I sandblasted the frame from my 66 SS396. Upon all the advise recieved from this site, and the people from POR-15, I used metal ready on it. I applied the metal ready to the sandblasted frame, kept wetting it for 20 minutes (used a gallon of the stuff) then rinsed off and dried with an air hose as quickly as possible. Along with the phosphate coating, there is a really thin dusting of rust covering the entire frame! I can Honestly say there is more rust now then before I sandblasted it! I know that since I'm using por-15 on it, it will probably help it adhere better, but it just does'nt seem right to sandblast the entire frame and the get it rusty before painting. I have used metal ready before, and have had similar results, but only on stuff that I sandblasted. Anybody else run into this problem? Suggestions? I plan on just spraying it with por-15 black this weekend.

Whoa! That's interesting...I'm about ready to try Por-15 for the first time. I want to know what the deal is. I want to apply it once!

ETD66SS- I heard that the metal-ready is suppose to leave a zinc-phosphate coating to protect the metal???!!! It's just light surface rust right?

Can someone enlighten us?

ETD66SS, are you sure that's rust?

When the Metal Ready dried on my sandblastered frame, I assumed that light coating was the zinc-phosphate. The manual said there would be a powdery residue that should be wiped off with a damp rag. On my frame, the coating was yellow in most places, but kind of brownish in others--kind of looked like flash rust....

I just wiped it down, painted it, and now have what seems to be an impenetrable black shell on my frame. That POR15 is good stuff.

-- Tim Mattson

I have used POR-15 for about 5 years now with excellent results. I do not use the metal-ready but have used OSPHO instead. It leaves a zinc-phosphate coating but I have never had a coating of rust appear before applying the POR-15. I would say a call to the folks at POR should be able to straighten out your problem. I have used POR-15 over light rust (after I wire brushed) on patio furniture and then top coated with Rustoleum paint. I have not had any re-occurance of the rust and that was done 2 years ago. I live near the ocean and most everything outside here (including aluminum) takes a pretty good beating.

This is what my frame looked like after sandblast and metal ready.

www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8760/pics/Car018.JPG (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8760/pics/Car018.JPG)

It looks like rust, but up close it a golden brown color of the Zinc Phosphate. I didn't start painting until a week later and no rust had shown up yet. I'm really happy with the results of POR. You can see more pictures at www.athenet.net/~chevelle (http://www.athenet.net/~chevelle)

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JeffK ACES #01510
Team Chevelle Gold #72
JeffK@chevelles.com

[This message has been edited by JeffK (edited 06-24-99).]

Maybe it it's not rust, it sure looks like it though! So you think I should wipe it down with a damp cloth to get the residue off? When I used the metal ready on my engine block, it was more of a gray color, than this yellowish brown color, but when I bead blasted the oil pan then used mrtal ready, it also lookd like rust.
Jeff I really can't tell from your picture, but I think mine looks very similar, but maybe a bit darker in color. (could be the photo)

Even if you did have a light covering of rust, it should not matter. POR is made to Paint Over Rust. If you're still in doubt, give Restomotive a call.

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JeffK ACES #01510
Team Chevelle Gold #72
JeffK@chevelles.com

For what its worth I just did my frame three weeks ago, metal ready left a yellow/brown powder coat on the frame after rinsing, Just like POR folks told me it would. Painted the frame two days later with two coats of por15 & 2 coats of por chassis coat and I have no complaints. I've used both metal ready and POR15 on several items to date and everything looks great, except my forearms from spatter.
NOTE: I sprayed my 1st coat, then decided to brush on the rest. It seems to go much further with the brush, used spray to get in the tough spot.

How much POR-15 does it take to do the frame? (I'm going to spray the POR-15 & chassis black, probably 2 coats each) I got 8 little jars (the ones you get in the 6 pack & 1 qt. of chassis black) will this be enough?
Thanks!!

Why do you even have to use metal ready if por is made to paint directly over rust? Wouldn't this lead to less paint adhesion?

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Mike

Metal Ready is an etching solution. The frame in the picture above looks about like my fenderwell after I treated it with Metal Ready. Por 15 adheres best to rough surfaces. Clean bare metal is actually a poor adhesion surface for Por. They recommend bead blasting with aluminum oxide (not glass bead) or etching with Metal Ready. My fenderwell turned out great. Also, a little of this stuff goes a long way. You can use a brush. It flows out so well the brush marks become almost invisible.