Got my 70 402 running a week ago after having the heads rebuilt.Got smoke out of the drivers side a few days later.Pulled valve covers off to adjust valves and found a mangled piece of a positive seal laying on top of the head.Would like to get out of pulling the head off if I can.Is it possible?Do you need a special tool for double springs? How much air pressure needed? Wasn't for bad luck I would'nt have no luck at all.On the brighter side it's the drivers side instead the pass. side with air. Thanks Steve

Steve,
The air is not an issue ... take a piece of rope and shove it into the plug hole with the piston up to the top and the valves wont go anywhere. Actually, with most pistons, unless you have a real big dish, you wont even need the rope. I would get one of the valve spring compressors that goes on the rocker stud. Manley has them and they work great. Part number 42131. Next thing is to find out why the seal got busted up ?? Is the spring walking around for some reason ? Is the seal small enough, the 924's have a pretty small id and most rubber seals will not fit with enough room. Maybe the retainer hitting the seal at max lift etc etc.
Hope its not too bad,

A friend of mine told me about the rope.I think the spring has a good fit in the pocket.I wish I would have had the pockets taken down .060 for the lower spring seats.The guides were cut to .625. Bought the viton seals from a motor builder here in town.Don't know who makes them yet.Have a .560 lift cam .How do you measure for clearance.Assumed there would be.Made an ass u me.Never asumme.Sounds like the Manley tool is the ticket.Who makes a viton seal that works with 924'or what diameter do I need to fit in the inner spring? will call Comp cams to see what the say.Did not want to start the disassembly process at all! Thanks for the help.

Guides are machined to .531 not .625.I see the tools in the Jegs catalog.I have a Jegs right the road.Getting the tool tommorrow.

Steve,
I dont think you will find a viton seal that will fit in the 924 spring. You will have to use a teflon one or one of the new "plastic" ones like Pioneer sells. Another option is a metal cased seal. As far as seeing if there is enough room for the lift, take the spring off, reinstall the retainer and keepers and pull them up as hard as you can, then measure the distance between the bottom of thte retainer and the seal.

Steve,
I have some excellent Viton seals that I have been using for about 10 years now.
They are no bigger than the PC's & are a metal encapsulated Viton with a small spring around the valve part.
They look like the seals on a lot of overhead cam stuff & are what Dart is using now in their complete assemblies I believe.
You would need to make a tool to put them on with out of a piece of tubing so you can hammer them on at the metal part.
They make a special tool but it wouldn't be worth it for putting on one set.

email me if you need some.

Let me warn you about the rope trick.I use this trick many times until one time the ski rope I was useing got pinched in the valve and was cut off. I had to remove the head to getthe rope out. graemlins/angry.gif

Somebody around the Boards uses an old sparkplug wire b/c of what you just mentioned!!

Was it you??

pdq67

Originally posted by Bad Rat 414:
Let me warn you about the rope trick.I use this trick many times until one time the ski rope I was useing got pinched in the valve and was cut off. I had to remove the head to getthe rope out. graemlins/angry.gif =
The valve is not supposed to be open when you put the rope in :D
The idea is to bring the piston to TDC, back it off about 20 or 30 degrees, shove the rope in the hole & bring the piston up against it.
When you get done with that cylinder back the crank up & remove the rope.
I use air but this is how the rope (or wire)deal works ;)

This was one of those deals that just happenes. I had to smack the top of the valve retainer to jar it loose, because it was stuck. It had just enough room between the piston and valve to pinch the rope.

Well I've I have more than A valve seal problem.The no. 7 intake lifter is ate up and I haven't cranked it around to see the lobe.But the lifter is an easy 1/16 short and dished on the bottom. Figure the cam is toast as well.I had a magnetic drain plug in there.Going to drain and strain the oil in a day or two. Can I do a cam swap and flush or is it take it out and tear it apart? Anybody know if I can pull the radiator and move the air condensor.And remove the grill to put a new cam in if the motor does'nt need to come apart? Looking for an easy way out.Not going to cut corners that can be hazerdous to my health.

Originally posted by SteveRoehll:
Well I've I have more than A valve seal problem.The no. 7 intake lifter is ate up and I haven't cranked it around to see the lobe.But the lifter is an easy 1/16 short and dished on the bottom. Figure the cam is toast as well.I had a magnetic drain plug in there.Going to drain and strain the oil in a day or two. Can I do a cam swap and flush or is it take it out and tear it apart? Anybody know if I can pull the radiator and move the air condensor.And remove the grill to put a new cam in if the motor does'nt need to come apart? Looking for an easy way out.Not going to cut corners that can be hazerdous to my health. =
Steve,
You have mail ;)

My opinion but do not just flush it & change the cam.
There is going to be crap everywhere & the only way to do it right is to pull the engine & clean everything including pulling the oil galley plugs etc.

On the bright side,,, the springs will be easier to remove with the heads off :D