Hey all, I replaced my starter a couple of days ago and although It needs a shim....When the car is hot...lets say if I turn the car off and try immediately to start it again....it struggles to turn over the first couple of time. Any Advice? I have headers by the way.

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"Open headers are like farts, they are only cool if they're yours"

1969 Chevelle Malibu
307 Powerglide 10 bolt
2nd owner
All original with 2 inches of documentation.

It's amazing, after all this time she still runs.

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Could be the old "hot starter syndrome". Try a heat shield between the starter and the header tubes. Thermotec has also got an insulating sleeve to go on the starter.

If that doesn't work....try a remote starter solenoid. I had a hot start problem years ago, put on a remote solenoid...no problems since. If you need help with this as far as parts to get or wiring, let me know I'll help ya.

Buy some new damn cables. Slacker.
Don't make me link back to your previous posts. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

Your loosing a lot of current ability through the bad connections (likely your ground side). Heat makes this more of a problem.

A remote solenoid does not solve the problem. The new cables you buy for the install does.

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yenko check your timing I had the same problem with my chevelle I changed the starter. but no difference then one of the old heads checked the timing and it was too high. cranked right up again.

if you have acsess to a fluke meter check voltage drop at the starter cranking hot and cold, a bad conection or cables could cause your problem a heat shield and remote solinoid are great ideas but you need to find the problem first, two weeks ago when you changed out your starter, what was up? hard starting hot? I would be thinking timing if my cables, starter, con. ext. were in great shape and it only happened hot.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Metalmechanic:
if you have acsess to a fluke meter check voltage drop at the starter cranking hot and cold, a bad conection or cables could cause your problem a heat shield and remote solinoid are great ideas but you need to find the problem first, two weeks ago when you changed out your starter, what was up? hard starting hot? I would be thinking timing if my cables, starter, con. ext. were in great shape and it only happened hot.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


It had a rough time 2 weeks ago when I changed the Distributor.

Your timing is too far advanced. I'd bet money on it. Been there.

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Bob Von Kaenel
70 SS 54k orig miles
My car. (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/barista70front.jpg)
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YENKO,make sure all the following is ok and 99% of all hot starting issues for cevy sml/bb will be cured form my 1st hand experience over the yrs.

* here is the cheap fast short term way out untill you have the time/money to diagnose it,just install a button or toggle switch into your dist pwr wire so you can cut off the ignition pwr just long enough to let the starter get the motor spinning over then release the button to get ignition and WALA your car will fire right up every time.

(Note:just dont spin the car over for too long of a period loading it up a little with the ign pwr cut off as to avoid a bacfire and possible blown muffler,carb pwr valve,etc if you use the above pwr cutoff trick.)

* keep a bucket of cold water in the trunk to dump on your hot starter,this does work in a jam but would not be aqcceptable to me but has been for other people.

NOW FOR THE REAL SOLUTION TO FIXING YOUR HOT START PROBLEM WHILE KEEPING YOUR CAR LOOKING STOCK WITHOUT ANY HIGHTECH SMALL STARTERS,REMOTE SELENOIDS,ETC.

* fresh/new rblt high trq starter with heavy duty high heat selenoid.

(Be carefull,some rblt starters come with the std trq armatures in a high trq casing so beware)

*Have your current new rblt starter checked to see what amps it draws while cranking,if over spec replace it. I have seen many JUNK rblt starters over the yrs so dont think it cant be that,check it to be sure.

* need heat shield for you starter and selenoid because you run headers.

* make sure timing is not over advanced.

* make sure your breaker plate and or vac advance is not sticking in the advance position.

* check/clean all battery & starter
cables/grounds/body strap grounds.

(replace both the poss/neg bat cables if they are very old and brittle/stiff)

* if your neg battery cable is attached to your alt bracket then clean a spot off your block to bare metal and attach it there.

* make sure motor is not running too hot,should be in the 180-200 deg range.

* fresh battery with a minimum of 700 COLD cranking amps (800 cca or above is prefered)

(have your current battery load tested if its rated at above 700 cca to ensure its ok,if its rated below 700cca replace it.)

* if your running a stock 37amp alt upgrade to at least a new/rblt 60 amp or above for quick recharges between starts.

If you are currently running a 61+ amp alt have it checked to make sure its putting out 60 amps,if not replace it.

Note:If any 1,2 or all of the above items are not working correctly togehter as a pkg you will have a hot starting problem so make sure all is well as i have tried to stress here.

It's a must to have a fresh high trq starter,fresh battery 700+ cca,a fresh alt with 61+ amps,and the starter/selenoid heat shield due to headers,if any 1 of these items is weak/overlooked your dead when it comes to hot start problems with the older gm v8's,it's that simple.

But i have always been able to defeat any gm hot start problems following these somewhat expensive/time consuming recommendations so it's really up to you as to what is important.

* on the far side,is your motor rblt? If yes whats your cranking compression? is it high over the 200psi mark which can be sometimes caused by very short cam timing (low intake duration @.05 with wide lobe separation)not bleeding off much comp esp if your running a high comp combo of pistons/haeds. This can also add to a hot start problem too but is less likely to be your root cause at this point.

Let us know what you decide to do and how you make out.

Scott

[This message has been edited by SWHEATON (edited 12-03-2002).]

[This message has been edited by SWHEATON (edited 12-03-2002).]

Hers my 2 cents worth...... for the most part it reiterates what has already been said, but could stand to be mentioned once more. I had a similar problem with my 400 small block in a 1966 Chevy truck with and without headers. I first put in a fresh Die Hard 900 cca battery. That really helped, but it didnt completely solve the problem. Then I decided to try something else. I put on a large ground strap from the block down to the frame. I have never had any more problems. Good Luck. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

As several of ya'll have said Grounds are the key. Clean ones especially. Without going into detail, the way electrons flow the ground is essential. Get good ground cables, the sturdier the better.

It's more than likely a timing issue. Check that before you spend a dime. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif