just had a 400 rebuilt with lots of good parts and balanced and degreed. Got 60 mi. down the road and sounds like a rod bearing is gone.horrible racket.It's suposed to have a 12000 mi gaur.Question is how do I approach the situation does the engine need to be torn down completly? would there be chunks of metal throughout to worry about? threaten to kill them or be nice?

My experiences tell me to take it back and let them hear it and correct it BEFORE you get angry. They may pleasantly surprise you, you DID get a warranty in writing didn't you ???
IF they do not honor a LEGIT. warranty, then is time to get angry and take action.Better business bureau, State Atty. General, lawyer, whatever.

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Tommy,
First of all, I have got to ask you, have you ever made a mistake ???? Before you start calling someone a crook, give him a chance to fix the mistake. On to the problem, the motor should be disassembled completely if it is a bearing problem in order to clean it properly. There is a bunch of things that can cause a bearing failure in a new motor that are beyond the control of the engine builder, including a bad bearing, bad fuel pump dumping gas into the motor, improper starting procedure etc. Give the shop a chance to fix it and hopefully everything will go ok.

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

400 eh? could be a rod bolt just tapping the pan, they might could fix this in 2 minutes with a hammer. maybe a rocker arm...there's alot of small things that could need minor adjustment in the first miles. relax, take it back, they'll fix it, when you drop alot of cash to have stuff blueprinted and balanced you should get good service.
just a hunch man.

Bill just said it all in a nut shell. I am not going to place blame here, but everyone needs to think of a few things. If the shop did everything in its power to build a good engine and you for instance get everything together and go to start it and never prime the engine (get oil pressure!!) before running it or try to prime it and you forgot to put oil in it,do you think the shop should pay for the repairs and warranty the engine??? I think not,they can charge full price to fix it and some will and others will charge just costs to keep you a happy customer.Ask to be present when the engine is taken apart, by looking at the bearings you can tell alot about what happend. Builing an engine is a very simple task to those of us that have built many of them and do it for a living. There really is not much that can go wrong if no mistakes were made,but we are all human and can make one. Give them a chance,if they are a good shop and stand behind what they build and they made a mistake they will fix it. The same go's that if they make every attempt to help you out and clearly point out that what happend was your fault take it on the chin and pay for the repairs to fix it. Don't let them ripp you off make shure you have a complete understanding of everything that is said and even take some pictures protect your self and let them know you are willing to work with them if it is a problem caused by them,and ask them to work with you if you are the one that caused the failure to happen. Most builders make money by word of mouth and if you can tell someone "Ya so and so built me this kick ass engine I love it, even though it spun a bearing due to a incorrect sized rod (or what ever)they took care of me and I would recomend them to anyone". After all a good rep means they run good and if they break and it's your fault you make it right.

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CRUISER


[This message has been edited by Joe Harrison (edited 12-23-98).]

[This message has been edited by Joe Harrison (edited 12-23-98).]

Thanks to all for your insight on this situation . I appreciate all your advice. I agree that if the responseabilty is with our primeing procedure we should pay for it .I have started many engines and never had this problem. I will approch it with a positive attitude. thanks again I love this site.

Before you get too ticked. Do you have an automatic? If so did you replace the flexplate with a 400 flex? Sounds silly but I rebuilt a 350 earlier this year and could have sworn I had a bearing going. It was the flex. The previous owner had unknowingly installed a 400 flex. They are not interchangeable. This caused the flex to crack and sounded like something was loose internally. Easy fix but caused alot of stomach pain. Check it out it may be something simple.

My engine guy gave me 12,000 miles or 1 year, which ever comes first warranty on the 350 in my pickup. When #1 rod started knocking at 7,000 miles I figured I was SOL because 17 months had gone by.
He tore it down and re-did it at no charge to me except I had to pull it out and put it back in.
He could have said it was out of warranty but he was very nice about it.

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Dean

http://macc.chevelles.net

Well the engine builder says he will take care of the problem. I pulled it out Sat. It makes it nice when everything is clean.This will give me the chance to replace or rebuild the few parts that dident get done the first time.I'm still a little nervious as to wheather they will be honest if it ruined the cam etc.I did put a new flexplate as the orig. had some damaged teeth thanks for the idea though.

If they are taking care of it for you ask them what happened, tell them you understand that mistakes can be made and you would like to know what it was that caused the failure.By doing this you will know what happened and put it to memory to avoid the same mistake yourself. The cam should be of some concern you should look it over very closely for imbedded metal and scoring if it has any you need to replace it, look for any metal to metal ware also and DO NOT REUSE THE OLD LIFTERS!!!!!. The chace that they are filled with junk from the failure is very good and just don't reuse them it is a very bad idea.Make sure they polish the crank and check all the rods to make sure they are still round and the right size. After a failure make sure the block has been cleaned as well as the oil pump and send all your tin(valve covers oil pan intake and oil pickup tube)are cleaned in the jet cleaner.

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CRUISER