Bought a new front end kit from PST and new front springs from Year One for my 69 chevelle. Can I handle this install myself or would I be smart to let my GURU handle it. I'd like to because I want as much "ownership" as I can get, on the other hand I,ve never done one before. Does'nt look too tough on the PST info. Would probably tackle it this winter in my shop. Any thoughts appreciated. thanks. JRM

You can do it. Be sure to rent a coil spring compressor.....Auto Zone rents em for nothing....as long as you return them.
Also....you will need to take the control arms to a machine shop and have them press out the old bushings and install the new ones.....as well as the bottom ball joints. Other than that you should be able to handle it.

Shannon

Do it yourself, it is not hard and is rewarding. I just did my 64. I bought a press from Harbor Freight Tools for $99 so I could do it all, now have a press for other work.
I used log chains to hold my springs and it worked great.
Do it, have fun.

I just finished mine last weekend and it wasn't bad, did most of it Saturday, finished it Sunday morning. If you have an air hammer, it's a piece of cake, if not you should take the a arms to a machine shop. You need to take the center metal sleeve out first, then cut a chunk of the rubber out with a hack saw, and then take all the rubber out, then the air hammer will do the rest. The best way to install the new bushings, is put them in the freezer over night and then grease them up and use a small 4lb sledge, they go right in. Hope this helps.

JRM;

Do it yourself!

Try to line up a friend that has done it before for guidance and recommendations.

THINK SAFETY!

You will need a spring compressor (rent) and also have a frame shop press out the old bushings and press in the new bushings.

This will sound stange, but count on it taking a few days so have the car someplace where it is safe. The reason I say this is so that if you run into any problems (like the frame shop messing up a bushing and you have to locate another) you can still do it right. While apart, why not sandblast and paint the arms.

Yes, the job really can be done in a day if you have already contacted the frame shop and they will do them while you wait.

Wes.

The key word is "Internal" spring compressor. The outside style will not work to compress the spring and drop down out of the way. Treat the spring with respect. Its dangerous if somehow it got loose.

You can do it yourself. I'm in the middle of the job as well.

I will say that I'm going through **HELL** with machine shops in my area. Maybe it is just a Metro-NYC area phenomenon, but NOBODY wants to do this job for me. Maybe it's a liablility thing, maybe it is because I'm supplying the materials and arms, so there is little to no profit margin left for the shop. I've heard BAD things that happen to any car left at some of these places, so that idea is WAYYYY out of the picture. It is very frustrating that virtually NO-ONE wants to establish a working relationship with me. Here's my money!!! Anybody want it? Anyone?!?!?

I've taken the control arms to a number of machine shops. Some of them told me they could do the job *before* I brought them the arms. Stories suddenly change and they basically shoosh me out of the shop like I have the plague.

I just picked up the arms this morning from a shop that had agreed to the work and started to do it. After pressing out all of the originals and pressing in three new one they encountered a slight difficulty (they destroyed one bushing by going too fast with the pressing) and stopped all work completely. One of the top control arm bushings can be inserted by hand (too loose). They gave me back the arms saying they don't want to be involved (read "liable").

I called PST about the crushed bushing. They said that bushings should be greased with lithium grease and pressed *slowly*. They are replacing it for me, thankfully. Be aware that the bushings are a few thousanths oversized than other bushings like Moog. PST claims that this is to take up for fatigue and age. My lower control arms appeared to have factory bushings

A test fit of the rest of the bushing seems to show that the rest want to go in, so maybe the freezer technique will work for me there. I am concerned about the loose fitting top bushing. Should I get everything tack-welded (ala the factory) after everything is in place. I really want to do this job ONCE.

To sum up, you can do it yourself. I am experiencing difficulty, but I think that that is because of the area I live in and that there is too much more lucrative work to be done around here. Best of luck to you.

Gang;

The problem that Michael is having may be due to going to "machine shops" (just a guess). Although they have a press, they may not have the blocks to support the arm correctly.

Before I do a job like this, I drive over to the "frame shop" that I like and check his schedule. That way I know if they can do them real quick if I drop them off in the morning. It also allows me to check prices before the car is all in pieces.

As far as a loose bushing, I ended up putting small tack welds on them in order to make sure that they don't move. (stock rubber bushings)

Wes.

The easiest method for replacing controll arm bushings was described by the old H-O Racing Specialties company.

DON'T press out the outer sleeves that are such a bugger. Burn the old rubber out, clean up the old outer sleeve (still in the controll arm) with sandpaper/sand blaster/Swiss Army Knife/your teeth/whatever. Install the new poly bushing with the new inner sleeve into the old outer sleeve. Simple, easy, painless. It's the best reason for using Poly bushings- the labor to install them is dramatically reduced over rubber bushings. Consider the better handling a bonus! By the way, with the poly bushings, there is no need to have the vehicle at normal ride height to torque the suspension bolts, either. Torque 'em with the front end up in the air, where it's easier to get at the fasteners. You MUST have the vehicle at normal ride height to torque fasteners if you use rubber bushings!!!!!

Go for it. I've been doing front end work for over 25 years-I see we have another longtime A body fan in Schurkey-the H-O "use the old sleeve" trick is a winner (H-O was a Pontiac group out of Torrance, CA about 10 years ago). The freezer thing is a great help. Be sure to inspect the lower control arms closely (maybe even bead blast them). Cracks into the bushing holes are not uncommon. Measure the length of your old tie rod sets-from knuckle to drag link-and adjust your new ones to the same length. This greatly simplifies the new alignment job. Definitely use an inside spring compressor. I've used everything from chains to floor jacks and shock absorbers, trust me (and most everybody else) on this one. One other (cheap) special tool you need is a "pickle fork." It is used to separate ball joints quickly and cleanly, without beating the hell out of them. Plan to get your hands dirts & have a good time.

I've just done my second complete front end within 6 months. WHERE were you guys with the "use the old outer sleeve"!! Man, I wish I had thought of that! And I have to admit, I don't use a spring compressor. I just give it a nudge with a pry-bar while standing in front of the vehicle. I put a thick blanket in front of the spring to catch it when it comes out. No problems yet! Although I wouldn't advise anyone to use that method!

A good, heavy chain threaded through the shock absorber hole in the lower control arm, up through the spring, then out through the coils on the inboard side will keep the spring from flying out. Connect the ends of the chain with a strong bolt.
This should lower your stress levels while installing the spring. Incidentally, I had trouble with my rented compressor, so I ended up using the chain, then lowering and raising the control arm with a floor jack. Worked perfectly!
Rich