I'm preparing to pull my 350 and during the bottom end disassembly I ran into a problem. My transmission cooling hoses run right under my starter and therefore are in the way of taking the starter off.

I tried disconnecting them from the transmission, but years of grime and lack of space to get leverage has made it virtually impossible. I have coated them in WD40 and degreaser hoping to loosen them up a bit, but they are very stubborn and will not budge.

So I have a couple of questions for you. Any tips on getting these S.O.B.s loose? Also, would there be any problem with taking the bolts out of the starter, rotating it around, disconnecting all the wires, bolting it back on and removing it with the engine? Or, does anyone have another solution to this predicament?

BTW, I have done a lot of wrenching in the past, but this is my first engine removal, so don't assume that I know anything smile.gif

Thanks,

no problem w/ rotating starter & rebolting, or you could cut the tranny lines and splice back in w/ rubber fuel line..... but these are not my best suggestions.
what ** I ** would do is rid yourself of this problem in the future by going to a fluid power distributor (hydrualics house) and getting lines made that incorporated Q-D's (quick disconnects) in stainless steel, valved (so when they are taken apart, the trans fluid won't leak) with a different o-ring than the standard buna-n (viton maybe, but its kinda expensive and may be more than you need.)
this way, if you remove the motor or trans in the future, or just need to change the starter, you just disconnect them like an air hose..... tip here, if you do that, make sure the male/male or female/female are not both on the rad side or the trans side..... make trans side bottom port female / trans side top port male (etc) or vise-versa
(boy, 2 cents don't buy what it used to eh?)

There is no way on earth I'd use fuel hose to contain trans fluid. ATF is SURPRISINGLY flamable, and you're right next door to the exhaust system.

Summit sells a Q-D setup for cooler tubes. It's about $80.

Cut the tubing, splice it together with brass unions available at any home improvement center for a couple of bucks apiece. Cut one tube, then move down the line a few inches and cut the other tube. That way you cannot mix them up when you put 'em back together.

Don't overtighten the compression fittings, and they'll be re-usable.

Like above, I would either cut them and splice with compression fittings or remove the starter with the engine. By removing the starter with the engine you have no chance of a tranny leak where you cut them but it will be more work up front to remove the wiring. Good luck, Jeff

Find a Snap On, Mac etc., tool vendor and get yourself a 1/2" crowsfoot line wrench. They will break loose very easily using this tool.

Sears might even have them.

A crowfoot will usually just round off the corners of a tight inverted flare nut (unless they make a six point crowfoot maybe and if they do, I want one)
:confused:
If I couldn't get them loose with a six point line wrench, the easiest and best thing to do is like Shurkey said above.

If you remove the trans crossmember and the distributor, you can gently lower the rear of the trans using a floor jack. This should bring the cooler lines far enough into the open to gain adequate access. Use a wrench on both the fitting that threads into the trans and on the cooler line which threads into that fitting.

Originally posted by Dean:
A crowfoot will usually just round off the corners of a tight inverted flare nut (unless they make a six point crowfoot maybe and if they do, I want one)Not 6 point, but 5. (If it was six, there would be no way to get it over the line.)
Yes "crows foot line wrenches" are available through Snap On, Mac, Matco etc. They work great especially where there isn't enough room to use a regular line wrench.

Dean, Hope this link works for you.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?tool=hand&item_ID=2170&group_ID=265&store=snapon-store

Surprised me, they do call them 6 point. That 6th point isn't much though.

Originally posted by Surfcat64:
Dean, Hope this link works for you.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?tool=hand&item_ID=2170&group_ID=265&store=snapon-store

Surprised me, they do call them 6 point. That 6th point isn't much though. I've got the same one in my tool box. Works like a dream. I was going to suggest it, but you beat me to it. Pricey? To some. Worth every penny? Definitely! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Don't use anything but a steel compression fitting if you cut the trans lines. Others can vibrate loose!!!

cut them lines off and replace them
20-30 bucks tops
if the lines won't come loose from being seized or stripped
but the crows foot set is handy in the tool box and normally will loosen tight fittings without stripping (rounding off) them

I would agree that you should consider replacing the lines if they are seized to the point you can't remove them with reasonable effort. They aren't expensive. I've ever cut the lines at or near the fitting and used a 6 point socket to remove the fittings. Have done the same with rusted brake line fittings.

OK, here's what I have decided to do. I'm going to flip the starter and disconnect. Bolt the starter back to the block and remove with the engine. With the engine out and having more room, I will remove the old cooling lines and replace. Thanks for all your help!

One last question. I'd like to use some flexable hose to replace the cooling lines. Aeroquip has some braided hoses that they claim will work with transmission fluid and handle the heat near headers. Anyone use these or something like them? Any other suggestions of what to use?

Thanks guys!

Would give me the willies to run flex lines full of flamable liquid that close to headers.

No basis in fact, just my paranoia.

i ran "2 wire" hydrualic lines w/ Q-D's for 8 years in my 79 trans am w/ headers. the line you're talking about (i am guessing here) is the stainless steel wrapped teflon core hose..... i have used this type of hose for many motorcycles and still have this on my 1994 ZX-11 Kawasaki, so ** I ** wouldn't have any problem using this as long as the line is attached to the frame away from the heat of the headers and so it won't slip down onto the headers....... maybe hard plumb up to the front of the motor, flare the line and hook the Q-D's to that if you feel safer.