Changed out my temp sending unit today and cracked my weiand intake http://www.chevelles.com/forum/mad.gif It's a hairline crack but enough to leak when the motor running http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif What do you guy's/gal's think.

Thanks for the help Tom

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Tom
Southern,IL
67SS Yellow right now:(
Member #409

I'd grind the crack out a little and have someone TIG weld it. Just my preference, but I know people that do it.

yep,I agree with 4-speed,get it welded,good welder can do this for you,but get rid of the crack first like 4-speed said,dont j.b. weld it,might work,but this is like using body filler to fill a large dent,just not good---67rat member #199

I agree, welding is the right way to fix it.

Thanks Guy's

That's what I was thinking but wanted to make sure. When you say grind the crack out do you mean all the way throw the lenght of the crack and have someone weld the gap in??

Thanks Tom

I-Man I've sent you an email don't know if it got there my brain box here has been messing up (Gotta love Win98)

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Tom
Southern,IL
67SS Yellow right now:(
Member #409

The welder would probably do it for you, but you need an area to fill when welding it so that after you grind it, it will be flush. It would be strong enough by welding over the crack but would be unsightly since you wouldn't be able to grind the weld flush. It only needs to go partway thru the metal to get a good weld.

Weld it. But JB weld will will work in a pinch and take the heat. I used JB-Weld on the flanges of a set of headers to make the gasket surface larger. Much to my suprise JB Weld was still in tact when I replaced the headers http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif I have pictures.

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Dale
Lowered '67 Elcamino
ZZ430HP / 4L60
"Canyon Carver"
www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg)

IMO the best way to weld a block, head or intake is to locate the absolute very end of the crack and drill a small hole at that point into the water jacket. Then fill the hole and crack with weld. This insures that the crack will not continue to spread under the weld much like a windshield crack will spread over time.

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1967 Malibu
1967 Impala SS396 Conv.
"I don't have a solution but I admire the problem!"

JB weld is a metal filled epoxy (I think). Epoxies don't work very well if exposed to moisture. I wouldn't use it.

Since it sounds like the crack starts in the threads, I would just change intakes. If I did weld, I would surface weld stopping just near the threads. Retapping the aluminum with a weld bead inside won't work very well.


RLK
70SS ls6
71ss ls5 elk
72ss ls5 conv.

RLK

If you have the time, yank it off and carry it to a TIG equipped shop.

BUT, I cross thread the H2) inlet on my weiand intake. She leaked from the intial fill up! no heat. I was in a real bind for time and it happened on a friday night.

I used JB weld (the 24hour set stuff) and haven't had a problem yet. about 600 miles and pletny of 200-205 temp incounters.

--Have it welded, one day you may change it out agian and tighten it down only to feal it let go AGAIN!

JB Weld will work if you are in a bad situation. Had a problem with my intake 6 years ago and had to use JB Weld..........it still holds today, no problems. BUT, the best way is to drill a hole at the small end to prevent any further crack running then prepare the crack and weld it.

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All throttle......no bottle.

knipe,GTO68TX, just for "Gee Whiz" info that's called "stop drilling" the hole.

I wonder.....If it would be better to install a steel plug in the hole (not tight) just to "hold" the shap of the hole before fill welding the grinded area??? Plus you could Alum. weld all the way against the threaded area without anything falling into the hole........just a thought


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"Laissez Le Bon Temp Rouler' Cha!"

"Jungle" Jim
#105 Gold
70SS396 & 70 Malibu
"I don't drive FAST, I just FLY low!"