hi - i'd like to swap a late 80's 4spd auto 700R4 into my 70 chevelle, but i've noticed a lot of vacuum connections related to the transmission in the EGR list. which if any of these are critical? what's the minimum i need? just the pressure TV? thanks
nice and new - "chevelle 2000"

why not swap for a 200 4r and save the $ cutting the drive shaft etc. it's a direct bolt replacement (just move back the crossmember,bend the lines, and hook up the lockout (if desired) and the TV cable jk

------------------
members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/chevelle9.jpg (http://members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/chevelle9.jpg) members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/350.jpg (http://members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/350.jpg)
John Krenn
1970 malibu SS look-a-like well kinda
350/200-4r (soon to be 383)

Ft.Worth, Tx

what cars had a 200? the real reason is the POS suburban sitting in my backyard.

gkopeck
None of the vacumn lines are necessary for operation of the 700. You need a 12 volt wire for the torque converter lockup & a TV cable.
The drive shaft is no big deal. I don't understand everyones concern about this. It cost me $60.00 to have mine shortened, balanced & new ujoints (5 yrs ago). A 200 will cost more than that.
The cooling lines match up, the shift linkage (column) matches right up. Your frame already has the holes necessary to move the x-member back, the tranny mount works, the speedo cable is in the same location. Its an easy swap.
For some more good info go to The Drive Train Page (http://www.thegrid.net/thedrivetrainpage/700inst.htm) . It is one of the links at Chevelles.Net (http://chevelles.net/links)
If I can do the swap anyone can.

------------------
Rick
72 El Camino (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/rick2.jpg)
TPI350/700r4
TC#00038
ACES#00140

Quoted from Rick: "It cost me $60.00 to have mine shortened, balanced & new ujoints (5 yrs ago). <b>A 200 will cost more than that.</b>"

What does that mean? or am I missing something obvious?

[This message has been edited by Vitriol (edited 03-01-2000).]

fun day. mission accomplished but i can't get the shifting action to work right.
it shifts up ok but won't shift down.

you may have a problem shifting below 3rd (my 200 did) i went with a floor shifter (wanted one anyway) and love it. glad you have it in already. what a difference huh?

------------------
members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/chevelle9.jpg (http://members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/chevelle9.jpg) members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/350.jpg (http://members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/350.jpg)
John Krenn
1970 malibu SS look-a-like well kinda
350/200-4r (soon to be 383)

Ft.Worth, Tx

Vitriol
I assumed that he had the 700 in the suburban in his back yard. But he would have to find a 200.
rick

gkopeck,

When I put the 700 in my 68 Elky w/ column shift, I had to replace the powerglide shift linkage with a setup that I found on an S-10 in the junkyard. I was able to adjust the rod enough to get down to 2nd gear. After that I had to weld a piece of metal to the lever coming off the column near the firewall. It increased the radius enough so that I have control of all the gears now. I only added ¾" of bar and drilled a hole for the shift rod. Hope this helps.

Also, if you want the convertor to unlock when passing on the highway (without enough accelleration for kickdown), you can use a vacuum switch in series with your lockup circuit. You may have such a switch on your suburban. I found mine on an old buick that had an overdrive.

Chad

[This message has been edited by cjlandry (edited 03-02-2000).]

to unlock...tell me more...i want to be able to step on the accelerator and have it down shift to a lower gear, i.e. passing.
i need a separate vacuum line for that?

Your passing gear should operate off of the cable going from the carb linkage to the trans. This cable also controls your shift points.

Some models of 700 tranny don't have the cable. I think they're controlled electrically like the TH400.

The vacuum switch for unlocking the converter can be a pain until you get used to it. Under mild accelleration on the highway it tends to lock/unlock/lock/unlock/lock/unlock/... etc. etc. ad infinitum.

To overcome this problem with mine since I'm rewiring and originality isn't an issue with me, I'm installing two switches in the lockup circuit. One is in series with the circuit and the other is in parallel with the vacuum switch. When the switch that's in series is open, it will disable all lockup operations. When the parallel switch is closed, it will disable the vacuum switch so it will be unable to unlock the converter (going up mild grades, etc.).

You'll also want to get the brake pedal switch for the lockup circuit. A regular brake light switch has one normally open contact which closes to activate your brake lights. The switch on the lockup circuit needs to be normally closed so it will open when you apply the brakes and unlock the converter. So your brake pedal switch will have two sets of contactors. One normally open for the brake lights, and one normally closed for the lockup circuit. As an alternative you could parallel a small relay into the brake light circuit and run your lockup through the normally closed contactors of the relay.

Drop me an e-mail if any of this is unclear and I'll try to give a better explanation.

Chad Landry
'68 El Camino
Baton Rouge, LA

[This message has been edited by cjlandry (edited 03-03-2000).]

If you are worried about the lockup you can buy a kit fron B&M, I think that it costs about $70. This will allow you to set your lockup where ever you want it. I plan on putting a 700R4 in my 70 this summer and have been reading alot about it and a good site is 700r4.com

------------------
1970 Chevelle Malibu dark blue 350/T350

The B&M kit is B&M part # 70244. Summit Racing sells this for $159.95. I'm not personally familiar with it.

Painless Wiring part # 60109 sells for $118.95. It has all the parts I mentioned plus a replacement solenoid and 4th gear pressure switch. It's a very straightforward install. I helped a friend with one.

It's a very simple circuit and if you have the parts available on the donor car, there's no reason to spend the extra money.

C.W.Mellow provided us all with a nice website in his post. There is excellent information available there, especially regarding the TV Cable (I wonder if we can get HBO on these things :P ).

Chad