour visit, the shop was finishing a "new" Unilite installation into a nice street Chevrolet. I was asked to comment on the ignition. My comments were what I have always felt and known about the Unilite.

I was told that the "new" Mr. Gasket/Mallory Unilites don't need the ballast reisitor in line. My response was that I didn't think the statement was correct, and I thought it would fail.

The mechanic finished the installation, we all watched the thing fire up, and it took just under two minutes to make the Unilite go completely blind. Stopped dead cold. Interesting.

So, last week, I had to call Mallory about an unrelated item, and I spoke with the lead engineer. This subject and the fact I witnessed the blindness came up. The engineer told me flat out that the Unilite has NEVER been redesigned in any way on the inside. Nada. There are no plans to do so, either.

I asked about the full voltage to the Unilite, and the fellow said I was crazy to attempt this, the unit won't take that voltage. Only time it can survive full battery voltage is upon starter bypass at start-up, intermittant.

I also asked about the 'new' Mallory, and was told that the new corporate gameplan Mr. Gasket has (they own both Mallory and Accel), is to make Accel into the premiere street and hot-rod ignition and Mallory to regain the lead in racing ignition systems in NHRA and other drag racing with magnetos.

I was also told that the Mr. Gasket corporation is seriously looking into discontinuing the replacement point sets and the Unilite completely, and all Accel point sets and BEI replacement parts. The Mallory company shifted the design of electronic ignitions to ones with magnetic pickups a few years ago (Comp 9000), and was in the process of full conversion when the whole SuperShops and Mallory/Erson problems came about.

So, as far as I know, as late as early last week, the Unilite has never been redesigned, and still requires the ballast resistor. I saw it with my own eyes a month ago.

In the four weeks since I witnessed the flame-out at my friend's shop, he has had one other "new" mallory Unilite go full blind from being 12 volted, and now installs them like he used to, with the ballast resistor in place and funtional. Now, they continue to work for him, just like before.

I have had a lot of experience with Unilites used with point driven alternator regulators, and know for certain the reason most Unilites fail is from voltage surge above 17.0 volts. Grounding is the second largest reason for Unilite failure.

This is what I discovered long ago, has been fact for the thirty years I have been involved in the afternarket ignition business, and what I know to be true even today.

I still think that the Unilite is the best of the drop-in aftermarket ignition units, but they still need the ballast resistor and a healthy, un-damaged electrical circuit in the vehicle they are in.

Full 12 volt the "new" Unilite, NOT ME.

Sorry for the long post, but I just get weary of hearing all the stories from this and that source, and "tips" I have proven to myself that are not correct. I got a question, I go to the main source of the part, the design engineer working on it, for the straight answers.



[This message has been edited by IgnitionMan (edited 12-06-99).]

[This message has been edited by Wally (edited 12-12-99).]

[This message has been edited by Wally (edited 12-12-99).]

Yeah, me. Especially when I talk with the main man, and then see it in print differently from the same source.

Now, I don't really care care what anybody does with their Unilites, Ignitors or the lot, ballast or not, as I build a dedicated HEI into the point distributors, but I saw one of the "new" unilites live only a couple of minutes, in person, with the full 12 volts. Then heard from the same installer/shop, of the next Unilite installed by them doing the same thing, then hearing the same installer went back to using the resistor and not having another problem. That's enough for me to know that I simply don't want to use any ignition conversion that I cannot get parts for from any auto parts store.

The only drop-in system I'd ever install is the Unilite, with the resistor, that's the way I have proven to myself to do it and have it live, and that's what I was told by the head design engineer who builds and designs Mallory ignition systems.

That's enough proof for me.

It's either an MSD or modified small-body HEI as my first default ignition choice, or the ballasted Unilite as the last changeover ignition choice for me. Nothing else, Period.

Now, Wally, if you have a problem with that, you'll just have to live with it.

[This message has been edited by IgnitionMan (edited 12-08-99).]

[This message has been edited by IgnitionMan (edited 12-08-99).]

Ignitionman
I believe in You, man!!! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif
Anyway, for info purposes, I intalled the unilite with resistor http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif and it has worked fine for the 30 seconds or so that I have had the engine running. I will probably start it again friday and run it for another 5 minutes or so while I check for leaks, etc. I'll keep the HEI handy just in case!! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Mr. D

Mr.D, connected and resisted as you have done, you most likely will not have problems with the Unilite.

I have heard of, and acutally seen less Unilite ignition units fail than the other drop-in units, bar none.

After reading all this I vote for the HEI, dependable and can get parts anywhere.
Philip

I vote for HEI!!!!

------------------
Steve

I had the Unilite on a '70 SS and the speedometer shop told me that was the reason why I couldn't get the factory tach to work, even thought it tested out OK. I had to run a Mallory tach instead.

Does that make sense?

------------------
Stan Hanek
'66 SS - 396 4 sp.
haneks@wdni.com

http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif Stay Away From the Light http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif


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Lowered '67 Elcamino
ZZ430 eng / 4L60 trans
"Canyon Carver"




[This message has been edited by Cardiac (edited 12-08-99).]

Wally, I was just reading your link to mallory, and at the the top of the page it says "failure to use a ballast resistor will eventually destroy the unilite ignition module".Wont that mean less than 12 volts?

[This message has been edited by Wally (edited 12-12-99).]

I have had a unilite in my 70 Chevelle for fifteen years,it failed once in 1989. When I bought the new module they told me it was an improved version. Just in case I bought an extra and it is still in the center console. I do not use a ballast resister, I use the factory igntion wire which has 9 volts.
Can the unilite be recurved? recently had to put in a 305 and need to bring in timing a little faster

I have had a unilite in my 70 Chevelle for fifteen years,it failed once in 1989. When I bought the new module they told me it was an improved version. Just in case I bought an extra and it is still in the center console. I do not use a ballast resister, I use the factory igntion wire which has 9 volts.
Can the unilite be recurved? recently had to put in a 305 and need to bring in timing a little faster

I never use a drop-in type module to trigger an MSD, I install the dedicated MSD/Ford wide blade trigger pickup and reluctor.

[This message has been edited by Wally (edited 12-12-99).]

I've used the Unilite as a point replacement ignition system, with the resistor, and had no problems.

I wouldn't waste my time using a Unilite and the extra wiring needed, to run an MSD or other ignition "box", there are much better "triggers" for use with those ignitions than the Unilite or Ignitor are, or ever will be.

[This message has been edited by 65Z16 (edited 12-09-99).]

[This message has been edited by 65Z16 (edited 12-09-99).]

[This message has been edited by Wally (edited 12-12-99).]

Same engineer, today, again.

Same answer on the ballast resistor, use it. It is needed for use with the Unilite when the Unilite is applied for what it was designed for, REPLACING THE POINT SETS IN STOCK POINT DISTRIBUTORS.

We also went back over using the Unilite as a trigger for other aftermarket ignition boxes. He was quite amused at how many people just haven't gotten the word. Mallory is now using a MAGNETIC TRIGGER PICKUP for their higher output ignition boxes, as are every other manufacturer of high performance ignition boxes.

Now, I think you should just keep doing whatever it is you are spouting off about, and leave the real igntion systems to the ones of us who want a much better system than all the drop-ins, like the Unilite.

I also think you should apologize to 65Z16 for flaming him on his post above. He was just voicing his opinion, like you and I have been doing. Seems to me he only has two wires to connect, mag + and mag -, and a much better trigger to boot.

Just my opinion, there, Wally.

[This message has been edited by IgnitionMan (edited 12-10-99).]

On a different but related (oxymoron?) subject..........Mr. D., if this is the crate 454HO like the one I just picked up, the GM literature describes the GM HEI distributor as follows..."This distributor has the melonized cam drive gear for steel roller camshafts. This distributor is required on all crate engines and roller camshafts that are made of steel. If engines are assembled not using this gear, it may affect your engine warranty."

I can only guess that melonized is related to a steel hardness rating or something like that. Anyway, you may want to put the GM gear (PN 10456413)on your aftermarket distributor or just use the GM HEI.
jmw

Surface treatment of the gear material. Other treatments are anodizing, phosphate coating, Kellogging, induction hardening, etc. Makes metals that aren't particularly comatible with each oghte work together and live.

On a different subject, IgnitionMan, don't even be concerned about our pal, Wally. I just consider the source. You just continue doing things the right way, let Wally do it any way he wants.

Thanks.

[This message has been edited by 65Z16 (edited 12-11-99).]

So you think I should apologize for flaming 65Z16? Well you are intitled to your opinion, but I think I will leave it as is.

I deleted all my post since you find the information offensive.

jmw
Thanks for the info. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif Actually I built a 74 454 I bought out of a wrecking yard. I put a Chet Herbert hydrolic roller cam in it and used the Comp Cams retro-fit roller lifters. The cam is billet steel and I put a bronze cam gear on my distributor.
On a side note, I think we were all in the persuet of truth. Obviously we all have opinions. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif Sometimes we step on toes while trying to express these opinions. I hope we can all get along. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif (break into verses of the song "cumbaya" ) http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

[This message has been edited by Mr. D (edited 12-12-99).]

65Z16, I don't worry about the Wally's of the world. They have every right to chase their tails as much as they want.

Wally, if you were sure of your self, you shouldn't have edited or eliminated your statement. I did find it a bit of a flame twords 65Z16, but hey, he does know the source.

Keep chasing.

Guys, this forum is for sharing info, not ragging on anyone.

Please point that out to Wally.

I may have missed something but I was following this thread and although the information is now gone I didn't see any shots from Wally.


Wally: Date Registered: 03-30-99
Total Posts: 652

Wally has been here quite awhile and has been a great supporter on the tech pages and is also a Team Chevelle Member who financially helps support this site. We welcome all tech discussions, but this is not the sort of forum where personal issues are going to get involved. We have some simple policies that seem to be getting ignored, by whom remains to be seen.

[This message has been edited by Al (edited 12-13-99).]

if you want a really good set up for all around run a stock hei take the modulator out of it and run a M.S.D. 6a bobox with a M.S.D coil and the msd 8.5 plug wires and you will never have a problem with it ever again this is what i am running on my pro streeted 1970 chevelle and in the last 9 years i never had toreplace anything but plugs Scott Ploof JAx fl