Was wondering if anyone used a primer coat on their engine parts ie: intake mamifold, block, timing cover etc before painting with engine paint.

Would a regular primer from Plasti Kote hold up or do you need a special high heat primer.

Reason I ask is I just painted my timing cover and intake, I used a regular primer coat before top coating with engine paint. Wondering if it will hold up.

Thks

Rich

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70 SS - L34
Member # 442
www.chevelles.com/showroom/richr1 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/richr1)

I don't use any type of primer when painting an engine. For the most part I have found that engine paint will stick to most any surface of the block and stay there. I have had good luck with Plasti-Kote and Dupli-Color engine paints.

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Bryan Shook
Burgettstown, Pa.
1972 El Camino
www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/6673 (http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/6673)
Favorite Quote: Some people have shrinks. Some people have their garage.

Just use the plasti kote it works good lots of fine coats . I have also put there clear on to seal it

kirk 1970 ss

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Rich,
My gut tells me the regular primer won't hold up. My reasoning is that it is taking the direct heat from the engine component. Even if the high-temp holds on, the primer could peel away from the metal.
When I did my last resto many years ago, I believe I used PlastiKote right onto the block, etc. You need to do lots of light kotes http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Just use the plasti kote it works good lots of fine coats . I have also put there clear on to seal it

kirk 1970 ss

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If you have ever seen cars with engines painted the same color as the body you will realize that most auto paint will hold up well on engine components if the parts are CLEAN before painting. Prep the engine before painting by using a solvent to clean all oil and silicone residue. Then clean with soap and water. I have seen an engine in a modified truck painted this way with over 15k miles and the paint has held up fine. PPG Deltron Basecoat Urethane was used without a primer.

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'66 Chevelle SS396/375
'71 Karmann Ghia Convt.
'55 Chevy Convt.
'53 Chevy COE

[This message has been edited by ED1966SS (edited 01-12-2000).]

I primed my engine with DP90 before I painted it with acrylic emamel with dxr80 hardner. It looks good so far after a year.

Don,

Is DP90 just a regular primer? Would it be comparable to Plastikote's Snadable gray primer.

Also I will note the parts were soaked in paint remover, blasted and washed down with lacquer thinner before repainting.

I am dreading stripping these pieces down again, especailly that they look so great right now. But if I must, they are still off the car and now would be the time to do it.

Thks

Rich

DP 90 is a Black epoxy, self etching primer.

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Bryan Shook
Burgettstown, Pa.
1972 El Camino
www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/6673 (http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/6673)
Favorite Quote: Some people have shrinks. Some people have their garage.

Like Ed1966SS said,reg paint will work fine.
I used a can of reg primer and a bomb can of the same color paint on my car to paint my engine . After a year it looks fine.
Clean the engine with degreaser(brakeclean)and prime first.It's just like a fender or hood the paint sticks better with a primer...
Rick

The PPG DP series comes in various colors:

DP40 grey green
DP48 white
DP50 Gray
DP74 red oxide
DP90 black

My paint supplier is only stocking the LF(lead free) version of this paint. It also comes in DP60 LF - blue.

Use a primer color based on the top coat.

The biggest problem with engine paint adhesion is contaninants. Oil, silicone residue on the surface will not let ANY paint adhere very well. The most important part of painting any engine parts is prepping it. Clean it with a de-greaser first with a brush. Don't use water. Then use laquer thinner. Alot of it. Again using a clean brush and then rags. Now here's what works for me for Show car results. Use any kind of self etching primer. Spray a THIN coat on. Don't let it completely dry and wipe it off with a laquer-moistened rag. This lets the primer get into the deep pores of the metal and you won't have a build up of paint that can discolor the topcoat later on. I always topcoat with a two-part urethane Automotive paint. No spray cans. Spray can paint looks good for about a year then dulls out quickly. A good urethane paint will last years. If you don't have a compressor you can always buy one of those aerosol jars that you add your own paint to. It all depends on what you want your mototr to look like in two years from now.

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I've always used Plasti-Kote engine primer followed by their engine enamel and had excellent results. On the one I'm rebuilding now, I'm having it powder-coated instead - should look killer! Found a guy who powder-coats cheap and he's doing the block and heads for $150!! He's done all my brackets, pulleys, bellhousing, etc. It should make cleanup an absolute snap.

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Stan Hanek
'66 SS - 396 4 sp.
stan.hanek@weyerhaeuser.com

I just ordered the POR-15 engine painting kit. It looks like a solid way to do the engine and make it last.... I guess it had better for $40. Anyone else ever use this stuff? I know their other products are super.

sneal46

I use a product called Cast Blast. It has a finish like fresh sandblasted cast iron and works great as a primer. I've sprayed over it with regular spray paint and painted over it with the POR Engine paint.

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Lynn Robinson
Pacheco, Calif.
64 Malibu SS, 71 Camaro SS
"Just Hit the Ball and Touch em All"
Team Chevelle Member #246

If you are going to use primer , use a self etching primer. One thing good about self etching primer is you can go wet on wet with it,"paint over it while it's still wet"
I used Dupont's Variprime, and went over it with Seymor's engine enamel, it stuck fine.

I've always been told that you don't need to prime cast iron but things like the timing cover and rocker covers should be primed. I also agree that you can't be too careful when preping.