I pulled my dads 455 out, had it rebuilt, and now am putting it back together.

1) water pump bolts . . . one on the drivers side down towards the bottom doesn't seem to thread into anything?? There is a hole but it won't thread in??

2) Should I put sealer on the oil filter adapter where it mounts to the block??

3) Where do temp sensors, vacuum lines, etc attach??

I had taped the engine before we took it apart. Then my dad left his tape in his VCR and it was taped over. (my dad is 72 so he sometimes forgets things . . . heck I am only 38 and I forget things too!! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif )

anyone have some good pics of a completely stock olds engine I can examine??

His car is a 1971 olds 442 convert. with a 455. NO a/c.

Thanks for any and all help!! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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Mr. D
72 454 El Camino
68 RS/SS Camaro
73 RS/LT/Z28 Camaro
99 Firebird TA WS-6 A4 Color: Pewter

[This message has been edited by Mr. D (edited 08-15-2000).]

wazzzup Tim? How ya been? Long time no hear. So it looks like you've taken on a engine rebuild. Well, I don't know jack about olds, but I sure do like them. Hopefully, mr 4 speed will reply to this thread. He likes em a whole lot. I'm sure he's got the answer your looking for. Nice to see your still at it. Take care Tim... Steve

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70 Chevelle(408ci,TH350,3.73's)
78 Camaro Z28(350ci,4spd./M22,3.73's)
Team Chevelle #665
STEVO-70 (http://home.utah-inter.net/marcel)

Hey Steve!!

I've been WAY buisy this summer. My dads olds is just one of the MANY things I have goin on.

My 73 camaro that I was to sell is ready to be picked up from the paint shop. My 19 year old son bought it from me and we took it to be painted (new 1/4s etc) about a month ago.

Anyway, see ya around. I'm outa here for today.

Hows the 406 going??

Tim, that's great your son got the car. He is now a muscle head like us. I really want to see the finished product(73 camaro). When you get a chance post a pic here or e-mail me one. Good luck and I will update you and everyone on the 408!!!!! Steve....

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70 Chevelle(408ci,TH350,3.73's)
78 Camaro Z28(350ci,4spd./M22,3.73's)
Team Chevelle #665
STEVO-70 (http://home.utah-inter.net/marcel)

Thanks,Tom you can also check www.442.com (http://www.442.com) they have a good tech reference.

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1970 Chevelle SS396/L78/M21/4.10
1972 Olds 442 convertible(455,W25,M40)
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass 350 Olds,TH350(daily driver)
"Be aware of the possible ramifications of the potential outcome"



[This message has been edited by mr 4 speed (edited 08-15-2000).]

Tim,
I am the original owner of 76 FACTORY 5sp Cutlass S with a 455 that I built (could not get the 455 with the 5sp), and replaced the original B-W 5sp with a Richmond 5sp.

1. The water pump has 4-5/16in bolts (2 on each side next to the outlets) which are threaded into the block itself. Then there are some 1/4in bolts on the very bottom and top of the pump that ONLY thread into the stamped steel timing cover. These 1/4in bolts DO NOT go into the cast iron block. If the threaded hole in the block for the 5/16 bolts is striped out, it can be helicoiled. If it is one of the holes in the stamped steel timing cover, that is striped, I believe I would try to find another good cover. You COULD have the hole welded and then drill and tap it. You could try, but I'm not sure a helicoil would work in the cover.

2. Mine has a gasket (which came in the gasket set). Although I do not remember using sealer on the gasket, I just cannot imagine installing the filter adapter WITHOUT putting sealer on each side of the gasket (because of the oil pressure).

3. My FACTORY temp sender was (and still is) screwed into the water passage at the front of the intake manifold (left side of thermostat housing). ALL of my vac lines (except for the brake booster) attach to a multi-outlet fitting screwed into one of the runners at the rear of the intake. The brake booster line is screwed into the base of the carb. If your car has the original engine, then it DOES NOT have the provision for an EGR valve, on the intake manifold, next to the carb base (my 76 does and I blocked it off with a steel plate). Mine also has another threaded hole on the other side of the thermostat housing for an emissions fitting into the water passage. I plugged the hole. The VERY back, right side of my intake has a threaded hole for the heater valve.

Extra tips.
Your engine uses a rope rear main seal at the rear of the crank. If you don't install it JUST PERFECT, get ready for a constant oil leak. But there is a better way. Use the rear main seal for a 460 FORD. OK, so what do you want, a 4 letter word or an oil leak?

Olds engines DO NOT have adjustable rocker arms like a Chevy. Comp Cams has a cure. They have a kit: pushrods, studs, guide plates, roller tipped rocker arms, balls and nuts, which will allow you to be able to adjust your lifters JUST LIKE A CHEVY. Yes, kind of expensive, but worth EVERY dime. Check Summit, Jegs for the best prices.

The stock oil filter is the real short version. There is a long version available and it is HARD to find. I have a Fram PH11 on mine. Now, when you cross that over to an AC oil filter, it comes up to an AC24, which is the SHORT filter. So far, I have NEVER been able to find a long AC oil filter to fit an Olds. WIX shows to have a long filter, 51049, but I have never used it. WIX are supposed to be superior to Fram. I will probably try a WIX next change.

And last, back to the water pump. A few years ago on the road when I was towing the 56 Vette on the trailer, the pump started leaking bad. I was near a friends house in another town (someone was looking down on me). Got a rebuilt at NAPA, and when I removed the old pump, one of the 5/16 bolts broke off at the block (rusted pretty bad). This was neither the time or place (I was hurting for time) to pull everything out from in front of the engine so that I could get in position to drill/tap the hole (and maybe have to helicoil the hole). So, I put LOTS and LOTS of sealer on both sides of the gasket. This has been 5-7yrs ago. Hasn't leaked a drop yet!!!! If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Maybe next time I will change it at home and will be able to get down there and clean out the hole. AND, AND, AND, I WILL go back with stainless steel bolts on each side of the water pump outlets into the block. This area is seriously prone to rusting!
Hope this helps.

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Tom Parsons

[This message has been edited by DZAUTO (edited 08-15-2000).]

DZ hit the nail on the head with a very complete answer. However on the oil filter adapter, there is a metal gasket that goes there and in over 30 years of messing with 455's I have never needed any sealer.

hmmmmmm......Tom,
I guess I'm the exact opposite of you. I used to put sealer on every gasket (except Head gaskets) then, one day I thought....If the gasket maker wanted sealant on these they would have said so on the little info papers in the box. So, I stopped using it on them. Now don't get me wrong this does'nt mean I don't subsitute RTV in place of a gasket when needed....

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"Jungle" Jim
#105 Gold
70SS396 & 70 Malibu
"I don't drive FAST, I just FLY low!"

OK, now that Jimmie has said it , I agree that it is true. You do not need gasket goop on every danged gasket if you have good gaskets and good surfaces to seal. When I worked in the gasket business, we thought that a good gasket woud seal without anything to help it, unless it was one of those steel shim types. One problem that can result from putting gasket goop on them is that the gasket can slip out from its appointed location because the gasket goop is a pretty good lubricant (before it dries).

[This message has been edited by JWagner (edited 08-15-2000).]

Stevo
Here is a pic of the two guys from Iceland that are doing the camaro.
http://www.imagehost.auctionwatch.com/preview/du/dugo/73joncamaro3.jpg (http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/preview/du/dugo/73joncamaro3.jpg)

mr 4 speed
Thanks for the link. I go check it out. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Tom
Thanks for the great descriptions!! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif I am going over to my dads to work on it tonight. I'll look things over and hopefully I can get it finished up. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

I'll have to check into the setup from summit. for now I think my dad just wants to get it running so he can cruise with the top down before those summer nights are over. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

mstacy
thanks for sharing your experience with the gasket. I think you are right about the metal gasket. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

As far as the rest of you guys are concerned . . . gasket sealer, no gasket sealer, etc. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif

Maybe I'll put sealer on half of the gasket and leave the other half dry and see which side leaks!! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

Thanks again. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif
Tim (Mr.D)


[This message has been edited by Mr. D (edited 08-16-2000).]

got a few more questions:

1) where does the round tube the positive wire goes through mount??

2) The three vacuum port switch on the front of the intake . . . which is the vacuum advance and where do the others go?

thanks guys!!
D

Also,
There is a small 1 port vacuum port at a 90 degree angle in front of the carburator in one of the runners. Any idea what hooks to it??

Positive cable tube:my 442 has a bracket that's on the frame that the tube is mounted on near the proportioning valve.I've also seen the tube fastened to the back of the cylinder head.Distributor vacuum control switch:bottom port:manifold vacuum,middle port:distributor,top port:vent

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1970 Chevelle SS396/L78/M21/4.10
1972 Olds 442 convertible(455,W25,M40)
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass 350 Olds,TH350(daily driver)
"Be aware of the possible ramifications of the potential outcome"