I've looked in the help topics, but it covers the external to internal regulator mod.

If you go from external to 1-wire, what do you do with the 4 wires on the regulator, and the 2 wires on the alternator plug?

I'm thinking about doing this conversion.

>>>Rod<<<

------------------
>>>Rod<<<
A.C.E.S. # 2894
Team Chevelle #115

Rod, check this out. Should answer all your questions.
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref14.html

------------------
Philip Valentine
Team Chevelle Member #42 GOLD
philip@chevelles.com

I just did my '68 SS (with idiot lights) a month ago, and what a difference! Constant bright headlights, no more flickering dash lights at idle, etc.

Here's all there is to it:

Install new 65 amp internal regulator, an easy bolt on. While you're buying the alternator, get a two prong alternator plug (red & white wire), these are commonly available. From the old alternator's harness, connect the red wire to the main stud on the new alternator. Also connect the new plug's red to the main stud. Connect the old harness white to the new plug white. Abandon the blue wire. Remove the plug from the old mechanical regulator, and connect the brown wire to the white wire. Abandon the other two wires. That's it! I can't believe I didn't do it a long time ago.

Aren't both of these replies about the internal regulated "CS" alternator -

I'm talking about the "1-wire".

>>>Rod<<<

Rod;

The "technical reference" page does NOT cover the one wire alternator! The reason is that I've never done the installation myself and tend to want to write only about only things I've personally done.

I guess that I should include it. It seems real popular. (I had heard rumors that the one-wire alternators tended to run hot, it may be un-justified!)

The only problem that I have with the idea of a one-wire alternator is that the "idiot" light will not function. I like the idea of knowing right away that the fan belt has been tossed!



------------------
Wes. Vann
Technical Reference & Wagons sections
Gold Member #5

Wes -

If you threw your fan belt, and if your luck runs like mine - it threw every **&%$ belt under the hood! No PS, NO A/C - water temp start rising, but more importantly - wouldn't your voltage start decreasing??, or some other trend?

>>>Rod<<<

If you want to run a 1 wire alternator, just bolt it on and run a hot lead from the battery or starter to the 12v terminal on the alternator. I have never seen any advantage to doing this and if you break down on the road will you be able to find a replacement? I like to stick to off the shelf parts just for that reason. just my opinion.

------------------
Philip Valentine
Team Chevelle Member #42 GOLD
philip@chevelles.com

Hey guys,
I have a 120 amp Powermaster one wire on my 65 and it works fine......did add a voltmeter though so I could watch out for thrown belts and other gremlins. mgg (Gold # 209)

[This message has been edited by Manny Gomez (edited 08-01-99).]

Manny,

So did you do anything with the wires that originally went to the alternator, and the
wires on the regulator? I know that at least one wire comes from the ignition switch
on the regulator (the energizing lead?).

Or do you just abandon everything?. Or did
you actually pull all those wires out? It would seem to clean up a bunch of stuff.

Wes - what's your thought on this? As an aside, I am adding a digital voltmeter.

>>>Rod<<<

Hey Rod,
I did a little of both; made a new # 8 hot wire for the connection between the alt and horn relay, rolled up the original alt wires, taped them off, and hide them back in the fender well (didn't want to cut up the original harness) and generally cleaned things up. The regulator can come completly off and you can make a set of simple block off wires for the regulator plug. mgg

[This message has been edited by Manny Gomez (edited 08-01-99).]

RBK;

As far as I know (don't bank on it), you can discard the wires that go to the original voltage regulator (and then to the alternator).

I'm running a CS alternator and it's installation is the basis of the "techref". The voltage gauge that I have reads right around 13.5 volts anytime the engine is running. If the belt broke, the reading would drop down to around 12 volts (the battery output) and then would start going down as the battery is drained. My comment on idiot lights is keeping in mind that I probibly wouldn't notice the change on the gauge. The idiot light jumps into your face!

The comment in one of the prior posts about being able to get a replacement "off the shelf" isn't totally correct due to having to swap the belt pulley. Although any Pep Boys would have the alternator, they may not be able to pull the pulley off and change it.

I don't have anything against the one wire alternators, but I can say that I'm REAL happy with the set-up I have.



------------------
Wes. Vann
Technical Reference & Wagons sections
Gold Member #5

I noticed gibbens used the white wire and did not use the blue wire, but in the tech ref. they used the blue wire and did not use the white Does using either wire work?