ok, here's the combo

454
11-1 forged
canfield aluminum 310 heads
solid roller 252/254 .585 .578
air-gap
holley 1000hp
MSD pro-billit dist.
digital 6
4spd

ok timing is weights only no vac adv. on the distributor. 16 in 36 total

after getting the carb delema settled (i had a bad 950hp)i think,, i've set the idle at 850 or so, i've upped the timing to the above and idled it down. it still diesels quite a bit on shut-down.... now iv'e been reading on the carb adjustment and i thought i had it right. although i need a tad bigger shot up in rear.. it runs great and has 87's in all 4 corners. i haven't messed with the rear plate adjustment should i? i need some clues.. it's down right embarassing smile.gif

oh, forgot car runs 180-195 at the HOTest... it'll do it at 180 , gets up to 195 if it's 100* outside and on highway at 2500-7 rpms.. running fairly cool plugs also.

How much cranking compression do you have?
Is 850 the lowest it will idle?
Does it ping while driving?

If it's a 4 corner idle carb you may not have the primary and sec throttle blades sync'd up properly. I.E. the primary blades are open too much and the sec blades are closed off. Try opening the sec blades by turning the sec idle screw clockwise 1/4 turn and backing off the primary 1/4 turn. Your idle should end up at the same rpm, test it out and adjust again if needed...

Dennis makes a good point. I was having some carb tuning troubles a couple a months ago with my Mighty Demon. I pulled the carb off and adjusted the throttle blades exactly the same for primary and secondary, and made sure they exposed the right amount of the transfer slot. With that setting, the engine idled at 850-900 RPM, and that's where I left it. Change one squirter and the jets and the carb was in real good tune.

well, i think i may.... MAY have licked the problem.. i adjusted the idle mixtures as perfect as i could while still bringing the idle down to 750 or so... still have about 8" of vac. which is ok i guess. no dieseling... but that's low idle for that solid roller, but so far so good.... i also noticed my timing was up at 20-40 it likes timing but this explains my clattering under 4th gear load (2000rpm or so and i floor it).. we'll see what happens when i get my reverse shift lever and i can actualy back it out of my drive :rolleyes: (that's another story)...

ok, problem NOT solved, but i saw where i should open the rear blades (i guess i kept thinking i should shut them LOL) i can't think of anything else, no vac leaks, timing is 16/36 93octane, idle at 7-800rpm, and it ONLY happens when it's warmed up 165-180* (it never goes over 185*) i've changed to a cooler plug, octane booster, and idled it down as much as i can and timed it up as much as i can... i'll try opening the rear blades a bit and see if that helps... i've also noticed it will diesel/debtonate upon start up sometimes graemlins/angry.gif

UPDATE (and it ain't good :( ) i've pulled the carb and adjusted the rear's so the transfer slot was "square", it was closed all the way... after running the car it idled way too high 1200 range and the closing the front down all the way did no good (so i assume it was just running off the back) soooo i closed the back 1/2 turn but that will make it so the slots almost don't show at all :confused: and it idles about right but the fronts again don't do much, if i open them it idles up too high again. then i had to re-adjust the idle mixture again. the dieseling problem is a bit less but still there (1 or 2 coughs)

my question is do i shut the rear's down more? if so the transfer slots will not show at all! and that damn screw is a bitch to turn (like it's galled in there)...i dunno, im so damn frustrated, but i guess turning them in more won't hurt as i've got nothing else going for me :rolleyes:

ok, MORE bad news.... it's still there, and i have more issues i guess... i found the intake leaking underneath, so i re-gasketed it. and rebuilt the carb while i was at it.... now 2 things after i throttle the carb up, then it comes down it dies.... and won't restart unless i give it some gas... it will idle fine otherwise unless i wrap the gas... and the dieseling is still there..... i've dribbled some water down it, set the timing at 15/35 now, and adjusted the idle mixtures for max vacuum. the throttle blades are about right but not showing any transfer slot in the back, and idled it down to 850-900rpm... i can't figure it out....

A few things. Are you running the 8361 dist? Check the weights to make sure they are not froze and move freely. You should be able grab rotor and turn advance by hand and it should spring back. What rpm does it total out? If it is the vacuum adv. is it working and do you have it to a ported vacuum port on the carb? Scratch the vacuum I seen that you do not have it. On the carb your plates at idle slots should look like a very small pen head. Are both sides of the plate the same? Do you have a gap on your acc pump, between the acc pump and arm that has adjusting screw with spring (pump shot)? If it is to tight it will bleed to much fuel at idle and be rich beyond idle screw control. You can start with 10 to 15 thousands and adjust as necessary. If you start at 15 and hit the throttle if it stumbles try 12 and so on. Of coarse this is when motor is at operating temp. Another thing are you sure your timing mark on the balancer is correct and has not slipped (spun on the rubber dampener)? It is a common thing to happen. It would through your timing off. I assume you are running good premium gas. I hope this helps some.

ok, the distributor seems to be working fine, weights/springs etc. all free and it comes in around 2000rpm (i have a digital mac timing light so i can check all the way thru) the blades are NOT showing any of the transfer slot, if they do then the car idles WAY too high (maybe this is a problem)and i don't leave ANY slack in the pump arm for the shot...i guess i'll try that too smile.gif (i just was afraid of that stumble) now as for the timing mark moving, i thought of that, but have no way to tell, it seems to run pretty good as far as timing is concerned. i'll try pulling that pump arm away a bit and and re-tune...... could this carb just be too big????? i can get a smaller one...... also could there still be a bunch of carbon built up still in the cyls from before i changed the intake gasket??? still causing the dieseling???

The harmonic balancer is very important. If it has slipped your motor will be out of balance and time. There are a couple of ways to check it. On the 454 the 0 % mark should line up with the key way. Another is take #1 plug out and find TDC and check to see if you are on the timing mark on the balancer. The carb could be to big but that has nothing to do with it dieseling. If you bring motor up to temp and carb is not pouring fuel your unspent gas will be gone so it would not cause your problem.

graemlins/hurray.gif i went ahead and was replacing my electric fans with a stock fan/clutch/shroud and just decided to pull the pcv and see if it made a difference... BAMMMM.... no more dieseling.. this motor don't like no stinking PCV dieseled Barely 1 time in 10 shut downs and thats just because i haven't re-adjusted the carb now that it's sucking more air thru it and less thru the vac. port in the manifold

ok, im bringing this back to the top because the dieseling is still there 20% of the time, i really have to clear it out before i shut it down or it will diesel, i've just installed a new holley 830HP and the pcv is still off, i've adjusted it out throttle plates are even, idled down to 650-700 is where it have to leave it,if any higher, it will diesel badly.... i've also bumped the timing down to 14/34 because the fella before said he had it there with no problems... i sealed the intake again with the thicker gaskets and rtv'd around EVERY port so i don't think it could be leaking at all! i have no clue..
if it matters im using a digital adjustable timing light and the msd set-up. could it put me off? also just FYI the 830hp has WAY better throttle response than the 1000 did.