Purchased a sand blast cabinet, I used the industrial grade fine sand from Sears but found it to be too coarse on the parts. I am going to try Glass Bead but there are several grades, Extra fine, Fine, Medium and Coarse.

For blasting parts smooth, removing paint, light rust etc, what would be the best grade to use and what PSI would be appropriate.

Thks


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70 SS - L34
Sea Mist Green
N.J.
Member # 442
www.chevelles.com/showroom/richr1 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/richr1)

I use Silica sand. Its almost like powder. I pay about $4-5 for a 70# bag. I have a Sears roll around hopper with about a 10ft hose between the hopper and nozzle. this allows me to blast large items outside when needed. This leaves a nice satin finish on parts and I adjust the psi as needed. Because silica is so fine, it may take a little longer for some types of removal, but it doesn't beat up your parts, and if painting is required, the finish is just right. Someday, when I get rich and famous, I'm going to get a nice cabinet also.

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Tom Parsons

[This message has been edited by DZAUTO (edited 12-02-99).]

Make sure to wear a good respirator with silica sand.
Rich

I always have trouble with the silica sand clogging (probably humidity). Our local blast shop suggested that I use crushed walnut shells in the blast cabinet. (They sell it by the bag.) I haven't tried it yet, but...

Any thoughts?

The same shop blasted a 56 Belair I painted with baking soda. It left a nice clean surface because they could control what they took off. It also left a coating that allowed me to leave the car in the garage for over 2 years before I started to do the body work. It never rusted.

Rich,
We use glass beads, but the bag does not have a grit number on it ??? I looked today for someone else but could only find a part number. If you have a store that sells Air Compressors and parts near you, they should be able to tell you the correct grit to use. Another option is to use industrial grade baking soda. It is actually used for blasting parts. The neat thing about the baking soda is that it is water soluble. You dont have to worry about the grit staying in parts and causing damage. It is not very expensive but does get used up quicker, and tends to make a "dust storm" in the cabinet. It is also available in most larger cities. Look in the Yellow Pages under abrasives. I dont know where you are at in Jersey, but there is a place in Baltimore that sells the baking soda, and they would probably ship to you.
As far as pressure goes, we use 60-70 lbs most of the time cleaning aluminum. Sometimes if stuff is real nasty I crank it up to 100-110 but that really wears out the glass beads faster. If you have any other questions, you are welcome to send me an e-mail.

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100



[This message has been edited by BillK (edited 12-02-99).]

Harbor freight sells glass bead. The good thing about them is if you buy over $50 worth of parts the shipping is free.

www.harborfreight.com

I experiment with the pressure based on the part to be blasted. Paint removal generally requires less pressure than rust removal. To high a pressure generally breaks down the glass bead or silica very quickly causing excessive dust. I normally keep pressure < 80 pounds, with a pressure blaster I normally use 60 pounds.

richr, look in the yellow pages under abrasives for your area, and speak with them. These people do this for a living and can definately set you up with the right stuff for what you are blasting, and pressure info too.

I have found the discount houses like Harbor Freight don't offer anything I can't get from one of the various dedicated suppliers in my area, with better selection/quality.

I buy 50 lb bags of #60 grit (medium) bead, costs $22.00/bag (will change aluminum finish). I also use crushed walnut shells for finer work (second blaster), won't hurt aluminum or plastics when low pressure is used.

Hey Guys,
I've used #60 silica sand for most of my restoration and clean up work. It's almost dangerous to use without a good respirator! Buy it at the home improvement store sometimes it's called "play sand". It can be very harsh on softer surfaces. Also had good luck with baking soda on softer surfaces, like fiberglass Corvette pieces, or brass or aluminum. It get's real dusty when used in a blast cabinet. I used it to clean off the fenderwells and firewall on my Corvette. It worked very well but is really messy. Eastwood Company www.eastwoodco.com (http://www.eastwoodco.com) sells a variety of blasting media including the walnut shells. I have used walnut shells and they work pretty good and don't damage the surface. However when used in a blast cabinet they wear out real fast and turn into dust. mgg

t

[This message has been edited by Manny Gomez (edited 12-03-99).]

[This message has been edited by Manny Gomez (edited 12-03-99).]

Some of the best blasting media I have ever used is Garnet. It strips well and lasts a long time.

65Z16 - the only problem is that there is no heading in my Yellow pages for abrasives. I have not been able to find a local retail dealer in my area. Buying abrasives from TIP or some other sandblast supplier can get very expensive when you include shipping. That is why I have bought some supplies from Harbor.